motor oil!

AGCO PowerLube 7000 15x40...I get it cheap, and I think it's still CI rated.

Run it in every vehicle we own, gas or diesel...got a Cummins with 360K on the clock, and a few gasser's nearing 300K on them as well...can't be too terrible.

Chris
 
teddybear said:
I run John Deere Plus50 15w40 in my puller. It still has the CI rating so the zinc levels are higher. I run CJ4 Rotella 15w40 in my duramax.
Click to expand...

Im running the JD Plus50 15w40.....I switched to it when I found out they are going to continue the CI rating... abit expensive but...
 
Schaeffers moly 50w in the pullin truck. Valvoline premium blue in the daily drivers.
 
Delo 400 15w40. Have run Rotella T in the past, but the places aren't stocking it as much these days.
 
i run Royal Purple and love it. i use there engine, trans and rear diff products. for me it is peace of mind to spend the extra money and buy a decent oil
 
Valvoline Premium Blue 15/40... Oil sample results should be coming in next week. Then may be going back to Cen-Pe-Co
 
I was running Rotella T 15w-40, after my rebuild I am going to use Rotella T for the first 3-4 oil changes and then try out Mystic 15w-50 synthetic, and I will be running 1-2 bottles of Lucas break-in oil additive as a zinc booster from now on.
 
Last edited:
mondtster said:
While this is likely only true if the motor is fairly mild, I agree 110%. It always amuses me how people seem to be so concerned about getting the absolute best oil for their motor so they can get the most mileage out of it possible. The body will rust and driveline parts will fall apart long before the motor dies, assuming that it has been given the basic maintenance it needs. No matter how you look at it these are still light duty trucks that are designed with a reasonable life span of ~150k miles.

I have never seen an engine failure that could be attributed to the oil being used, with the exception of some engines that failed due to a bad batch of Shell oil (it was mixed improperly and the ambient temp was REALLY cold). There is always something else that seems to be the root cause.

There are fewer oil "manufacturers" than most people think. A lot of the oils come from the same place; they just have slightly different recipes and different stickers on the bottles.

With all that said, I usually run the farm store house brand synthetic oil because it is the best bang for my buck. No problems so far and both my dad and I have put thousands of miles on our trucks using it.
Click to expand...

i use the amsoil 15-40. If you ask an engine builder if spending the money on a quality oil is worth it he will tell you it is. An engine will run way out of spec it will just become way more ineffiecient ect. There is lots of quality oils out there just dont get the cheapest sh!t you can find if the engine is important to you. good luck
 
Used delo for the first 15k miles, used rotella T 15w40 for the next 100k miles, switched to synthetic for 12k miles, back to rotella T 15w40 for the last 63k miles and no problems yet. Been running a wix oil filter every oil change for the last 190,000 miles. Compression is still good, oil always turns black within 500 miles, very little if any blow by. I just started running HD's zinc additive this oil change. Last oil change was STP's additive. Only reason for the additives is the cam/springs/pushrods. Otherwise I wouldn't run it and wouldn't have any worries about not running it.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top