No start and rough running issues

Jim Fulmer

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May 6, 2006
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Went over to look and only look at an 05' C/R today that had issues, it will not start without ether, lift pump (in tank) is new, new filter and no apparent leaks, fuel to the pump, fuel in the inj pump return ect.

Once you get it running it idles fine but it you brink the R's up then back down it almost hangs a little then has a stutter in it as it come back down to idle. Read up on search about sucking air ect but I'm thinking relief valve or CP3, what are your thoughts.......PS, no codes either.

Thanks for any help.....12V's are so easy :)

Jim
 
Id look at cross tube o-rings first and then lean on CP3 or injectors.
 
Thanks Chris, I'll look it up in the service manual as I have a PDF of it now!

Jim
 
Nope, this guy just bought it, it has 200K on it.....can't be that hard but it's not my truck to mess with, if I do that it will cost him $'s.

Jim
 
My dad called me about it this morning. It's listed as needing an engine overhaul. I believe it's an auto tranny. He wanted to know if I would put a 12 valve in it if he bought it. I asked him how much money he had.
 
I'd say injectors, test for return rate.

everyone says injectors first. Do you know how many trucks with hard starts Ive fixed with nothing more than new o-rings? Probably 25 this year alone. Most of the time I was the second diagnosis after being told to get injectors.
 
Cross tube orings???? as in its leaking fuel externally and not only that would have no relation to a hard start. Bad seal of the cross tube to an injector yes.
 
Cross tube orings???? as in its leaking fuel externally and not only that would have no relation to a hard start. Bad seal of the cross tube to an injector yes.

yes cross tube o-rings that have dried up and let the fuel drain back and not seated well to the injectors. Replacing o-rings and retorque on the tubes fixes alot of hard starters.
 
Possible that the retorque was the fix? Im with joesixpack, I dont understand how the o-rings would cause a hard start.
 
% on the retorque. The ball check has a pretty decent spring on it and dont see it siphoning down. Just try blowing through one. And maintaining back pressure, well I've ran a drilled one for a couple years, no starting issues.

BUT......25 trucks hard to argue with that.
 
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% on the retorque. The ball check has a pretty decent spring on it and dont see it siphoning down. Just try blowing through one. And maintaining back pressure, well I've ran a drilled one for a couple years, no starting issues.

BUT......25 trucks hard to argue with that.

Yeah right........just cause I live on a dirt road apparently it means that I don't know anything........:umno:

I also don't like to spend my customer's money on unnecessary items
 
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Chris, are you talking about the high pressure connector tubes to the injectors? I've never swapped a set of injectors but I see what you need to do and the special tool to do it in the service manual I have.

One the re-torque are you'll talking about the B nuts on the connector tubes at the cyl head?

Jim
 
Jim, you don't have to have the tool, it just makes the job alot easier and makes #6 so much easier.
 
Cool beans, been wanting to work on a C/R for a while, got lots of time on my hands now to do it.

Jim
 
if there's fuel leaking to oil, then I would look at o-rings... if the thing just hard starts and misses, I'd look at injectors
 
It's odd, you have to ether it get get to fire, once you shut it off it's slow to get it to start again, after 15 min or so forget it....ether time!

It's one of those (I wish it were here) to play with things, trying to save him some useless money spent! I hate throwing parts at something, reminds me of the military!

It idles perfect, even doing the injector line feel it's all good!

Jim
 
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