I think I killed my DTT 47RE

Word of advice to the DIY crew, spec all of the plates you take out. The pressure and reaction plate for my forward clutch group are machined. To begin with, I forgot to order a reaction plate, so that set me back. FP sent me a pressure plate with the kit at my request, but I didn't catch that mine was machined. I also forgot to order the thrust washers for the 48re planetaries. I'm hoping I can pull a couple of late nights this week and button things up.

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The billet output shaft didn't want to drop in to the OD direct drum assembly. A couple of minutes in the parts washer and the drum was nice and fat. The shat dropped right in.
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I took my stock intermediate shaft and severed it with a plasma cutter to make an alignment tool. I dropped it into the overrunning clutch just to make sure to was doing it's one-way thing.
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Assembling the (direct?) overdrive clutch pack.
A press, two 8mm snap-on sockets and one 9mm and a plate are enough to compress the spring for this pack. I didn't take a picture, but for some reason the previous transmission build has the waved snap ring that's marked as gas only. Putting this back in made the clutch stack too tall to insert the wire ring that retains the clutch group. I didn't measure the plates that came out to try and explain the difference in stack height.
Also, lubricate the surfaces of the alignment tool so that It can be removed more easily. I didn't take the time to weld a tab to it, but I don't know that it would have helped any more than the lube does.
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I checked the pocket depth on the bushing in the direct drum and then replaced it with a bushing driver. I assembled it and checked clearance with a dial indicator.
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Who's specs are you going off of for your clutch pack clearances? .100 seems like a lot to me for the direct but it's been a couple years since I did mine so I could be wrong
 
Who's specs are you going off of for your clutch pack clearances? .100 seems like a lot to me for the direct but it's been a couple years since I did mine so I could be wrong
Well. I see the error in this. It didn't have the waved snap ring.
ATSG states to check between the Ridge of the ring and the plate.
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I just don't want you chasing your tail on a 2-3 bind up like I did. Certain servo/valve body setups like certain clutch pack clearances otherwise you'll get funky shifts/bindups. Most builders remove the wave snap rings and use the standard ones for durability I beleive. Same in the od unit.
 
I do know it's a quick way to get a firmer shift. I'm being told to drop the clearance to between 0.070 and 0.080. I will be trying to get a thicker snap ring put in.

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I'm currently searching for this,but if anyone has the thread talking about welding the planetary housings,I would like to read it.


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I do know it's a quick way to get a firmer shift. I'm being told to drop the clearance to between 0.070 and 0.080. I will be trying to get a thicker snap ring put in.

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After looking back at my notes that sounds right, Dave goerend told me 070-085. I set mine at .060 not knowing and had the bind up on the 2-3.
 
How many clutches you putting in the direct buggy? .015 percclutch. Also I run a dual spring 2nd gear servo. That will make the 2 to 3 cleaner with less bind. 155 line pressure.
 
Stock clutch count in direct clutch group. Does have aftermarket piston and all of the springs.


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Firepunk Engineering care packages are the largest, most bestest packages.
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6 in OD I believe.
It's assembled. All of the clearances are where they need to be.
I had no idea there's a picture of the thrusts in the back of the atsg manual. That's what I get for not reading it first. Would have saved a few minutes.
I had to bend the tab on the fixed TV kit to clear the 48RE/Ford shift cable.
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No, I used selective washers and one mickey mouse. That's what it had in it before.
The question you ask make me second guess myself.

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