Please help, 12v running hot

Sounds to me like you have a guage issue of some sort hopefully that is all it is!
 
I went to the dealer to get a sendee today and they want $85 and it will take 2 days. Cummins mid south only wants $52 and it will take them a day.
 
If you still have the diesel cluster you can swap the coolant gauge from the diesel cluster into your gasser cluster. You have to disassemble most of the cluster, but its not the hard to do. Be a way to eliminate the gauge as the problem if they do read different......
 
npe3484 said:
Do you have access to an IR thermometer?
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I used to have one but not anymore. I will see if I can run one down.
Diesel Nut said:
If you still have the diesel cluster you can swap the coolant gauge from the diesel cluster into your gasser cluster. You have to disassemble most of the cluster, but its not the hard to do. Be a way to eliminate the gauge as the problem if they do read different......
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I dont have it the truck had a gas cluster when I got it.
 
For those of you running a secondary gauge where are you putting the sender?
 
Too bad your not closer, I have 2 extra clusters.... Both with bad speedos. One with a crummy tach......... Kept em for this exact reason.
 
I am actually moving to California in August but I will be a good bit south of you in Camp Pendleton.
 
Spend $20 and get a cheap aftermarket gauge to temperary replace the sending unit, that will eliminate the gasser gauge and sending unit being possibilities
 
PRINCETON_JAKE said:
Spend $20 and get a cheap aftermarket gauge to temperary replace the sending unit, that will eliminate the gasser gauge and sending unit being possibilities
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Where would be the best place put it? I got the fittings to eliminate that crap hose between the head and water neck today. I could always get a 1/4" npt plug and put a temporary sender in the front of the head or water neck.
 
2141pete said:
Where would be the best place put it? I got the fittings to eliminate that crap hose between the head and water neck today. I could always get a 1/4" npt plug and put a temporary sender in the front of the head or water neck.
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Don't know if it's "best" but I was just thinking that would be an easy place to put it.
 
Ok guys I am lost now, at least I think. I pulled apart the front end today to check out an unrelated jingling sound in the timing case. I made no changes to the cooling system other than getting rid of the bypass or check valve or whatever it is at the front of the head and goes to the water neck. I just used open fittings so there is nothing to disrupt that small amount of flow. I started the truck and let it idle for 10 minutes with the AC on trying to get it warmed up then drove a mile home and it didn't even come close to 190. It got to 140 very slow and the first green mark was as hot as I could get it. My new sender won't be here until tomorrow and I will get it out on the highway after that. I just thought it was kind of odd that removing that would cool it down so much.


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the bypass is necessary.

you also may have some air trapped in cooling circuit as well with as much as the system has been opened and closed.
 
start the truck cold with the radiator cap off and block off the coolers with something solid. Once it hits 180 or so and the t-stat opens up the fluid level should drop and force the air out. Top it off and let it run watching the gauge for 15 minutes or so and see what happens.
 
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