My $50 air shut-off

I could see NTPA requiring the guillitone style. Heck they require cables to hold the head on. What about DHRA/NADM, most of the place I hook with don't require a shut off period. I already have a fuel supply pump, and the injection stop solenoid. I would jsut like to add the air shut off in there also, with the ability to effectively run an air filter. Lots of the places we hook at are dust bowls!
 
I don't use the pull out cables only push pull a little more $ but alot easer to work with.you can bend a 1/4 p/p prtty sharp before they get hard to pull we have alot of them on redi mix truck for throtles on the rear.
Puting pic in my gallery now of the cable end and a chute off gate I made a couple of years ago for my son truck that DHRA said we need for the S/S class.and the 2.8,3.0 classes have to have them PPL,ITPA,NTPA,CMPA,
could some one post the pic of the chute off and the cable end Thank You

Dale
 
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Thanks I don,t know way it won't let me post.O got som pic of some of the 2wd puller parts in the gallery.

when you open the gate it will automacally lock .The lock is spring loaded. works good only one hand needed.
Dale
 
Man its hard to focus on the cable end with those cuts as a back drop.:bow:
 
Here are a couple of pics of the cable I just shove the end of the cable into the hole in the gate. The hook you see on the turbo end clamped to the line is to release the gate from in the cab.
 

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Those are tires for a garden trator puller that we ust to pull.

Dale
 
I highly doubt a 5.9L engine can run at 4krpms breathing through a hole smaller than 1/8"...so I don't get the comment about the "huge gaping hole"QUOTE]

Actually it can!!! The first time I started my engine I had a run away (I got it stopped as Van Haisley told me to ready for anything the first time I started it) so I had a piece of plywood close by. The first time I started it I was told I would more than likly have to ether it after trying to crank it and only seeing white smoke I went for the ether. Van told me to take the piping from the IC to the intake plenum off and ether it there instead of thru the turbo in case I had to shut it down very fast I could just slap the board across the plenum. I had my brother crank, I ethered it one little hit....fired right up like it should. Next thing I knew I had oil pissing out the dipstick and right into the intake plenum!!!!! Turns out I didn't remove the tape from the breather tube on the tappet cover from when it was painted and the only place for the vapors/oil to go was up the dipstick. The memory tach never went over 3800 rpm but it was still scary.

Anyway, I slamed the board over the intake and it slowed it down ALOT but was still running....WTF!!!!! I could hear a whistling sound comming from the side of the head. Turns out I had missed putting one of the plugs into the side of the head/intake when I plumed up my boost lines and the engine was running and breathing out of that hole (1/8" npt) at 1500 rpm. Sounds stupid but I put my finger over the hole and it died almost instantly...had a nice little hickey looking mark on my index finger for the next few days but was happy I stoped it!

Took the tape of the breather, plugged the hole for the boost line and it fired right now and its ran like a top ever since.

Ryan
 
trying to think of the best way to rig a blast gate or stack cap end on a ford
 
yes sir that is a pitbull we used to be dealers in Missouri we have some older sets and a couple of pitbull 2 and some alluminum front wheeles and hubs left.

Dale
 
wher would you find a 2 inch steel ring for the end of air shut off cable?? cant seeem to find one
 
Its called a "Welded Oring" at most hardware stores look near the turnbuckles and such.
 
so my 5 inch blast gate form mcmaster carr wont fit over my 5 inch turbo, the diameter is only 4 and 5/8 on the gate
 
Weld up that 1/8" hole... potential problem solved. Just be careful not too use too much heat and warp that plate.

I like it, takes me back to the days when pulling trucks were built out in the barn with inginuity, trial, and error instead of in a shop halfway accross the country with the swipe of a Visa card.

Kudos for making it work.
 
that 1/8" hole is where the pin goes, and also there to stop from destroying the turbo if it ever has to be used at full boost.
 
Oh i see, to pin it in the open position. I guess it would take some significant re-engineering to eliminate that.
 
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