More AFC questions with pics

[12v Ford]

I have a few afc questions. First off, I have ground the back of the barrel on the afc foot, and I have ground the lip off the washer on the diaphram and my pump is a 215hp so it also has the washer to space the diaphram out some more. The barrel is ground just enough that with the diaphram pushed in, it won't go anymore without hitting on the housing and the barrel is against the front of the housing.

Now for the questions- In pic 1, the bolt on the front of the housing is in stock position, and the afc foot has a wear mark in the middle of it from the gov. arm.

In pic 2, it shows the foot all the way into the 0 plate and the tip of the afc foot is just barely sticking out past the plate towards the top.

In pic 3, the 0 plate is about 1/8" from the back of the foot and you can see that the afc face is sticking out past the plate.

In pic 4, the 10 plate is about 3/16" from the back of the foot and the face of the foot still doesn't go past the plate.

In pic 5, the 10 plate is against the foot and there is no question that the face of the afc is behind the plate.

So I put the plate full forward and the afc on without the springs so I could move the foot back and forth. With the 0 plate full forward and the afc all the way forward, it hits the back of the plate, but with the afc all the way back, it doesn't hit the plate until the afc is just shy of full forward. So to get the afc foot clear of the 0 plate, the afc would have to be all the way forward. With the afc all the way back, and the plate slid back 1/8" or so, the afc foot would again clear the plate because an 1/8" or so is how far the afc moves forward or backwards. With the 10 plate, you could run the plate and afc housing in any position and the afc foot would always clear the profile because the profile sticks out farther than the 0 plate.

My question is this, would it be good to grind on the back of the afc foot where it contacts the plate so that the face of the afc foot will be clear of the 0 plate profile? My 10 plate has a shinny spot on it from the gov arm, but the 0 plate doesn't and I believe that is because the gov arm never hits the 0 plate, because it is still hitting the face of the afc foot. Also the face of the afc foot slopes back, so wouldn't that cut your top end fueling?

Sorry for the long winded and probably confusing post. Just trying to figure a few things out about the afc.

Clayton

 

[displacedtexan]

Yes, you could grind the AFC foot. I'd take more off the barrel though.

 

[displacedtexan]

And I'd listen to Weston more than me

 

[12v Ford]

Yes, I did grind where the red arrow is and it is ground as much as you can because now the washer on the diaphram is ground flat, but would hit the housing, so there is no way to get more travel from the foot unless you space the diaphram out more. Does that make sense? It's kind of hard to explain without showing.

Instead of grinding where the black arrow is, would it be good to grind on the other side of that so the arm can go farther into the plate?

 

[GOT-Torque]

Some grinding on the other side (black arrow) could be okay but depends on your setup. It you are like me and run a large single, tall gears, and big tires, it's not such a good thing. However, I'm probably asking for more than is possible with my setup. You will have more fuel at no/low boost conditions.

If anyone has an untouched AFC arm and can take some measurements I would appreciate it. I am trying to find the distances "A" and "B" shown below:

Thanks

 

[schaef_12]

Yes, you could grind the AFC foot. I'd take more off the barrel though.

Cutting more off the barrel wont help him because the back of the foot hits on the plate before the barrel touches the afc housing.

It seems to me you can either grind on the back of the foot to keep it from touching the plate, or move the whole afc forward and adjust the starwheel/aneroid to keep the desired preboost fueling.

That doesn't look like a terrible fueling setup though, a little defueling on the top end would help keep egt's in check.

 

[NickTF]

Why not just make it easy and get rid of the plate?

 

[Muddin_dude06]

I ground some off of the back of the foot and also ground the slot in the plate deeper. I modded my AFC to where the last restriction on travel was the rod that pushes the foot forward, it hits the front of the AFC housing before anything else does.

 

[Cummins Driver]

Anyone have pictures of the washers being flipped? I know wich ones they are, just would like to see pics of it apart. I think Weston posted some a while back but i couldnt find em in a search.

Eric

 

[Rodram2002]

Anyone have pictures of the washers being flipped? I know wich ones they are, just would like to see pics of it apart. I think Weston posted some a while back but i couldnt find em in a search.

Eric

The stock setup is on the right and the flipped washers is on the left.

 

[displacedtexan]

Cutting more off the barrel wont help him because the back of the foot hits on the plate before the barrel touches the afc housing.

It seems to me you can either grind on the back of the foot to keep it from touching the plate, or move the whole afc forward and adjust the starwheel/aneroid to keep the desired preboost fueling.

That doesn't look like a terrible fueling setup though, a little defueling on the top end would help keep egt's in check.

:bang I read it that the barrel was hitting the AFC housing...

 

[Cummins Driver]

Thanks RodRam. I need to do that to mine.

I know my truck backs the power off the least little bit i move the plate back, so the governor arm has to be hitting the plate or AFC lever one. I have the barrel ground, but it wont do me any good till i flip the washers.

Eric

 

[GOT-Torque]

Even with a 2095 rack plug? My paperwork from Schieds claimed 50cc more fuel flow going from full forward to no plate. Maybe this #0 plate is ground alittle different?

 

[94 12valve]

Got some measurements the arm is rounded in the back and the face is at an angle (see pic) so I measured from the middle of the face to the middle of the back, at the top 1.027 inches and at the bottom .995 inches

 

[BluegrassDiesel]

Even with a 2095 rack plug? My paperwork from Schieds claimed 50cc more fuel flow going from full forward to no plate. Maybe this #0 plate is ground alittle different?

The problem is that some "zero" plates are different than others. Yes they are all flat with no profile, but the depth at which they are cut is different. I think what Weston is saying is that a TRUE zero plate is the same as running no plate.

 

[12v Ford]

I ground some off of the back of the foot and also ground the slot in the plate deeper. I modded my AFC to where the last restriction on travel was the rod that pushes the foot forward, it hits the front of the AFC housing before anything else does.

I can see that this would work. With the 10 plate, I can set it anywhere and set the afc anywhere and I know that the afc foot will go past the plate profile, but with the 0 plate (which is a true TST plate) I can't do this.

I never run my plate full forward. For max power I'll run it just a touch back from full forward. But I also don't want to run the afc housing all the way forward to make sure the foot clears the plate profile, so I guess I'll grind on the back of the foot where it contacts the plate. Does anyone think this is not a good idea?? The only thing I see it changing is when running the 0 plate, grinding the back of the foot makes sure you'll be on the plate and not the afc foot still.

 

[12v Ford]

You have to understand that the governor arm will not hit a #0 plate @ 100%. I like it when someone says that you should not run without a plate, however they are simply in the same situation with a #0 full forward. I have measurements of this sort I could put up if it helps.

I don't run my TST 0 plate full forward, I run it just a touch back. How far forward can you run a 0 plate and still hit it so your not running like your plateless??

I've always found that running just a touch back on the plate runs better anyway.

 

[DieselPower359]

Why do you say that Smokem?

 

[Mo Smoke]

Because it will retard the timing if set too far forward on a 215 pump (retard notch) if I remember correctly.

 

[12v Ford]

You must have a 215hp pump.

Yep, I've got a 215 pump. Do you know at what rack mm the 215 pump starts to retard timing? That should help me with the other numbers you gave. How can you measure the rack travel?