Humor me... Aluminum rods 'n' piston weight.

Name of the thread-
Humor me... Aluminum rods 'n' piston weight.

atleast we are keeping the humor part goin!
 
Stop already. I'm trying to watch this one and my sarcasm filter keeps clogging up. Can i just pay for the info?
Sure! $500 and I'll give you all the clues I'm running in my program.
 
Bean, bite your lip. Im tired of your mouth. I know your being a smart a** You have a problem with my answers, fine, dont read them.

I have spent a lot of time and money developing things for these engines that you have no idea about, i have brought to market stuff for the 6.7 and 5.9 and duramax, that no one else has!

My carnage list is smaller than your pecker!

Apparently your not as sharp as you think you are. other wise you would have known a stock unballanced/unimprovised assy would come apart at 5k, but with a little thought it would not have.

I know what it takes to make these CR engines work well and last, so dont down play what i know.


What have you done to help the progression of anything mechanicle?

Dont even bring up how you blew up several engines with the stand alone cause you have no clue!

Trust me i'll run circles around you!
So what do you know? Help me here. How light should these pistons be? How thin can I run on the skirt? How low can I set the ring land? What's the factory compression height? How much should changing the stroke be reflected in compression height? How thick should the deck be?
 
So what do you know? Help me here. How light should these pistons be? How thin can I run on the skirt? How low can I set the ring land? What's the factory compression height? How much should changing the stroke be reflected in compression height? How thick should the deck be?

I've had pistons built, that are 1060 grams and thats a 4.125 bore, stock 4.020 would be less, according to my calculations they will turn 6k+

The wrist pins i had made are 500 grams, while stock is 638(5.9) they should also go to 6k with out issue.

you will have to grind the crank down(journal) to get a aluminum rod big enough not to break and it has to clear the cam and block , but the rod will have to be longer to compensate for the destroked config, or you change the compression hight on the piston.


knocking all this weight out of the assy, makes the crank much happy er and it will ahndle more power, been there, done it, i know it works!

Now with the destroked crank and above options you have every advantage possible.

i tried to help with this post above.....

Now if you want every minute detail, i'll just build you a motor, i've worked to hard to just give away what i've learned for free.
 
wade seriously, why do you post if you arent going to help a fellow member in need. if you arent going ot put it in the open at least pm him. you wonder why people question what you do, it is bc of posts like that. even the great cam designers are posting their grinds or talking about them one on one. the wheel has been invented already, years ago.
 
wade seriously, why do you post if you arent going to help a fellow member in need. if you arent going ot put it in the open at least pm him. you wonder why people question what you do, it is bc of posts like that. even the great cam designers are posting their grinds or talking about them one on one. the wheel has been invented already, years ago.

x2....
 
wade seriously, why do you post if you arent going to help a fellow member in need. if you arent going ot put it in the open at least pm him. you wonder why people question what you do, it is bc of posts like that. even the great cam designers are posting their grinds or talking about them one on one. the wheel has been invented already, years ago.

Why is it that because someone starts a thread on the internet, that it is expected for those that have spent a great deal of their own time and money figuring things out, to all of a sudden spill the beans? Do you understand how the performance aftermarket shops make money to keep the lights on?
I'm all for giving advise and sharing common knowledge to beginners, but the questions being asked here I don't believe most answer freely.
 
Why is it that because someone starts a thread on the internet, that it is expected for those that have spent a great deal of their own time and money figuring things out, to all of a sudden spill the beans? Do you understand how the performance aftermarket shops make money to keep the lights on?
I'm all for giving advise and sharing common knowledge to beginners, but the questions being asked here I don't believe most answer freely.

Completely agree that's why they should just keep their mouths shut, instead of the normal " I have brought to life and invented more than you can ever understand".
 
Brandon,

Piston compression height is 2.820" from wrist pin C/L to top of piston.
thats where i start and trim down form there depending on deck height. hope thats helps.
 
Completely agree that's why they should just keep their mouths shut, instead of the normal " I have brought to life and invented more than you can ever understand".

Maybe i should have worded my response differently, that is more along the lines i was thinking which is exactly why i suggested hints or direction through pm!
 
Brandon,

Piston compression height is 2.820" from wrist pin C/L to top of piston.
thats where i start and trim down form there depending on deck height. hope thats helps.

Now that is help and direction to start from. guess leaking that secret wont cause him to turn his lights off.
 
Completely agree that's why they should just keep their mouths shut, instead of the normal " I have brought to life and invented more than you can ever understand".

Thats exactly why folks from schied and haisley and many others will not ever post any tech on here and im not far from that stage , because most of you guys cant desifer what they ask for. They ask for a inch and expect a mile....:bang

He asked for a starting point, i posted several things, then since it was obviously overlooked others posted they wanted more, and more, and more.....When will it end, once you have built them a engine for free?

i mean obvously he wasent to serious because of the title, that and he knows who has been building and R&Ding alumium diesel engines for the last 2.5+ years. i accually have one running and making passes, dont you think i would know a little about the subject.

Fact is if you have done stuff that no one else has done and brought to market those products, and some prick diesel shop owner, challenges your intelligence, because there jealous, you have a right to defend youself however you want, and if it includes reminding him or them in one post what you have done, so be it.

People get paid for there knowledge, Glenn hit it on the money!
 
Now that is help and direction to start from. guess leaking that secret wont cause him to turn his lights off.

i think thats stock CH, nothing a pair of calipers couldent show you. along with a calculator.

here's how to measure.

take wrist pin size 1.575 divide by 2 = 0.7875

measure top of piston to top of wrist pin hole, keep it as straight as possible

you should get 2.0325 the add the half of the wrist pin diam 0.7875+2.0325 and you have CH 2.820.
 
wade that last post was slick, i was wondering myself for personal curiousity. i do not build performance diesel engines nor have i ever claimed to, but i was curious as to what was envolved. you could have put fake numbers or symbols in the equation for all i care, thanks for shedding some light.
 
Aluminum rods....isn't the next logical step throwing alcohol in the tank and some spark plugs......
 
Now that is help and direction to start from. guess leaking that secret wont cause him to turn his lights off.
It means I write a check to Josh this fall for the block machine work and spend the winter picking his brain. Which reminds me, I did forget to call him before I started this thread.

Wade, thank you for sharing info. I will need pistons for this build and I don't mind paying for the R&D info you've done so far.
 
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