My $50 air shut-off

dzlfarmboy said:
Im pretty happy with the Simplicity and design of this butterfly valve that you and just weld into the 3" IC pipe


Brett
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You probably should use a blowoff valve in that application correct?

How much is the chantham valve pictured?
 
zstroken said:
The 1/8" inch hole wasn't was I was referring to. It is the sealing area around the slide that is the issue. If your not running with a filter what you have will work great. Just when you put a filter on it and run at a dust bowl, your gonna suck some stuff inside around the gate area. I am sure it cold be addressed also with some silicon and all. For $50 what you have is great. I really don't see a VPtruck haveing the need for a air shutoff, I guess the bypass solenoid could stick shut though and force all of the fuel into the engine.
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I dont think a vp44 needs it either, but what if a turbo seal lets go? Also...the rules say ya gotta have it for some of the places around here so...I gotta have it.
 
Yeah I wouldn't mind having one either even just on the street so the sliding gate would let in some dust BUT I bet that could be solved very easily and cheaply.
 
I forgot all about the turbo seal, usually that is a slow death though. But would be better to have one than not!
 
The front seal on the compressor side.... Its acts like a go around affect oil drips out of the turbo then follows its path going into the combustion system and ignites and creates exhaust to keep spinning the turbo so more oil keeps going into the engine. It just becomes a cycle of it running with no fuel required.... That is worst case senario of course. Very rare but it has happened a few times before around the shop up here at my school
 
Muddin_dude06 said:
Turbo seal? Which seal and what would it screw up?
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the oil film bearings/turbo shaft seals...if you were to blow one you would have very hot high pressure oil leaking in your compressor housing.

i did see a guy last year running wins with no filter and his shut off was not hooked up at a brush pull...he popped an oil line on top of the turbo and itcame down and landed right in his intake tube for the primary below...started to runaway for a second but luckily didnt take off like crazy.
 
TJ, You built yours and thats awesome, congrats. Looks like youve covered all the bases you wanted too. Youve shown some people how to get past that hurdle in the rule book. I am not here to take that away from you.

I dont believe I ever quoted $750 for one let alone two, in fact they are less than that. With the exception of the bolts and spring, there are not other parts for me to buy in quantity as they are all machined out of raw aluminum stock.

I didnt ask you to ditch your gate, or tell anyone to not build one themselves. I didnt make a comment on the quality or even the sealing ability of the style your using. I didnt debate anything about about it, even after all you've had to say. Lots of people run them, people I know well run them. The topic was about air shut off's, There is more than one way to accomplish that. As you can see from other posts in this thread the thoughts being discussed, they point at how more than one style can co-exist with the one your using. Everyone has their own idea's of what they need to do the job and this should be clearly evident by the cam,transmission and even water pump threads that exist on Comp.

To agree with post's in here. I wouldn't think a VP or newer truck needs one but some sanctioning bodies still mandate they be used.

The shut off in the charge pipe probably should have a BOV in it or thats instant surge. I think that overcoming the airstream on full boost on the pressure side could require something with more force to it to spin that plate.$.02
 
zstroken said:
You probably should use a blowoff valve in that application correct?

How much is the chantham valve pictured?
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It cost about $330 I believe and thats retail with tax.

What would you need a blow off valve for?
 
The pressure the turbo is trying to stuff into the motor is going to back up against that plate and try to stop your compressor wheel from spinning.
 
carfichris said:
TJ, You built yours and thats awesome, congrats. Looks like youve covered all the bases you wanted too. Youve shown some people how to get past that hurdle in the rule book. I am not here to take that away from you.

I dont believe I ever quoted $750 for one let alone two, in fact they are less than that. With the exception of the bolts and spring, there are not other parts for me to buy in quantity as they are all machined out of raw aluminum stock.

I didnt ask you to ditch your gate, or tell anyone to not build one themselves. I didnt make a comment on the quality or even the sealing ability of the style your using. I didnt debate anything about about it, even after all you've had to say. Lots of people run them, people I know well run them. The topic was about air shut off's, There is more than one way to accomplish that. As you can see from other posts in this thread the thoughts being discussed, they point at how more than one style can co-exist with the one your using. Everyone has their own idea's of what they need to do the job and this should be clearly evident by the cam,transmission and even water pump threads that exist on Comp.

To agree with post's in here. I wouldn't think a VP or newer truck needs one but some sanctioning bodies still mandate they be used.

The shut off in the charge pipe probably should have a BOV in it or thats instant surge. I think that overcoming the airstream on full boost on the pressure side could require something with more force to it to spin that plate.$.02
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The butterfly should require minimal force to open under boost, as soon as you expose one side you will have half pushing it open, half pushing it closed. I suppose if you cut your shaft flat on one side you could put the round side out, as that would seem to offer an air dam to help give it a little more advantage to swing closed. I think the price on the Chris's plates are some of the most reasonable I have seen.
 
CumminNotRunnin said:
Tj are u setting this up to run at The Buck on May 10th in Pro Street?
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there is no prostreet on may 10th.

and the tech crew there wouldn't know what an air shut off is...they would think its some kind of cheater part and prolly wouldn't let me pull if they saw it :hehe:
 
carfichris said:
The pressure the turbo is trying to stuff into the motor is going to back up against that plate and try to stop your compressor wheel from spinning.
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Yeah I guess that makes sence, what pressure would it have to be set at?


Z the butterfly is spring loaded with a decent amount of tension on the spring.
 
carfichris said:
When that time comes that you dare spend more for your air shut off than your oil change and you want a precision piece.......
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Those look good also but the buterfly gats aren,t legal in a lot of the big asso.
You can have a 1/4 "hole in the plate and it will kill the motor with no problem.I use the push oull cables work the best I use a peice of fuel line on the back atatched to a smooth pin 5/16 the same size as the cable use hoseclamps too hold them together only clamp one just so it will pull the pin and then pull ofrom the cable that way nothing get hurt been using that method for years.
Dale
 
I had heard the butterfly legality also, but have not seen it in writing in any of the pulling that i do. I know that Haisleys had a butterfly on one of their mod trucks for awhile.
 
2wpuller said:
Those look good also but the buterfly gats aren,t legal in a lot of the big asso.
You can have a 1/4 "hole in the plate and it will kill the motor with no problem.I use the push oull cables work the best I use a peice of fuel line on the back atatched to a smooth pin 5/16 the same size as the cable use hoseclamps too hold them together only clamp one just so it will pull the pin and then pull ofrom the cable that way nothing get hurt been using that method for years.
Dale
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with the push pull cable you dont need to run it in any conduit correct?

can you get a pic of the fuel line trick, i think i know what you mean but wanna be sure.
 
Im not sure but the 6 ft push pull cable I got is extreamly hard to pull, I need to figure out something thats a lil easier.
 
The cables that I use are long enough to go from front to back you can get 1/4 ,5/16,3/8 I like the 1/4 the best it is real easy and smooth and plenty strong.I,ll try to take a pic of the end I ll post them in my gallery some one else is going to have to post them on the thread it wont let me post pic.
Haisley had to put a guilitene on .
Dale
 
I have heard the talk about passing tech on this style but its only been talk and not from any one guy that actually tech's for an association. The techs we talked to when we had the first one finished and wanted their input on them didnt object at all. It may not work for every case depending on what the rules are.

About the cables. I have seen the complete pull out cables and the only thing I have heard negative about them is threading them back through once they are out. The fuel line being as rigid as it is, if your radius's were fairly relaxed wouldnt be bad to fish through. Is that what your experience with it is Dale?
 
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