Homemade Trac-bars

[Howling]

2" DOM is what I plan on using but it will be .500" wall.

 

[stovepipe]

that would be a better choice!

 

[Howling]

What typ of mount did you use for the frame end?

This is what I plan on using -

 

[Tcolesanti]

I like a full saddle over anything else. I built mine out of 3/8" plate.

Yours has a good design but I like to overbuild everything.

-Tom

 

[Sledpuller]

Yes I see that & if it was a sled puller only that I didn't want to travel it wouldn't be a big deal. But what about a racer or driver? What happens when the rear can't squat due to the bars keeping the springs from growing? !

The bars bend, and /or shove the frame up into the cab.

I prefer a 12"-16" saddle, with sides the whole way to the top of the frame, bolted on. Spread the pressure point out across a larger area of the frame.

I like the shackle idea for street use, but it needs some sort of locking device to pull with(along with suspension stops in a pulling application.)


Also, upgrade the diff u-bolts to 3/4".

 

[AsTroSS]

Check BigBadDodge homepage , he had nice setup :bow:

http://bigbaddodge.com/Suspension.html

 

[stovepipe]

What typ of mount did you use for the frame end?

This is what I plan on using -

I made a two plate one on each side of each frame rail made out of 3/8 and put the heim on the bottom in the middle. the plates are 12" wide and the height of the frame. even made a place to put a safety strap just in case the heim or bolt snaps off.

 

[Howling]

The bars bend, and /or shove the frame up into the cab.

I prefer a 12"-16" saddle, with sides the whole way to the top of the frame, bolted on. Spread the pressure point out across a larger area of the frame.

I like the shackle idea for street use, but it needs some sort of locking device to pull with(along with suspension stops in a pulling application.)


Also, upgrade the diff u-bolts to 3/4".

I will build a bigger saddle to spread the load out then.I would love to bolt it on but with our hydroformed frames it makes it a little bit harder

 

[coon smile]

Material as in everything for the bars and mounts or just the tubing for the bars?

bars and mounts.....

 

[coon smile]

from a structural standpoint...how critical is the number of bolts and bolt/hole spacing when connecting the saddle to the frame?

 

[Tcolesanti]

Here is a pic of my frame saddle, full height of frame rail and built out of 3/8" plate.

http://www.competitiondiesel.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=5616&d=1195320664

-Tom

 

[impmouse]

here some pic of mine i got 200.00 in mine and i welded the front section to the box area..... found the rear axle brkts from dyi 4x4.com ...







they where 40.00 water jeted for the dana 70

 

[impmouse]

few more pics

 

[Papuller86]

i will get pictures of the set up i made i use 3/8 flat stock for the brackets, 7/8 heim joints, heim joint inserts, 2x2" 3/8 wall square stock and and all grade 8 bolts the total cost for the materal came to about 300 (i get the best i could i hate doing things twice) it rides nicer on the highway, but is a little ruffer on the pot hole infested citys, but helps a ton when drag racing also

 

[coon smile]

thanks everyone for the posts and pics...this is really what i needed to get started!

 

[coon smile]

is there any advantage of using heims rather than top links?

 

[JFlagg]

Also, to answer the question earlier, you don't need a link to let the suspension compress, thats what the shackle connected to the leaves is for...

 

[Big A]

I used Pro Comp Traction bars. They work great. Just don't use the u-bolt style to clamp them to the axle tube. They can slip. Here is instructions and hardware specs on the Pro-Comp bars......Good Luck.......

http://www.explorerprocomp.com/PDFs/is/77082.pdf

 

[jktcummins]

If you designed a triangulated set of bars could you get away from with using a pair of poly bushings at the axles and then a heim joint on the frame?????

 

[jktcummins]