How much power will a stock 47rh hold... (not what you are thinking)

ENGINE and SEAT......I like it. 60 psi fuel'd should be more than enough to gut that trans if you could hook it, like at 80mph....LOL
 
We were all surprised it scaled out as heavy as it did for as you said "an engine and a seat", we were thinking it would be more like 2500lbs, but that body is like 10 gauge steel.

500hp is going to be nucking futs. According to the compd calculator even with 350hp it should trap 120mph. I have no real way to judge how much power it is making as it is total sensory overload when riding in it, but with these 7x0.010's I think we should be into that 350hp - 400hp range.
 
That's sweet! I have wanted to build one like this for a few years
 
dvst8r said:
We were all surprised it scaled out as heavy as it did for as you said "an engine and a seat", we were thinking it would be more like 2500lbs, but that body is like 10 gauge steel.

500hp is going to be nucking futs. According to the compd calculator even with 350hp it should trap 120mph. I have no real way to judge how much power it is making as it is total sensory overload when riding in it, but with these 7x0.010's I think we should be into that 350hp - 400hp range.
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What did the scale say?

Looks like a blast to drive.. I can imagine the looks yall get. :Cheer:
 
If it weighs 3000 lbs, it needs more power!!!

When it can spin aired-down BFG all terrains at 100 MPH, that's when you've got a true rocket - death trap!!!

In all seriousness, it sounds like it's about perfect as far as power to weight ratio for a fun toy that you're not temped to turn into a full-blown race vehicle.
 
Yeah it is good now, but knowing how the owner is, once the trans gets built, he will want more.

I'm sure we can squeeze another ~100hp out of it, without going to bigger injectors again. Just using a mack plug (already has just needs to be installed), comp dv's, afc mods, and racking the barrels. Probably will bump the timing up a bit more as well since it only drives in the summer, and lives in a heated garage.
 
Would you have to readjust the band if you put in the stronger strut? Or what would you have to take apart? besides the taking the valve body out.
 
You have to loosen the band to get the strut. You'll understand once you get the valvebody dropped. Readjust with new piece installed.
 
Dyno'd just under 600hp, with some other mods, and then we took it further. It is getting a lift pump to help the stock lift pump as we have reached the point where fuel pressure drops off on a wot run.

The converter now slips if locked up under wot, other then that with a little extra line pressure, knock on wood it has been holding fine. With that being said it gets cruised around more then raced.

Unfortunately still lots of snow here, so it will be another at least 3 months before it sees the light of day again.

Oh and when the owner took Torrey for a ride, they got a case of death wobble at wot 3rd gear, Torrey likes the race truck as it is much less violent.
 
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Stock convertor? Check the guys down in Ga. for a rebuilt one, really reasonable and good convertors. You really don't want to slip it much and send crap into the rest of the trans.

That's a neat ride, looks like a death trap just setting still. Can you put ejector seats in it?
How much power will the Jag rearend take?
 
Jag rear end is hating life. I destroyed one behind a 377 SBC. As long as it doesnt hook it might live awhile.
 
dvst8r said:
We were all surprised it scaled out as heavy as it did for as you said "an engine and a seat", we were thinking it would be more like 2500lbs, but that body is like 10 gauge steel.

500hp is going to be nucking futs. According to the compd calculator even with 350hp it should trap 120mph. I have no real way to judge how much power it is making as it is total sensory overload when riding in it, but with these 7x0.010's I think we should be into that 350hp - 400hp range.
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dvst8r said:
Dyno'd just under 600hp, with some other mods, and then we took it further. It is getting a lift pump to help the stock lift pump as we have reached the point where fuel pressure drops off on a wot run.

The converter now slips if locked up under wot, other then that with a little extra line pressure, knock on wood it has been holding fine. With that being said it gets cruised around more then raced.

Unfortunately still lots of snow here, so it will be another at least 3 months before it sees the light of day again.

Oh and when the owner took Torrey for a ride, they got a case of death wobble at wot 3rd gear, Torrey likes the race truck as it is much less violent.
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Was gonna say, I dyno'd 425/1017 with 7x.010s on a non racked, non mack plugged, shimmed governor spring 160 pump with a single 60mm charger and more then likely a bad HG... that's a pretty decent number, what else did you guys do to that beast to get there?
 
BlackSkyRacing said:
Was gonna say, I dyno'd 425/1017 with 7x.010s on a non racked, non mack plugged, shimmed governor spring 160 pump with a single 60mm charger and more then likely a bad HG... that's a pretty decent number, what else did you guys do to that beast to get there?
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Dyno'd with 7x.014's, mack plug, 4k gov springs, ~25degrees timing iirc, and obviously it is running twins. It makes close to 90psi converter locked in od.

After it dyno'd we racked the barrels, modded the afc for full travel, and changed out the spring to better suit the twins, and are now adding an electric lift pump.

We have been joking about adding a nice small shot :nos: for the next time it dyno's, but he is building another car (not diesel this time) so he is not sure when he will get around to pulling the trans on this one and getting a converter and some trans work.

He walked a lambo from a hiway roll (that 2.88 jag rear end makes it a hiway monster) the guy in the lambo followed him until he stopped at a gas station and talked to him for over an hour. :lolly:
 
dvst8r said:
Dyno'd with 7x.014's, mack plug, 4k gov springs, ~25degrees timing iirc, and obviously it is running twins. It makes close to 90psi converter locked in od.

After it dyno'd we racked the barrels, modded the afc for full travel, and changed out the spring to better suit the twins, and are now adding an electric lift pump.

We have been joking about adding a nice small shot :nos: for the next time it dyno's, but he is building another car (not diesel this time) so he is not sure when he will get around to pulling the trans on this one and getting a converter and some trans work.

He walked a lambo from a hiway roll (that 2.88 jag rear end makes it a hiway monster) the guy in the lambo followed him until he stopped at a gas station and talked to him for over an hour. :lolly:
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Wow, seems the 40 might need some help with gating a little more... 90psi? how were EGTs? How does it act with those larger hone 7 holes and boost btw? I know my 7x.010s noticeably nosed over when boost went past 50psi on my compounds.

x2 on the recommendation not to slip the converter clutch much. Not only does it make massive amounts of heat, but also debris and particles get sent through the trans and especially seems to stick in the coolers.
 
BlackSkyRacing said:
Wow, seems the 40 might need some help with gating a little more... 90psi? how were EGTs? How does it act with those larger hone 7 holes and boost btw? I know my 7x.010s noticeably nosed over when boost went past 50psi on my compounds.

x2 on the recommendation not to slip the converter clutch much. Not only does it make massive amounts of heat, but also debris and particles get sent through the trans and especially seems to stick in the coolers.
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No gate on either turbo, it is an is what it is setup. Egt's bury the 1600 degree pyro. When he built it in his mind it was going to stay pretty stock, he just put the twins on for the look to start. Then we met, and he let me start tweaking, and and well here it is.

7x14's are okay, I still prefer 5 hole injectors, these ones don't ever feel like they lay over, but still feel "soft" for as big of an injector as they are.
 
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