new engine break in...

dsl kicks gas

dsl kicks gas

Runnin on Broke
Joined
Aug 13, 2007
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546
well lets hear it, whats your opinion on breaking in a new engine, oil, adtive's, and what have you.........


i built a new (stock bottom end) 12v for my 98 and i want to know what everybody recomends for a "break in period" :tree:
 
I was told drive it easy for 1K miles nice and easy. Then give it hell after that...change oil after 1K to.

I don't know how long I can keep that up with my new motor. I was running delo 15W40 with a bottle of lucas engine break in formula.

Sticky what does Garmon suggest for break in on higher performance builds?
 
Man i really don't know...i was just jokin around when i posted what i posted..but i just got finished building a hopefully 900hp commonrail just got it running today..we got a little more work to do under the hood.but he said it will be on the dyno..Dyno day..so i dunno
 
we always take it easy on the engine for the first 1k miles and change the oil after the first 1k miles and make sure to check the other fluids as well.
 
you always want to let the engine get worked in easy and not pushing it hard to let thing seat themselves in place correctly before you go out and hammer on them.
 
i figured the 1000 mile an oil change was a given lol what kind of additives would you recomend, i used schafers molly adtive on the engine i built for the puller
 
Royal Purple engine break in oil.it is what i will use, then i am going to Royal Purple Synthetic oil after proper break in.as far as fuel additive i use Rolling Big Power fuel additive.
 
I think all of you would cringe at what happens at the factory.....
1. motoring dyno spins the engine
2. set throttle to 100%
3. once oil pressure is present for x amount of time, key on and let it rev to redline!
 
thats a little different than in a truck, its under a constand load for x amount of time and so on......
 
In college I worked at a tractor dealer and when customers came in complaining their new tractor was using oil they would hook it to a PTO dyno and work the snot out of that engine at full throttle. Redline to almost stall for a hour, was fun as hell to watch. Never used a drop of oil after that, but I imagine if the customer saw what I did they would freak out. I know modern gasoline engines come from the factory with synthetic with no issues due to advanced honing and ring composition. Always wondered if modern diesels still needed to get the rings set in though.
 
make sure to work some zddp into the mix, regardless of the break in procedure to choose. I'll be running some delo/ cam shield for my break in. Plan on driving it pretty easy with varying load for about 100 miles, then normal driving.
 
My engine builder told me to try and not let it idle the first 20 hours and take it easy also.Change the oil at 1k and check valves and check them again at 3k on the second oil change. I started beat the chit out of mine at 900 miles or so and the more i beat on it the faster the blow by and oil burning went away. Just keep an eye on your oil level first 5-7k and do some retorques on the head too.
 
i think the procedure for new hg would apply here as well.then change oil 1000k.
 
In diesel school we saw many different procedures for break in of new engines. after starting and checking for leaks, coolant level and oil level, John Deer recommends running the engine at rated load and RPM for 15 minutes on some of the engines we rebuilt. Most of my friends when they drive new truck or break in new engines, hook up to a gooseneck with max loads for a few hundred miles. This really helps to seat the rings and get the carbon built up around the top ring land. changing the oil at 1k is a good thing, it will look like a gallon of glitter was added to you oil from the rings seating.


As far as additives, do not run anything that makes the oil super thick or radically changes the viscosity. This will keep the rings from seating into the cylinder wall properly and will lend itself to more blow by. Zinc and phosphorous alone more or less just get the oil back to factory specs from a few years ago plus a little. Steer clear of a lot of friction reducing additives during break in.

Zach
 
Hamilton Cams said:
In diesel school we saw many different procedures for break in of new engines. after starting and checking for leaks, coolant level and oil level, John Deer recommends running the engine at rated load and RPM for 15 minutes on some of the engines we rebuilt. Most of my friends when they drive new truck or break in new engines, hook up to a gooseneck with max loads for a few hundred miles. This really helps to seat the rings and get the carbon built up around the top ring land. changing the oil at 1k is a good thing, it will look like a gallon of glitter was added to you oil from the rings seating.


As far as additives, do not run anything that makes the oil super thick or radically changes the viscosity. This will keep the rings from seating into the cylinder wall properly and will lend itself to more blow by. Zinc and phosphorous alone more or less just get the oil back to factory specs from a few years ago plus a little. Steer clear of a lot of friction reducing additives during break in.

Zach
Click to expand...

So your saying ZDDP is fine during the break in?

I'm gonna run the Delo for my first few hundred miles and then go with the superslick stuff after...Just making sure the ZDDP can be run from Jumpstreet...?
 
Yes ZDDP is fine. Just make sure the ZDDP you use is not super thick and that it won't make the viscosity higher.

Zach
 
nrose07 said:
In college I worked at a tractor dealer and when customers came in complaining their new tractor was using oil they would hook it to a PTO dyno and work the snot out of that engine at full throttle. Redline to almost stall for a hour, was fun as hell to watch. Never used a drop of oil after that, but I imagine if the customer saw what I did they would freak out. I know modern gasoline engines come from the factory with synthetic with no issues due to advanced honing and ring composition. Always wondered if modern diesels still needed to get the rings set in though.
Click to expand...

:hehe: :hehe:

I love dynoing new tractors...except I don't take them to almost stalling...

Let them warm up, then take it to rated PTO HP and RPM, and let it pull until the dyno gets too warm, then let the dyno cool down, and pull it at peak torque until the dyno warms up again...repeat.

I'd love to be able to dyno my race engine with our PTO Dyno, but it will only handle about 400hp:D
Chris
 
Heat it up, check the head studs. Run it a bit, change the oil. And run it however the heck you want is how I do it.
 
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