manual trans

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Diesel92

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I've been reading up on nv4500 nv5600 zf6 and zf5 they all seem to not like a lot of power even when built to hell and back. So does anyone have a good manual trans they would recommend other then them 4. I was looking at spicers but that's a lot of weight.
 
You need to look again...

The nv4500 and nv5600 handle A LOT; the 6 speed more so than 5 speed... but there are very strong trucks using those transmissions... 800hp + all day



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Dont try and shift them like a sports car and they last pretty well.
 
Penni said:
You need to look again...

The nv4500 and nv5600 handle A LOT; the 6 speed more so than 5 speed... but there are very strong trucks using those transmissions... 800hp + all day



Sent from phone
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I would tend to disagree. Not saying there aren't some that have held 800HP, but no all of them and not all day and not hard launchs etc. NV5600 sucks in my opinion, I would have rather had a NV4500.
 
I know of at least 5 or 6 trucks over 800 running 5 speed or 6 speed with no work done internally, minus inch 3/8 input upgrade on the 5 speed obviously....

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I loved the G56 in my 07. I hauled 3 cars around for two years and almost 200k without a single issue save for the stock clutch.

I've heard horror stories about the 5600, but some seem to hold up well.

The 4500s lose 5th gear. If you go that route; you probably want to fix 5th and while you're in there just rebuild it because the syncros wear out. I was told/read only to use the correct fluid or they will wear out again. Mine has been holding up for 3 years in my 2nd gen after rebuild and 5th gear fix. The parts are cheap and they are simple to rebuild. I did mine in my driveway.
 
if you dont need OD the T19 is a good unit ... new input and ur ready to go ...... and you can knock the snot out of it as often as your heart desires ....... or the ol sm465 .. chevys had these for years .... input and a beefed up input bearing and your off th beat the sh&% out of it every day ........ kicked min in the teeth everytime i hit the mud and rocks ..... 500HP and big arse tires ..... never 1 failure ....... maybe I will get ont with a GV OD ...... ???????
 
I went through 6 or 7 NV4500s, a couple really of them were nothing but scrap metal in the bottom of the case. Average life was avout 100k. Only moderate power 313/752 on the dyno. I have over 250k on my G56 and it is still quiet as a mouse.
 
You have to be careful when buying used or rebuilding the nv4500 because of the shaft end play. It must be within spec or you will tear it up. It will also make the trans loud indicating to you there is a problem. There is a ton of reading about where within the spec is best. I've read where people take them out just to redo the end play because they have a little noise.
 
go NV4500, when it breaks it is much cheaper to fix then the other 2.
 
4x4manonbroke said:
if you dont need OD the T19 is a good unit ... new input and ur ready to go ...... and you can knock the snot out of it as often as your heart desires ....... or the ol sm465 .. chevys had these for years .... input and a beefed up input bearing and your off th beat the sh&% out of it every day ........ kicked min in the teeth everytime i hit the mud and rocks ..... 500HP and big arse tires ..... never 1 failure ....... maybe I will get ont with a GV OD ...... ???????
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Lol. I broke 3 465's with a stockish 350. They won't take anywhere near the power a 4500 or any of the 6 speeds will.

Ive been considering a zf6 for my Dodge, I like the way they shift better than a 5600 and they seem to be tough. I just don't think its worth buying the adapters and everything to make it work. My 4500 has taken abuse and only spit out one stock input with 600hp and a 66 single, I just don't like the 3-4 jump towing with 35's and 3.55's.

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chevota84 said:
Lol. I broke 3 465's with a stockish 350. They won't take anywhere near the power a 4500 or any of the 6 speeds will.

Ive been considering a zf6 for my Dodge, I like the way they shift better than a 5600 and they seem to be tough. I just don't think its worth buying the adapters and everything to make it work. My 4500 has taken abuse and only spit out one stock input with 600hp and a 66 single, I just don't like the 3-4 jump towing with 35's and 3.55's.

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I have herd of breaking the stock 10 spline input ... they make a .... i think its a 26 spline input ..... cant remember anymore .... but nice job anyways :clap:
 
There is a G56 with a cracked bell housing near Nashville for $2000 with a relined SB dd clutch. I was thinking about it, but I'm not too fond of welding cast anything. Then there's the question of how it cracked.
 
A good welder should not have any issues with repairing it ..... as long as its not in the bearing retainer area ... can be trickey to weld and make it acvept the bearing with out tension on bearing/bearing cone
 
hydroshok said:
There is a G56 with a cracked bell housing near Nashville for $2000 with a relined SB dd clutch. I was thinking about it, but I'm not too fond of welding cast anything. Then there's the question of how it cracked.
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If the deal includes a single mass flywheel, the shifter and bearings it might be worth it. I paid about $2k for my trans, plus a shifter and about $1k for the SB flywheel/clutch/PP kit. I'm not a welder, so I can't say go buy it. Just be aware there isn't an aftermarket for G56 trans parts. They all come from the dealer and you know what that means, $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$.

I do like that gear between the NV4500's 3rd and 4th for towing though.
 
I was thinking about the 56 for my 2wd ....... but I think I would kill it with the way I drive ..... I tend to get a bit torque happy ...... ok Frequently ....LOL
 
the 56 sure is a nice shifting transmission, the 45 has a bigger gap between 3rd and 4th
also from my experience the 56 is harder to find a solid parts source for, the 45's are a little easier to rebuild and source parts for..
 
4x4manonbroke said:
A good welder should not have any issues with repairing it .....
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Some won't even touch cast. The ones that do would be pricey. It would only be a deal if you could do it yourself. You have to preheat, postheat and buy expensive nickel rods. You could try it cold and only weld a little at time allowing to cool in between. Then theres the old redneck way; hit it with 7018 and hope it holds! I've read a bunch on it, but it looks like a huge PITA.


GAmes said:
If the deal includes a single mass flywheel, the shifter and bearings it might be worth it.
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No deal on any of that stuff; at least not pictured or mentioned. The crack is the big deal killer in my mind because there are a surplus of welders looking for work in the area. Why not get it fixed rather than sell it? Could be other stuff wrong too. Stuff that you would only realize once you put it in your truck...
 
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