how to reduce crank case pressure

So let's say, my truck (6.7) with factory CCV atmosphere dumping after the giant expensive CCV filter, constantly gets service soon indicator flashing overhead after I mat it (60+lbs boost), even after recently replacing CCV filter. I'm assuming crank case pressure is an issue for me and i'm saturating the filter too quickly

I'm thinking of replacing the filter, ONCE AGAIN, adding one of these catch cans and tapping into my tappet cover/spacer and venting from there. Should I utilize the other inlet on the can and vent from elsewhere as well? I've seen timing cover, is positive pressure an issue there in a CR? Thanks fellas
 
I dont think you would want to run your blow-by back into the intake like on a gasser. Being that a diesel engine will run on oil alone, there is oil vapor in the blow-by, which in extreme cases could cause the engine to run odd. Not to mention you would probably create more CCP since the intake is going to have charged air in it from the turbo. I have scene several guys that run a vent from the valve cover and weld a steel pipe in the downpipe at a severe angle which creates a vaccum as the exhaust rushes by.
 
MFsterling said:
I dont think you would want to run your blow-by back into the intake like on a gasser. Being that a diesel engine will run on oil alone, there is oil vapor in the blow-by, which in extreme cases could cause the engine to run odd. Not to mention you would probably create more CCP since the intake is going to have charged air in it from the turbo. I have scene several guys that run a vent from the valve cover and weld a steel pipe in the downpipe at a severe angle which creates a vaccum as the exhaust rushes by.
Click to expand...

I plan to make this change to mine this winter. Running a vent from the valve cover to the down pipe welding the bung in on a angle which make a vacum. I talked to Dustin & Brady @ Industrial Injection back in Oct when i was out taking the EFI Live class in they see no reason why it will not work. You will still have one small vent from the side the block that tap's in to the valve cover but you will have a larger one run to the down pipe with a bung on a angle. Im running a 1 inch inside dia. line off the side the engine now to the ground to vent in it gets oil on from diff in control arm from time to time. Dont like the clean up.
 
I have two breathers on top of valve cover, and the billet tappet cover has two lines going to catch can on frame
 
Not liking the crankcase vapor smell at idle I added a filter/separator from tractor supply that was previously used on my VW/TDi and routed it back to the intake pipe,10,000 miles later I was pulling the primary turbo to port the waste gate only to find a nasty black/oily coating in both turbos and piping, I would unscrew the separator base and check for oil anytime I was under the truck and there was never any liquid to remove. I cleaned both turbos and piping and removed the vent line to the intake track and routed it back near the tranny. I would like to try the venturi pipe in the exhaust but with my remote mount exhaust brake the pipe would be rather long and could for see condensation problems in extreme cold but I would like to try it.
I recommend not venting to the intake.
 
That's exactly why guys with powerstrokes do a CCV mod.

Garrett

Probably getting paid at work to post this from my D1
 
n501741169_1346736_2249.jpg

Here is how i reduced my CCP much like "MFsterling" said. Seemed to work really well.

You can see i vented my valve cover and ran hose over to a tube welded at a sharp angle in my downpipe. Creating a vacuum.[/QUOTE]
 
This is really nothing new: Reher and Morrison tested this way back in the 80's when the dinosaurs roamed the earth, pull a negative pressure on the crankcase and loosen the ring gaps up and the motor will spin better. You can either go to an electric evac motor or use a belt drive like a real race car uses, might research an electric, it was on some factory Ford cars in the 80's if my memory is correct.....ricers use them.

Jim
 
baprewitt said:
n501741169_1346736_2249.jpg

Here is how i reduced my CCP much like "MFsterling" said. Seemed to work really well.

You can see i vented my valve cover and ran hose over to a tube welded at a sharp angle in my downpipe. Creating a vacuum.
Click to expand...
[/QUOTE]

I have the same setup on my truck. After I put the p-pump on and started spinning some rpm's I had to do something with the vents because I was puking so much oil. It seems to work pretty well until the check valves go out. I dont know if its because of the heat from the downpipe or all the oil going through them. Im probably going to end up welding another pipe into the downpipe and running two hoses from the valve cover.
 
ive always thought vacuum pumps were to seal looser piston rings. if your having excessive crank case pressure and running stock(ish) boost your breather filters clogged. but at higher boost you definately need more ventalation. as far as the vent filters go on street engines ive seen them get saturated with oil and makes a huge mess. but they look sweet
 
I bought a E-Vac Scavenger Kit from
Verocious Motor Sports. Will I need some type
of check valve in the line.
Look under 02 Rings & Weld Bungs.
 
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