Making The Truck Hook Harder

Sandracer799 said:
Just a lil maybe:aiwebs_004:

But having personally seen your truck pull, you have wheel speed. I think you need to get some weight in your truck and you will be up there with the rest of us, if not passed us.
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Yeah you are putting some power down... LOL
 
RS, do you have any video clips? It will pull better with the blocks and bars installed.. And you will be happier with the bigger injectors.. Do you still have the 3.07's in the rear? Once you get the weight up, if there are 2nd or 3rd gens pulling with you remember the differance in the gear ratio of the 205.. especially if you have the 3.07's in.. Are you shifting into second, in low range?
 
I would have to agree about adding weight. you need to get as much weight as far forward as possible. You are at a disadvantage like me running a regular cab truck. I know that haning weight out front helps me keep up with the big dogs here in ohio. I would say you are going to want the traction bars especially if you start transfering a bunch of weight as you go further down the track. I also know that I have had better luck with higher air pressure in the rear tires but I'm running a dually also. I also think getting a locker or something like that in the front end will help you also if rules allow of course.
 
Well before I start geting the truck to hook again I need to get it running again... Puked the head gasket this morning screwing around oh well... I guess 50+ psi on a stock 300,000 mile gasket is a little to much even with a re-torque. LOL

Gonna get a new gasket and studs on the way.
 
:nos::nos::nos::nos::nos:

do that and you will make up the 20 feet......no problem......





i know im dragging my feet withmy truck but i should get it done, just sucks i cant play with it.....
 
Just studied the pic of your truck and it looks like it's hooked pretty good in that pic. Look at the gap between the cab and bed, that's a sign of hooked. Also i notice that the truck is high in the front (will be worse with TQ bars). That means when the front raises the back goes down...hitch goes down and your loosing hitch hight. Put some adjustable stops on the front axle to the frame. Set them so your riding about level front to back in the pits,(when you add all this weight to the front half of the truck it will be low in the front)especially when they measure your hitch hight, but when you hook to the sled the front end will come off the stop's about 1/2 inch to an inch. This would be a pain if you drive the truck, but if it's a puller this will help your truck hook better!
 
brushpuller said:
Just studied the pic of your truck and it looks like it's hooked pretty good in that pic. Look at the gap between the cab and bed, that's a sign of hooked. Also i notice that the truck is high in the front (will be worse with TQ bars). That means when the front raises the back goes down...hitch goes down and your loosing hitch hight. Put some adjustable stops on the front axle to the frame. Set them so your riding about level front to back in the pits,(when you add all this weight to the front half of the truck it will be low in the front)especially when they measure your hitch hight, but when you hook to the sled the front end will come off the stop's about 1/2 inch to an inch. This would be a pain if you drive the truck, but if it's a puller this will help your truck hook better!
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The bed is misleading, it has a dump bed on it so it sits back about 2-3 inches from stock.

PC190142-1.jpg
 
another easy way to get some weight up front get a snow plow mount like a boss mount that has the open tubing across the front fill it full of lead and theres at least 200 plus u could have about as far out front as u can get without a weight bracket
 
The pull looked good.. nice and smooth.. but without the blocks the hitch dropped.. I think you're on the right track.. get the injectors in.. (& the HG) blocks, and rear bars in.. If you get up to the weight limit, and if you don't have the HP.. you may have to drop your hitch height some... You might have to look into a front set of bars too.. (Watch what some of the more modified gassers are doing on the front, because your front is more like theirs than most of the other diesels... )

The running joke around here, about no hanging weights.. or no front weights is to build a custom front bumper, brush guard, winch mount, light bar, air tank.. you name it.. just as long as its heavy.. haha.. (or make it hollow, and add lead..)
 
It has blacks in the rear, 1" travel. I think after I get down with teh HG, New Injectors, and studs, I'm gonna get some rear bars and clamp the front springs. looking at the video I'm also thinking I should have held it in 1nd instead of shifting to third and teh back down at the end.
 
I think you made the right decision by shifting up... You need to be able to hold that gear.. with the added weight.. What gears do you have.. We usually pull in 3rd with the NV4500, 205 & 3.55's.. about the same ratio as second if you have the 3.55's.. And we can't always hack the gear.. but normally enough to finish good.. & we're probably making a little more HP..

I don't think anyone has put the 3.07 gears in the chart..
http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/dev/showthread.php?t=161352
 
JDGnut said:
I think you made the right decision by shifting up... You need to be able to hold that gear.. with the added weight.. What gears do you have.. We usually pull in 3rd with the NV4500, 205 & 3.55's.. about the same ratio as second if you have the 3.55's.. And we can't always hack the gear.. but normally enough to finish good.. & we're probably making a little more HP..

I don't think anyone has put the 3.07 gears in the chart..
http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/dev/showthread.php?t=161352
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3.07 Gears, NP205,

2nd low I pull around 26mph wheel speed at 3,300 RPM
 
3rd low I'm not sure on my wheel speed but its probably around 30 at the RPM's i was pulling.
 
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