Looking for a good chassis ...

Back before I found my Nova, there was a 72 C10 backhalf truck for sale for $9500 as a roller. If I were you, I'd look for something like that.
 
Have a 79 F150 w/ art Morrison back half , tubbed , 14 pt. cromemoly cage ,lowered front with limit staps , 33x10.5x15 slicks , 460w/ c6 trans 1/4 stick shifter,& trans brake. Pm your number if interested. Located in southeastern Illinois. Runs nice and straight. $9500. Thanks, Jim
 
Frmdsl said:
Have a 79 F150 w/ art Morrison back half , tubbed , 14 pt. cromemoly cage ,lowered front with limit staps , 33x10.5x15 slicks , 460w/ c6 trans 1/4 stick shifter,& trans brake. Pm your number if interested. Located in southeastern Illinois. Runs nice and straight. $9500. Thanks, Jim
Click to expand...

Just curious, whats your best numbers with the 460?
 
RacinDuallie said:
Building a tube chassis gives you the options of where the front spindle to engine setback dimensions. Also placement of extra bracing for hi torque output engine. That's the route I went- we designed mine on paper first- starting with a clean sheet. I also had researched aerodynamic testing results altering the negative air drag at the cowl, and took full advantage of the results which involved cowl and hood modifications. I can put anyone in touch with the chassis guy who holds the copies of my chassis prints- I have copies off the master. He now runs R2B2 Race Cars- expect to pay TOP DOLLAR if you go the ground up route- I speak from that experience. I'm in @ over 80K and still need the damned transmission and some odds and ends. But Life comes first so I have to wait patiently to purchase each part for it. In the meantime I have a badasss Pro Mod Diesel waiting to be unleashed.

That and also keep in mind them ex-Pro Stockers were built for aluminum small block gassers- not inline diesels -so expect some major chassis mods for proper fitment along with tinwork mods.
Click to expand...

I agree wholeheartedly about the chassis and the flexibility in placement when designing from scratch. With the weight of the diesel an ex Pro-Stock gasser truck or a conventional Top-Sportsman style truck chassis will have a ton of front end weight. I am hoping mine works well after all the work to do it! I did not realize just how many hours are taken up with painstakingly fitting every one of these tubes. The chassis I built myself before (rebuilding a crashed back-half car into a full tube chassis 2x3 framed car) had waaaay fewer tubes to have to deal with and many just needed an angle cut to land on the main frame rails (much less notching and fitting).

I didn't know about the work you did on aerodynamics, that is great! I thought about doing some mods to the body on mine as well as some research like you did, but figured I can always do that later once the thing is done and on the track. In the meantime I am just trying to keep it as low as possible.

Frmdsl said:
Only run 1/8 so far. Best time is 7.18 with a 1.36 60 ft.
Click to expand...

That's either a really quick 60' time for the ET, or a really slow ET for the 60' ! Most cars I see with that type of 60' are more like 6.30's in the 1/8-mile.
 
Your right about 60 ft. to ET, been 35 years since any serious racing. Only made 6 passes in truck. ET should come down with less driver error. Changing from 7800 # to 3500 # is a big change. Bought truck last December intending to transplant the 7.3 from my pulling truck. Seller had swapped the 514 w/nitrous in it with 460 from his mud truck, and said it would cut a 1.3 60 ft., thought that showed it was set -up right. The 7.3 couldn't compete in the 2.6 class been doing some racing and got the bug back. For a little self promotion, pg. 46 in new Diesel Power has nice pic and short article on truck.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top