newbie ?'s

does anyone have a stock ride height or leveled in the front and running 20'' wheels? what size in width could i run in a 20'' in wheel? and what size tire? truck is stock ride height, maybe leveled in the future. 2005 silverado dmax. thnks
 
20x9 or 10.... probably no bigger than a 305/55-20 or the rubbing could get bad. That depends on your offset too.

Converter is a waste if you don't put decent clutches in. Mine was wasting clutches before stock converter ever went bad. Put tge money away, plan on building it right if you're gonna throw any kind of power at it.
 
thanks guys. yea im gonna save and do the tranny once. im thinkin from what ive read, im gonna do a suncoast billet flex plate w/arp bolts. 1056 converter and a gmax clutch kit. then efi live. ive only had the truck a month and im chompin at the bit for more power, im trying to tell myself a little at a time. but i want it all now, just dont have the money yet.
 
I have 20x9's and 305/50s (32x12) on my truck with the front end sitting stock.. No rubbing at all. I'm also running a street tire. It's all about what type of tires you want what wheels and ultimately the plans/goals for your truck. A 305/55 is a 34x12 I believe I tried a set on at stock height and they rubbed like a sob.
 
2k5dmax said:
any idea how much side wall there is with that wheel/tire size compared to a stock wheel/tire combo? thanks.
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The stock tire (245/75/16) sidewall is 7.23".

The 275/55/20's have a 5.95" sidewall.

You have to figure there is an 1.5" difference in overall tire height between the two (30.5" - 32" respectively).
 
noticed my trans slippin the other day from 3rd to 4th. should i complain to the dealer and have them fix it? i have a 2yr 24,000mile warranty. ive read this is common. i want to build the trans anyway, does anyone think the dealer would go for it if i buy the suncoast goodies and in return they dont charge me labor?
 
2k5dmax said:
noticed my trans slippin the other day from 3rd to 4th. should i complain to the dealer and have them fix it? i have a 2yr 24,000mile warranty. ive read this is common. i want to build the trans anyway, does anyone think the dealer would go for it if i buy the suncoast goodies and in return they dont charge me labor?
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You can try it. That might be a tough sale though. Also no one in Upstate seems to have earned a serious reputation for built Allisons. Lots of people are still making the trek down to maryland to have George Alexander do em.

Where abouts in Upstate are you?
 
i live in broadalbin. work in gloversville. if the dealer thing doesnt pan out i will prolly have todd brownell do it. he is a tranny mechanic at Rowland Street in ballston spa.
 
how can i tell if my torsion bars are cranked up? truck looks like its damn close to level. dont wanna waste $ on leveling keys if its already turned up and level. i measured the bolts, 3/4'' from top of bolt to the key where it threads in. thanks
 
If the t-bar bolts are in the whole way the bars are cranked.

You're going the wrong direction though...
 
oh! well i suppose that is an option. not sure i wanna lower my 4 wheel drive truck, but i dont want it jacked to the moon either, i will think about that. well if i do level it, torsion keys ok or do i need to get upper control arms,etc.? ive read the keys arent the best option. just want it leveled so i can put 20'' wheels on it and not have it rub.thanks
 
tranny...efi...burkhards high flow intake...swiss cheese your air box...lift pump. This is a good recipe to start with.
 
I'm running 20" wheels with 305/50/20's with no issues.

If your bars are not cranked, and the truck is close to level, I would let it alone. Keep in mind that the change in front end geometry creates undue wear on the suspension components. Also if you plans to run it hard in 4wd the CV shafts should be close to level. Personally I don't like a leveled truck at rest because when towing it squats.

To answer your question, it's better to run leveling keys (green keys) than to crank the stock keys.
 
gonna buy a lift pump. just read tons of posts on airdogs that have failed. buddy of mine that has a 900 hp dodge, runs a walbro. he almost took my head off when i told him i was gonna buy an airdog2. should i do a walbro? way cheaper in price too!
 
A cummins is completely different that a duramax in almost every aspect. Our tanks don't have in tank pumps like the cummins do. The injection pump pulls fuel from the tank and that is the exact reason why you want an air dog, fass, ppe etc. to take the strain off of your injection pump. I'm hate to burst you and your buddies bubble but I highly doubt he has a 900hp cummins that is being fueled by a walbro.. Especially if he thinks its going to work better than a fuel system that not only pulls fuel but filters water and particles as well.
 
2k5dmax said:
gonna buy a lift pump. just read tons of posts on airdogs that have failed. buddy of mine that has a 900 hp dodge, runs a walbro. he almost took my head off when i told him i was gonna buy an airdog2. should i do a walbro? way cheaper in price too!
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Who is your buddy? What truck does he run? You may want to start ignoring his advice sooner than later.

If you want an elcheapo lift pump. Buy a PPE and when that fails buy a raptor, airdog, fass etc.

Also, start saving your pennies for headgaskets, its an LLY, headgasket failure is virtually inevitable.

LlyDMax said:
A cummins is completely different that a duramax in almost every aspect. Our tanks don't have in tank pumps like the cummins do. The injection pump pulls fuel from the tank and that is the exact reason why you want an air dog, fass, ppe etc. to take the strain off of your injection pump. I'm hate to burst you and your buddies bubble but I highly doubt he has a 900hp cummins that is being fueled by a walbro.. Especially if he thinks its going to work better than a fuel system that not only pulls fuel but filters water and particles as well.
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I agree.
 
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