My bypass kit.....version 1.0

I understand this but if u notice when a. Tank cracks its always the side that the coolant discharges from I am just tryin to keep the tank from crackin and leakin
 
When I tapped the other spot in there...I was a bit hesitant..but its' actually more like a fiberglass that a soft plastic.
It's pretty thick too. I figure tapping it and lock tite to hold it all together should be pretty solid.

I'm only going off what I already did. If it fails miserably...I'll be sure to post about it so nobody else tries it that way.
 
Camotanker said:
um... yes!


now all those guys ****ting themselves for spending $500! LMAO!!!!
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Remember Cam, we are at Comp D LOL ....... This is not the place where folks generally come to buy ready-made kits(for many applications) that have been tested. Steve's kit is a proven kit that performs as advertised. Can it be done cheaper? Yep, but nobody else has one you can buy off the shelf that comes close.
 
Timbeaux38 said:
Remember Cam, we are at Comp D LOL ....... This is not the place where folks generally come to buy ready-made kits(for many applications) that have been tested. Steve's kit is a proven kit that performs as advertised. Can it be done cheaper? Yep, but nobody else has one you can buy off the shelf that comes close.
Click to expand...



My bad Tim... it's my split personalities!!!! :hehe:
 
I did a lot of staring at it today....just running different things through the old melon.
I decided to not tap the radiator. I am gonna go ahead and go into the t-stat housing. I don't like the idea of tapping it....even after I went this morning and bought a brand new 1/2NPT tap. Seeing the tap got me thinking so I pulled the radiator hose to see how thick it is. IMHO...not nearly thick enough for a 14 tpi tap.

I pulled the housing off and gonna take it to the maintenence shop guy tomorrow to drill it and weld on a 1/2NPT fitting. I assume it's cast iron...but with the right rod no worries.

I also went today to look at other fittings and honestly...the ID of the valve I bought is only a hair over 1/2" so I'm just gonna stick with the fittings and hose I have for now. MOstly because I'm in BFE right now and I really don't have a choice. I'll go bigger when I get back to civilization and can actually have a selection of stuff to pick from.


SO....that's where I'm at today.
 
I already pulled off the t-stat housing and bought a 1/2NPT coupling to weld onto it....only spent another $1.89. LOL
 
$60-80K and now your are gonna nickel and dime it.....

HAhahaha:hehe:
 
UNBROKEN said:
I did a lot of staring at it today....just running different things through the old melon.
I decided to not tap the radiator. I am gonna go ahead and go into the t-stat housing. I don't like the idea of tapping it....even after I went this morning and bought a brand new 1/2NPT tap. Seeing the tap got me thinking so I pulled the radiator hose to see how thick it is. IMHO...not nearly thick enough for a 14 tpi tap.

I pulled the housing off and gonna take it to the maintenence shop guy tomorrow to drill it and weld on a 1/2NPT fitting. I assume it's cast iron...but with the right rod no worries.

I also went today to look at other fittings and honestly...the ID of the valve I bought is only a hair over 1/2" so I'm just gonna stick with the fittings and hose I have for now. MOstly because I'm in BFE right now and I really don't have a choice. I'll go bigger when I get back to civilization and can actually have a selection of stuff to pick from.


SO....that's where I'm at today.
Click to expand...

When reading through this I was going to say that 1/2" pipe is a very course thread at 14tpi, and couldnt see it working with a plastic rad. tank, prob would get 1 thread maybe...going into the cast housing seems like a great idea though. Good luck.
Ryan
 
I was looking at hoses and fittings the other day at the hardware/plumbing supply store and it seems I can get everything in 1/2" ID... does everyone think that is enough flow? I am going with a ball valve instead of a pressure relief, so it should flow a hair better I would think. Hell, right now it has NO flow from back there, so anything would be better than nothing, right? Another thing I was thinking about, the 12/24V guys are worried about the plug in the back of the block popping and the CR kits I've seen tap into the rear port on the head. Does using one help the other? Or should a line come from the head and a line from the block and T together before they run into the rad. hose? I bought the Jegs inline tap for the upper rad. hose and it has two ports, but I'm curious to everyones opinion? I know 2 seperate lines would be better, but for simplicities sake I want to stay with one.
Thoughts?
 
The plug in the back of the head is just the most common to blow out. If you relieve the pressure anywhere in the system it will help from blowing out the plug. Improving flow from the back of the head is just an added benefit.
12 valve guys don't have threaded plugs in there heads to tap into like the newer trucks so they use a kit that replaces the rear plug.
 
I thought there was one in the back of the block that pops out too? Or am I getting that confused with the back of the head?
 
There is two plugs under the intake manifold on a 12v head that are water ports gonna run two reliefs on it one in the head and one in the rear freeze plug to we will see how it works
 
Gotta a question.... These kits are running a valve of some sort. What would be wrong with just scrapping the valve and just running straight fitting and hose? Just a free flowing system. What is the purpose of the valve.

Also you guys are talking about flow. If the purpose of this kit is to relieve pressure. Why do we need to worry about flow. Just a thought...
 
U run a valve so it don't flow all the time just when needed cause if it did u would have coolin problems ur really only lookin for relief when ur makin a hard run I ran 2 relief for flow and quick relief better safe than sorry
 
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