My bypass kit.....version 1.0

So are there any updates unbroken got any pics of the done project yet
 
Do You Alll Have Any Pics On Where And How To Secure It To The Block.. Or Soft Plug... Just Wondering Where To Tap In To The Block
 
I did the rear freeze plug and a fittin in the head but also found out opies kit open at 25psi I am gonna drop my reliefs back to about that psi range
 
unbroken... do you have a parts list yet... i seem to not be able to find a parts list... thanks...i had one set up.. but it was out of 1/2 inch water heater pipe... it seem that i could put in the t-stat housing on the side. but it would run through the hole of engine pulling braket. that was the flattest part of the t-stat. housing...but if i had to pull the motor. i could unhook it..
 
What about that Evan's coolant? It's 1/2 the price of the by-pass kits, Still pricing to flush your system out for this stuff at $260. however, it runs at 0psi.
 
oklahoma_6speed said:
unbroken... do you have a parts list yet... i seem to not be able to find a parts list... thanks...i had one set up.. but it was out of 1/2 inch water heater pipe... it seem that i could put in the t-stat housing on the side. but it would run through the hole of engine pulling braket. that was the flattest part of the t-stat. housing...but if i had to pull the motor. i could unhook it..
Click to expand...

Basically all you need is:
a plug block if you have a 12vavle or don't have a plug in the head to remove.
a radiator hose adapter
Fittings: 3/8" and 1/2"
hose
And of course the valve 530C I think the 5300A would work better but it seems to be harder to find online and costs more, but it is adjustable to below 50psi.

JasonCzerak said:
What about that Evan's coolant? It's 1/2 the price of the by-pass kits, Still pricing to flush your system out for this stuff at $260. however, it runs at 0psi.
Click to expand...

The thermostat is the problem. But its what controls the flow and allows the engine to build heat in the coolant. You still need the thermostat but you wouldn't need a radiator pressure cap.
 
White Knight said:
Basically all you need is:
a plug block if you have a 12vavle or don't have a plug in the head to remove.
a radiator hose adapter
Fittings: 3/8" and 1/2"
hose
And of course the valve 530C I think the 5300A would work better but it seems to be harder to find online and costs more, but it is adjustable to below 50psi.



The thermostat is the problem. But its what controls the flow and allows the engine to build heat in the coolant. You still need the thermostat but you wouldn't need a radiator pressure cap.
Click to expand...


you'd still use a thermostat, just that the coolant has zero water, there for no real "pressure". just flow.
 
JasonCzerak said:
you'd still use a thermostat, just that the coolant has zero water, there for no real "pressure". just flow.
Click to expand...

The thermostat is the problem though. It won't flow enough and the pressure builds behind it. The 15psi generated by the radiator cap is no big deal.
 
2818_199906950098_639050098_6673990_647902_n.jpg


I made this piece for my dads 6.7 and have some other people interested. Any suggestions what kind of bung I should weld on for bypass use? 3/8npt or 1/2npt?? Does it matter where the bung is located? The opie kit is close to the rad but I think that is for the hose to make a smooth bend.

Thanks
 
Very nice piece there! :bow:

I doubt it makes much of a difference, but personally I would go with the 1/2"NPT to keep more options open.

bump
 
Wasn't sure if I had enough firewall clearance, but it's looking good... prv set @32psi.

A052809-3.jpg


Thanks for all the ideas!

:Cheer:
 
Another thought, Cummins sells a coolant plug kit for the rear of the block for industrial severe use 5.9L applications I can't remember the part #. You could do that as well. Anybody using a pressure regulator so you just vent excessive pressure back into radiator.
 
not enoughsmoke said:
I did the rear freeze plug and a fittin in the head but also found out opies kit open at 25psi I am gonna drop my reliefs back to about that psi range
Click to expand...

Somebody is lieing to you that is not what my bypasses open at. The two most important things about the bypass it the pressure setting and how much it can flow.
 
Opie said:
Somebody is lieing to you that is not what my bypasses open at. The two most important things about the bypass it the pressure setting and how much it can flow.
Click to expand...

for 500 buck i will take my chances on my own desgin it works fine
 
might be a stupid question.. Is there a reason no one is using hard lines? I can't stand the hoses running everwhere. Makes for a whole lotta ugly underneath the hood. And I'm a bit of a routing nut.
 
I didn't wanna spend that much time makin hard lines. I use 1/2 hose same as air dog style fuel hose with all pushlocks and that was the neatest I could get it u can't see it for the dual pumps and air intake horn
 
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