Monster vp 44

Bighorny said:
Definitely no arguing that p pumping is the most cost effective way to make big power. It's just a fact. A big hairy fact.

The problem for myself as well as others that are competing is that you gotta follow class limits. There is a bunch out there that I could throw on to my 2.6 puller but then I am out of the class.

Getting your truck to the top of a particular class is going to be expensive whatever fueling system you have.

I am a little less than 200hp shy of the 1k mark, and I know full well that closing that gap is ultimately going to cost the most money. That being said, once the road is paved for making that amount of power with a VP I should have a nice bag of tricks to carry on to the next truck, which will be p pumped.

Noobs mouthing off to moderators,......probably not a good idead. Noobs going after a milestone goal,...... great idea. Everyone has the capability to bring innovation and new ideas to the sport, Sandman might not be the guy but there have been plenty of advancements brought about by going at it on your own, doing your own experimentation and finding out what doesn't work first hand.

Now for the guy thats on here that just wants to get his truck running in the 12's or 13's, there are tried and true methods that when provided to you by a knowledgable member of the forum should be taken as gospel, no need to reinvent the wheel.
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A little less than 200hp shy of 1k? Is this on fuel only or nitrous assisted?
 
TURBOLVR said:
Can we have a basic run down on what it took to get to the 1060 mark?
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Hmmm.. Well where do I start? Diesel Power will be doing an article on it coming up. I'll probably let loose with more info than I should for that article.

It's the basic "more fuel more air equasion." The lower end is still stock 130k miles(Including the cam.) It's just a ton of tuning and trying new things. Having a good working knowledge of nitrous (My bottom turbo in a bottle) has been a big help.

A little about the OLD 1060 setup:
HTT 66/71 single
ported stock exhaust manifold
Ported CR head/ARP 625 studs/stock gasket
Ported ATS arc flow
Custom N2o system
Monster pump
Drag comp
AFE stg 2
6" exhaust
Stock intercooler
Stock lower end, motor has never been out of the truck
 
WINspeed said:
Hmmm.. Well where do I start? Diesel Power will be doing an article on it coming up. I'll probably let loose with more info than I should for that article.

It's the basic "more fuel more air equasion." The lower end is still stock 130k miles(Including the cam.) It's just a ton of tuning and trying new things. Having a good working knowledge of nitrous (My bottom turbo in a bottle) has been a big help.

A little about the OLD 1060 setup:
HTT 66/71 single
ported stock exhaust manifold
Ported CR head/ARP 625 studs/stock gasket
Ported ATS arc flow
Custom N2o system
Monster pump
Drag comp
AFE stg 2
6" exhaust
Stock intercooler
Stock lower end, motor has never been out of the truck
Click to expand...

AKA my next set up but with a silver bullet instead. adam i need to see the new setup! is the truck still at the shop or did you take it home? i might make a trip up that way to check it out.
 
how much power do you think you can add by redoing the whole motor. from top to bottom?
 
Sandman9 said:
how much power do you think you can add by redoing the whole motor. from top to bottom?
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No question you could make more power if you went crazy with the motor. Thats kind of like saying how high is up.

Unless you spent tons of money on it, like 20k+, I dont think you would make much more power. These motors are a good building block stock. I've seen more "built" motors blow up than stockers, and they dont seem to do much better. If mine grenades i'll put a stock one back in it.$.02
 
WINspeed said:
No question you could make more power if you went crazy with the motor. Thats kind of like saying how high is up.

Unless you spent tons of money on it, like 20k+, I dont think you would make much more power. These motors are a good building block stock. I've seen more "built" motors blow up than stockers, and they dont seem to do much better. If mine grenades i'll put a stock one back in it.$.02
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ok thanks for the info.
well i guess if im going to try for the 1k mark on fuel i will need to put in more than 20k. ha
i think its awsome you got over the 1k mark on a vp. are you going to try and go for fuel only now?
 
powermad said:
AKA my next set up but with a silver bullet instead. adam i need to see the new setup! is the truck still at the shop or did you take it home? i might make a trip up that way to check it out.
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It's my daily driver. When I'm there, It's there. Call me when you want to come by and make sure I'm there. The schedule at my other job has me working Mon, Tue, Wed, 6pm-6am. Best bet is to catch me there on Fridays or weekends.
 
maybe i will head up there on a weekend my 9pm to 530am jb doesnt make me want to do much on the week days.i lost your cell number. pm me it when you get a chance.
 
i think since the fuel is there if it was done on spray then the key to doing it on fuel is going to be motor efficiency.

-aggressive cam grind that will allow quick spool but flow big numbers

-flycut and slightly decompressed pistons, maybe some bowl work, for the cam grind and to allow for more air and fuel. nothing crazy where it needs ether, but enough to let the motor breathe better. of course a 6.7 bottom end with more displacement could always help too.

-ported head, none of the half ass stuff either, im talking all out porting, cutting intake off the head and maximizing flow.

-perfectly sized turbos, they need to spool quick but still flow up top. the key to power on a vp44 is to get the curve up quick before you run out of fuel/rpm. kinda like trucks with the same injectors/fuel but a 62 might make over 600 hp while a silver bullet 66 will be mid 500's...gotta get up on that power quick.
 
Again, the VP can physically flow the amount of fuel needed to make 1000hp. It's going to be motor efficiency that get's it there. A VP truck with an engine efficiency of 64% will make 1000hp. Its completely possible to make an engine with an 80% efficiency rating based on the btu content of the fuel the VP can provide.

The power is there, it just needs getting out.
 
WINspeed said:
Hmmm.. Well where do I start? Diesel Power will be doing an article on it coming up. I'll probably let loose with more info than I should for that article.

It's the basic "more fuel more air equasion." The lower end is still stock 130k miles(Including the cam.) It's just a ton of tuning and trying new things. Having a good working knowledge of nitrous (My bottom turbo in a bottle) has been a big help.

A little about the OLD 1060 setup:
HTT 66/71 single
ported stock exhaust manifold
Ported CR head/ARP 625 studs/stock gasket
Ported ATS arc flow
Custom N2o system
Monster pump
Drag comp
AFE stg 2
6" exhaust
Stock intercooler
Stock lower end, motor has never been out of the truck
Click to expand...


good numbers, what did it run on just fuel?
 
WINspeed may i ask why you used a CR head? i thought the 24v head would flow more than the CR head?
 
ok fellas i think im going to take all your wize advice and leave the pump off untill i can atleast get mikes injectors and a turbo. or untill the one i have goes out. hopfully it last threw school.
 
I ain't reading throught the first 7 pages of this thing but where you going to school? Yes, derailed. Sorry.
 
a 3rd gen head has a little larger ports for air, well worth the effort to stick one on your truck! Thanks to Adam Ive got one stuck on my head thats been ported/polished:rockwoot:
 
IC-Smoke said:
a 3rd gen head has a little larger ports for air, well worth the effort to stick one on your truck! Thanks to Adam Ive got one stuck on my head thats been ported/polished:rockwoot:
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sweet! ill prob do that as well :Cheer:
 
i figure you learn all you need to make 1000hp when your at wyotech. all you will need after that is to buy your own dyno $20000 in parts and another $10000 to fix the parts you break. im envious that your going to wyotech.
 
powermad said:
i figure you learn all you need to make 1000hp when your at wyotech. all you will need after that is to buy your own dyno $20000 in parts and another $10000 to fix the parts you break. im envious that your going to wyotech.
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I wouldn't be so sure your going to need all that money. Wyotech's main sponsor is banks. A big nitrous kit doesn't cost that much....:hehe:
 
well ive put about 13000 total into my engine and trans and im at around 500hp sooo. i think it will take money. or hit the dyno once, put down 1000 then blow it up because of taking short cuts
 
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