motor oil!

Sand. I use 10% sand and 90% SuperTech 15w40. Have the oil analysis to prove it. It adds ~146ppm of silicon per oil change. Helps the rings seat.
 
Valvoline Premium Blue. Thinking of going Mobil1 on the next few.
 
I use CI-4 Rottela that I buy from work, supposedly higher zinc content than the new CJ-4 oils.
 
Either Rotella 5/40 or Valvoline 5/40.

Tried most of them. The UOA are about the same between most of the synthetics, so it just boils down to cost for me. Can usually get the Rotella cheaper.
 
For my race truck schaeffer's micron moly 50W my street truck schaeffer's premium 7000 15W40
 
moblie 1 in the pull truck and rotella in the haul truck fixing to switch both of them to the Premuim Blue hard good things about it and runs cleaner
 
Mobil Delvac 1300 super in the daily driver.
 
Well the thing about oil running clean is actually not a good thing. For instance say you are running a oil and then you switch to a new oil and find that it stays cleaner longer that is not such a good thing because its not like your truck is producing less soot and deposits with the new oil in it so that soot that isnt ending up in your oil any longer is now in the engine somewhere instead of being suspended in the oil. A oils job in a diesel engine is to suspend all of the soot in the oil so that it comes out when the oil is changed. So with that being said if the oil isnt getting as dirty that means your engine is getting dirtier. So most of the time it is actually better if your oil gets dirty that means its doing its job.
 
Im running lubro-moly hi-tech diesel oil. Got over 15k hard miles on one oil change and the oil still comes back like new from the lab.

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I run John Deere Plus50 15w40 in my puller. It still has the CI rating so the zinc levels are higher. I run CJ4 Rotella 15w40 in my duramax.
 
at work they use Valvoline Premium Blue (its endorsed by Cummins, so why not?) also run Rotella when running high speed mechanical/overspeed test, not sure why though...
 
I run whatever oil is on sale. Lately the Walmart Supertech 15-40 has been the cheapest around $8.50 per gallon.

I think of it like changing shampoo brands. The first time you use a new brand of shampoo, your hair feels so much cleaner cause it cuts out the deposits left by the last brand's special mix.


I figure the motor in my truck will last longer than the rest of the truck, regardless of what brand motor oil it runs on.
 
I have always ran Rotella T 15-40, Been thinking about swappin over to a better oil, but have always been told that its not good to switch oils in an engine like that. (Every vehicle I have bought I have always used the same oil that the previous owner used.) Anything to this statement?

Lynn
 
Big Blue24 said:
I figure the motor in my truck will last longer than the rest of the truck, regardless of what brand motor oil it runs on.
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While this is likely only true if the motor is fairly mild, I agree 110%. It always amuses me how people seem to be so concerned about getting the absolute best oil for their motor so they can get the most mileage out of it possible. The body will rust and driveline parts will fall apart long before the motor dies, assuming that it has been given the basic maintenance it needs. No matter how you look at it these are still light duty trucks that are designed with a reasonable life span of ~150k miles.

I have never seen an engine failure that could be attributed to the oil being used, with the exception of some engines that failed due to a bad batch of Shell oil (it was mixed improperly and the ambient temp was REALLY cold). There is always something else that seems to be the root cause.

There are fewer oil "manufacturers" than most people think. A lot of the oils come from the same place; they just have slightly different recipes and different stickers on the bottles.

With all that said, I usually run the farm store house brand synthetic oil because it is the best bang for my buck. No problems so far and both my dad and I have put thousands of miles on our trucks using it.
 
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