Next Upgrade Suggestion?

700 sportsman

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Dec 20, 2011
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156
Hey guys I'm currently running pump mods, an Air Dog 150, a Denny T Stage 2 fuel pin, stock non-intercooled injectors, headstuds, 4k gov. spring, and 60 lb. springs as well as a 60mm GDS upgrade on the H1C. It runs quite will and laid down 334hp on the dyno, but I'm ready to take it up a bit more. It is swapped into my '96 GMC and I am extremely strapped for space so an intercooler is virtually going to be out of the question. I am looking to go to some bigger injectors and a turbo but I'm not sure if it would be wise to get a nice water meth set-up now and then the injectors or get the injectors and see where I'm at and go from there? Also what direction should I head with the timing as I currently haven't touched it!

Any suggestions or other ideas would be appreciated!

Tyler
 
Bigger injectors, advance timing. Then if you still want more, do the water/meth.
 

I'd put that guy right there with the trans/tune/lift pump-only LB7 that made like 680 rwhp at Alligator. I bet the power curve was nice and smooth with a 366 and stock sticks on a 12mm VE truck, too.

That combo may be passable for YouTube and the uninformed masses at any given dyno day, but it's far from a legitimate recommendation for a proper setup. I'd like to see some performance based numbers to go along with that dyno figure.

This rash of budget, POS, two-pump-chump dyno queens is a fukkin embarrassment to all of us. I swear, every time I see a video of some dumb phuck with a bone stock truck that bolts on water-meth, propane, and 4 stages of spray for a dyno run (and the ensuing HP claim), I get a little closer to selling my chit and going to pulling antique tractors.
 
That combo may be passable for YouTube and the uninformed masses at any given dyno day, but it's far from a legitimate recommendation for a proper setup. I'd like to see some performance based numbers to go along with that dyno figure.

This rash of budget, POS, two-pump-chump dyno queens is a fukkin embarrassment to all of us. I swear, every time I see a video of some dumb phuck with a bone stock truck that bolts on water-meth, propane, and 4 stages of spray for a dyno run (and the ensuing HP claim), I get a little closer to selling my chit and going to pulling antique tractors.

:clap:
 
I wonder if I put my mess on that same dyno, would it put down 600ish HP?
 
I'd put that guy right there with the trans/tune/lift pump-only LB7 that made like 680 rwhp at Alligator. I bet the power curve was nice and smooth with a 366 and stock sticks on a 12mm VE truck, too.

That combo may be passable for YouTube and the uninformed masses at any given dyno day, but it's far from a legitimate recommendation for a proper setup. I'd like to see some performance based numbers to go along with that dyno figure.

This rash of budget, POS, two-pump-chump dyno queens is a fukkin embarrassment to all of us. I swear, every time I see a video of some dumb phuck with a bone stock truck that bolts on water-meth, propane, and 4 stages of spray for a dyno run (and the ensuing HP claim), I get a little closer to selling my chit and going to pulling antique tractors.

Wow, you really don't know who you're messing with, do you? He is a member of virtually almost all of the 1st Gen forums since 2007, and went 11.80's with the same setup in a '90 Dodge D250 with nitrous. I met him at TS a few years ago, and he is a good kid. Almost 30 deg of timing, 55psi, AND w/m, and you're saying he can't make 430rwhp? Really?
 
I'd put that guy right there with the trans/tune/lift pump-only LB7 that made like 680 rwhp at Alligator. I bet the power curve was nice and smooth with a 366 and stock sticks on a 12mm VE truck, too.

That combo may be passable for YouTube and the uninformed masses at any given dyno day, but it's far from a legitimate recommendation for a proper setup. I'd like to see some performance based numbers to go along with that dyno figure.

This rash of budget, POS, two-pump-chump dyno queens is a fukkin embarrassment to all of us. I swear, every time I see a video of some dumb phuck with a bone stock truck that bolts on water-meth, propane, and 4 stages of spray for a dyno run (and the ensuing HP claim), I get a little closer to selling my chit and going to pulling antique tractors.


You just must be a special kind of stupid... Selling your stuff and quit nit picking everyone else's ride. Seems as if post after post i read nothing anyone does is plausible to you.

On other hand i am digging the old school sleeper look on the truck. Wouldn't change it one bit.
 
Wow, you really don't know who you're messing with, do you?

I have to assume Michael was generalizing, not necessarily "messing with" anyone in particular, whether that dyno tends to read high or not doesn't matter, unrational amounts of timing, water methanol, or nitrous do not apply to the topic of this thread. I find it odd what you thought your article would add pertinent information to the OP's goals. Are you saying he should increase the timing to 30° and run a 50/50 blend of water methanol for a street truck?
 
I'd appreciate any constructive ideas guys instead of worthless material I'm not interested in.
 
JQ, take a minute to get the twist out of your panties, bud. I'm not trying to call out (or messing with) anyone in particular, you most likely just took that personally because you spray that 1st gen to death. I'm not interested in any of the builder's accolades, especially the length of time he's been a member of any forum. I am absolutely criticizing the build style of that truck in the video - stock everything, big charger, big timing, injectables. If that was a test run on the way to an efficient build then so be it, but don't use that as an example for someone genuinely asking for advice. Weston hit the nail on the head, that video did nothing towards pointing the OP in the right direction.

For the record, Scat and JQ, I am not disputing the power claim, and I have no idea what you are talking about. I question claims from time to time, as the vast majority of people on the Internet are incompetent. Wild claims abound, and I'm not the only one that calls people on things like that (especially around here). If you still feel wronged, feel free to fill out a standard "Hurt Feelings Report" and forward it to an admin.

OP, I'll try to bring this home and stop the derail. I'm not a pro, but here's what I learned in my days as a 1st-genner. The VE (in 12mm form) 12V is not known for fueling hard at high RPM or spooling big chargers quickly, so the idea is to fuel hard and get spooled down low because you have a short window in which to make power. I also learned that once you get over 400 rwhp, you start fighting tooth and nail for more power. The charger I ran was an HTT 62/65/14 and it was great, it spooled fast and the truck ran clean. Problem is, if that truck made 400 HP I'd be shocked. If you really want to make more HP (useable, efficient HP), you need compounds. One of the guys in this thread has, IMO, one of the nicest and best-built/setup 1st Gen trucks on the planet. It makes great, clean HP, and backs it up with solid time slips and a smooth dyno curve. That's what you should be shooting for.

What are your uses and goals for the truck?
 
A small S300 and a bit larger injector should help, but any kind of heat reduction for the intake air would be a good idea. Whatever injector you go with, be sure to use the wider cone angle, do not go back to a 145° cone angle.
 
JQ, take a minute to get the twist out of your panties, bud. I'm not trying to call out (or messing with) anyone in particular, you most likely just took that personally because you spray that 1st gen to death. I'm not interested in any of the builder's accolades, especially the length of time he's been a member of any forum. I am absolutely criticizing the build style of that truck in the video - stock everything, big charger, big timing, injectables. If that was a test run on the way to an efficient build then so be it, but don't use that as an example for someone genuinely asking for advice. Weston hit the nail on the head, that video did nothing towards pointing the OP in the right direction.

For the record, Scat and JQ, I am not disputing the power claim, and I have no idea what you are talking about. I question claims from time to time, as the vast majority of people on the Internet are incompetent. Wild claims abound, and I'm not the only one that calls people on things like that (especially around here). If you still feel wronged, feel free to fill out a standard "Hurt Feelings Report" and forward it to an admin.

OP, I'll try to bring this home and stop the derail. I'm not a pro, but here's what I learned in my days as a 1st-genner. The VE (in 12mm form) 12V is not known for fueling hard at high RPM or spooling big chargers quickly, so the idea is to fuel hard and get spooled down low because you have a short window in which to make power. I also learned that once you get over 400 rwhp, you start fighting tooth and nail for more power. The charger I ran was an HTT 62/65/14 and it was great, it spooled fast and the truck ran clean. Problem is, if that truck made 400 HP I'd be shocked. If you really want to make more HP (useable, efficient HP), you need compounds. One of the guys in this thread has, IMO, one of the nicest and best-built/setup 1st Gen trucks on the planet. It makes great, clean HP, and backs it up with solid time slips and a smooth dyno curve. That's what you should be shooting for.

What are your uses and goals for the truck?

Your criticizing my build because it don't have compounds, bigger injectors, and a 5k dollar built trans?
 
Your criticizing my build because it don't have compounds, bigger injectors, and a 5k dollar built trans?

Common sense would suggest he is referring to your setup not being relative to the goals or questions originally asked. And that in fact what you have done is noteworthy, but most likely not the most "street friendly" path to achieve that power level. I am a big fan of cheap horsepower, but to imply that some of the things used to make this possible is the best path for others, well sometimes it isn't very reasonable at all.
 
Common sense would suggest he is referring to your setup not being relative to the goals or questions originally asked. And that in fact what you have done is noteworthy, but most likely not the most "street friendly" path to achieve that power level. I am a big fan of cheap horsepower, but to imply that some of the things used to make this possible is the best path for others, well sometimes it isn't very reasonable at all.

:thankyou2:
 
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