P-pump on 6.7 with stock internals.

Properly fueled(p-pump and modest injectors) it should sound like my 02 motor.
With mild porting, bowl modification,a modest cam, 24V rods,and a small set of twins, I would think it should make a fine daily driver. It may not like to rev as high, but that's really a non issue for me. The extra cu/in should help the spool and increase torque all through the power band. Or am I not looking at this correctly.
 
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RonA said:
Properly fueled(p-pump and modest injectors) it should sound like my 02 motor.
With mild porting, bowl modification,a modest cam, 24V rods,and a small set of twins, I would think it should make a fine daily driver. It may not like to rev as high, but that's really a non issue for me. The extra cu/in should help the spool and increase torque all through the power band. Or am I not looking at this correctly.
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Thats the way i see it. I think a 6.7 would be perfect for a daily driver with twins. You could prolly even drive a larger set of twins easier if you ever felt the need.
 
Simply having the longer stroke alone would be helpfull if you're looking for added torque in a daily driver/ tow rig. I would be more than happy to run the 6.7 crank and the smaller bore of the 5.9 on the street.

If I had the coin.

And on that note, I'd run a 6.7 block and a 5.9 crank...if I had the money to build a fully custom high RPM engine. Seems perfect for a LSR truck.
 
That was discussed, but I wonder if taking 4mm off the top of the block might be an issue.
 
I take it the deck is that much taller? I have not researched it much, but 4mm seems like a lot, custom pistons yet again...
 
Hey Ron, I can only assume you have seen this in the classifieds...

http://www.competitiondiesel.com/forums/showthread.php?t=70910

You can always start to gather parts and see if it works out.
IIRC, putting a p-pump on the CR is a PITA, wouldn't the 6.7 be the same? And I'm sure half of the reason you asked the question is piston bowl and injector related.

Obviously I have no answers, but would like some. LOL
 
would you be fitting an isb 24v head to the 6.7 block? if its possible it may save some of the headaches, but again the piston design comes into play
 
SHughes said:
Hey Ron, I can only assume you have seen this in the classifieds...

http://www.competitiondiesel.com/forums/showthread.php?t=70910

You can always start to gather parts and see if it works out.
IIRC, putting a p-pump on the CR is a PITA, wouldn't the 6.7 be the same? And I'm sure half of the reason you asked the question is piston bowl and injector related.

Obviously I have no answers, but would like some. LOL
Click to expand...

Don't think your going to get any answers. I think it's a new enough thing that people aren't going to share. That's the way it was with p-pump conversions 5-6 years ago.
 
I've done some research on this. After seeing the cost of the parts and the potential heaed akes that would be in volved, it would be much much easier to just find a 6.7 crank, swap the straight cut gear for the helical cut on the 12v and VP24V, use the 12 or 24V rods, and just use a custom set of pistons to make up for the stroke difference. It will not be 6.7L, but it will be closer. I have plans of doing this to an older VE 12V block I have and boring it .040". If I remember right it was around a 6.2L. I do not know if the 12V block would be able to handle the same bore size as the 6.7L. My plans were to use an 06 CR head, but then again I'm still up in the air about that it.
 
i have bought a complete 6.7 motor and will be swapping it in and replacing my 5.9 and running it with 04.5 electronics with a set of twins and 12v rods. might be a while going to take my time and build it right. i have thought of buying the block head and all from dan as well i have a 5.9 crank sitting here in the garage.
 
Been doing alot of research on this. A couple of shops have been particularly helpfull. M&J Tool, and Woodruff Diesel have given me enough info to get started. I did not know the timing gears, housing, and front cover were different. The fix is costly, but i didn't really figure i would be able to just swap my current conversion over. It appears that there is an issue with trying to make alot of power with the 6.7 crank, rod, piston combo. I guess it's not right for higher rpm. Ran into a couple of shops that were border line nasty and it brought back memories from the other conversion 6 years ago. I was prepared, laughed, and added them to my ***hole shop list. If I am ever forced to buy a newer model truck my list will save me alot of grief.
Looking forward to having a new motor. Hopefully It won't take quite as many tries to get it right this time.
 
I'd like to see how long one would hang on with simply a switch to billet rods. Its not hard to see how those same stock rods would crap out with more bore and stroke.
 
Yes, it would be interesting. I'd love to see if i could squeeze my daily driver power level up another 100hp. I could hit 900 with a cam change, and be a bit faster spooling with this stock bottomed '02 motor. If I thought it would hold together a 6.7 might make it even more driveable and be able to hit the 1k mark without the need for electronics, valet switches, or nitrous. Cool, but that and $3.79 will get you the same cup of coffee at Starbucks that $3.79 does by itself.(I guessed on the price of the coffee. I've never actually been inside a Starbucks.)
 
RonA, where you just preaching that the P-pump 12v motor is more reliable? how come your rebuilding after 80,000 miles? :poke:
 
JasonCzerak said:
RonA, where you just preaching that the P-pump 12v motor is more reliable? how come your rebuilding after 80,000 miles? :poke:
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The past 6 years has been like going to Diesel 101. I think it's time to take the final exam before I move on to a different hobby. I think a new motor designed to be a good daily driver at a modest power level is a good project.
 
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