how hard to change flexplate 500 miles from home

At least hopefully this will be the first time I fix a trans without French fry size metal pieces to fish out.
 
Ford and Chevy symbols! Confirmed kills!! Had to stop didn't want to cover the whole door LOL
 
Kinda thought that might be what they were. Looks like how the fighter pilots display their kills. Cool.
 
Got all the parts and oil and filter and food and energy drinks. Heading out to begin as soon as I find my greasy jeans.
 
In case these help you, here it is, I'm pulling from memory so don't yell at me if I'm wrong on one or two.

Rear Drive shaft bolts. (4bolts)15mm
Crossmember bolts/nuts (4 of ea) 23mm and 18mm
Trans mount to crossmember nuts (2nuts) 15mm
Front driveshaft to tcase (4bolts) 16mm
Front driveshaft to pinion (4bolts) t40
Transmission mount to transmission (4bolts) 16mm
TV cable bracket to transmission (1bolt) 14mm(9/16")
Tcase to transmission nuts (6nuts) 14mm(9/16")
Tcase linkage arm to tcase (1nut) 14mm(9/16")
Torque converter bolt inspection cover plate (2bolts) 10mm
Torque converter bolts (6bolts) 16mm
Bellhousing bolts (8 bolts) 14mm(9/16")
Flexplate bolts (8bolts) 18mm (loctite and 95ft lbs)
Transmission lines 15/16" for the fitting and 3/4" for the line

My recommendation is to just pull the whole thing out, dissasembling in this order start with rear driveshaft, crossmember, front driveshaft, transmission mount, tcase linkage/wiring, tcase, transmission linkage, torque converter bolts, transmission lines, bellhousing bolts. Two guys should have no problem getting it on the ground in two hrs. Then when reinstalling, fill the trans with a 6 qt, start truck running in neutral and fill to correct level.

Lavon
 
It's 36* out here and the front drive line won't come off. Been prying and tapping. Almost have the cross member off to tap harder. Broke my t40 bit on the front diff flange and one of the bolts was already stripped. I like working on my trucks, but its amazing how it never goes as planned.
 
Just leave the front shaft attached at the differential and seperate at the transfer case.
 
Howling said:
Just leave the front shaft attached at the differential and seperate at the transfer case.
Click to expand...

Yes and just tie it out of the way against the frame.
Click to expand...

Both accomplished. Had to take a food break and a hot shower to warm up. I'm amazed at how much I had to hammer and pry to get the front shaft to break free.

Almost all the bolts so far had Loctite on them, do I need to Loctite everything when I go back together. On my 97, only Loctite is flywheel to crank bolts, pressure plate to flywheel bolts, and timing housing and cover bolts.
 
Found pieces of what looks like a shim in the pan. It has rounded edges. Flat side is bout 1/4", on edge bout 1/16". Got 4 pieces total, one bout 1/4" long, one bout 3/4" long, one bout 1-1/2" long, one bout 4-5" long. My luck it's a $2500 piece of the flux capacitor that must be immediately changed or its instant trans death. Can't get my phone to upload pics. Emailed them to Adam at FirePunk for assistance.
 
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