Might be pulling the transmission again...

npe3484 said:
This is what my dad and I were also thinking. Is the filter on the intake side or the discharge side of the pressure?
Click to expand...

The filter is on the inlet side, that 3/4" round hole near the three metal screw grommets is the actual inlet or point of suction.

I am surprised you actually burnt the HYGard, it takes more than 300*F to start changing color whereas regular atf seems to start to change color around 225*-230*
 
Big Blue24 said:
The filter is on the inlet side, that 3/4" round hole near the three metal screw grommets is the actual inlet or point of suction.

I am surprised you actually burnt the HYGard, it takes more than 300*F to start changing color whereas regular atf seems to start to change color around 225*-230*
Click to expand...

Yea that surprised me as well. My converter not being locked during O/D was probably a contributing factor to the overheating.

I'm pretty much to the point where I want to yank the trans again and start back at square one. What's the best way to flush my cooler and heat exchanger? Considering the bee nests/larvae I've found all over the place, it wouldn't surprise me if they also found their way into my cooler lines while I had the trans out.

Also, what is the general consensus on removing the anti-drain back valve from below the heat exchanger?

I'll go through the trans and freshen up whatever got damaged by the heat. Then probably add a valve body from a reputable builder (leaning towards Garmon) and a torque converter rebuilt by Phil Taylor. I still have the stock VB parts so I can hopefully resell the DTT shift kit to help pay for the new unit.

Thankfully work has picked up lately and I actually have a 2nd vehicle to drive. I'm leaving for Houston tomorrow, so I won't be able to work on the truck for about 2 weeks.
 
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