new engine break in...

break the cam in, 20 min at 2000 rpm, go out and pull to redline, drop to idle, pull to redline drop to idle. do that 15, 20 times, change the oil and you'll have one strong running motor.
 
Amazing how there are SO many different opinions on this...I guess it is true what they say....They are like A holes!! LOL

How is anyone really supposed to know the correct way unless some geeky a$$ engineer thats smarter than everyone tells you its so.....?
 
my advise comes from my teacher who owned a machine shop for 25 years, thats how he taught me, ive had good luck with it, and will continue to do it that way.
 
well the facts are, how do you break in a cam? or a new hg? how to prep a turbo?the rings are the only difference (to a point).i will also say let the oil pump prime the engine before run time.
 
well the facts are, how do you break in a cam? or a new hg? how to prep a turbo?the rings are the only difference (to a point).i will also say let the oil pump prime the engine before run time.

i dont break in turbos, check for oil, check for leaks, and let it see 60psi :rockwoot:
 
my advise comes from my teacher who owned a machine shop for 25 years, thats how he taught me, ive had good luck with it, and will continue to do it that way.

For the record, I was questioning you or anybody's knowledge...Just simply stating that there are so many...

:Cheer:
 
Well i'm a trainer for Cummins and train the techs that rebuilt cummins engine and i tell them that as soon that the engine reached the operation temp. check for liquid leak ,then load the engine pulling the maximum load for first 50 to 100mi.highest gear within normal operatin rpm.It is necessary to operate the engine at or near full throttle at 75 to 85 of rated speed.Do not idle the engine for more than 5 minutes at any one time during the first 100 miles...
 
i am not saying you have to break a turbo in.i am talking about engines in general.and how to break them in.you sure prelube the turbo.same as engine.and i understand what you are sayin
 
i am not saying you have to break a turbo in.i am talking about engines in general.and how to break them in.you sure prelube the turbo.same as engine.and i understand what you are sayin

yeah i usually ultra slick the turbo. my truck sits for so damn long tho it pretty much starts up dry everytime i take it out.
 
im a mechanic and this is the 10th or 11th engine i have built, i started this thread because i wanted to see what everyone's opinions were, from the looks of it everybody has their own way lol


the way i have always done it is use reg. 15w40, start engine let idle check for leaks run engine under normal conditions(through entire rpm range) for first 300-400 miles, then load it down, and drive it like you mean business(i try to keep it in the peak hp/torque range) ay 1k mileschange oil torque head, check everything then its good to go
 
Man i really don't know...i was just jokin around when i posted what i posted..but i just got finished building a hopefully 900hp commonrail just got it running today..we got a little more work to do under the hood.but he said it will be on the dyno..Dyno day..so i dunno

Installed engine 10/11
Drove to work and back 10/14 (30 mi.)
Drove to dyno 10/17 and re-torqued head (90 mi)
Dynoed 3 times 10/18 all ~800 hp
Drove home 10/18 (90 mi.)
Drove to track 10/21 11.53 @ 119 turned down (10 mi.)

:evil
 
break the cam in, 20 min at 2000 rpm, go out and pull to redline, drop to idle, pull to redline drop to idle. do that 15, 20 times, change the oil and you'll have one strong running motor.

Now that I think about it. Thats exactly how we did my motor in my green truck.
 
most of the engines we rebuild at our truck shop, get started, ran for a bit and checked for leaks, then they get hooked to 80,000lbs and head across the country lol.
 
My plan is while the engine is on the engine stand to fill up the coolant and heat to 200* or so about an hour, retorque the head and then repeat the process again. Install the engine, after start up break the cam in at 1800-2000rpm for about 20 minutes, change oil, lash valves and retorque the head again. Drive the truck about 1000 miles, change the oil, lash valves and retorque the head and do a thorough inspection of everything.

Hook to girlfriend's horse trailer that weighs about 15k and put one full tank of fuel through the truck with it in tow.
 
My plan is while the engine is on the engine stand to fill up the coolant and heat to 200* or so about an hour, retorque the head and then repeat the process again. Install the engine, after start up break the cam in at 1800-2000rpm for about 20 minutes, change oil, lash valves and retorque the head again. Drive the truck about 1000 miles, change the oil, lash valves and retorque the head and do a thorough inspection of everything.

Hook to girlfriend's horse trailer that weighs about 15k and put one full tank of fuel through the truck with it in tow.



Kinda like'n this plan....With the exception of the cam break in....The new F1 H2 Spartan cam and tappet set doesn't require a break-in.....

May hook to the trailer sooner than 1k miles though...
 
How do you break in a motor that isn't in a "streetable" truck? like DR. Performance kinda truck? or Darren's S-10?
 
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