Pulling and suspension set-up

G

getblown5.9

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A buddy of mine just brought home 880lbs of hanging weights from Ohio for me, and I have adjustable rear bumpstops. One set allows for an inch of travel, while the other gives the rear of the truck about 2" of lift. Would it be worth my time to pull the leveling kit out of the front so that when I hang the weights it sags down nice and low?

Does this give the truck any advantage or will it just make it look bada$$ LOL I know all the gasser trucks will have the rear of the truck on like 15 leaf packs jacked up 8" in the rear with the fronts dragging the ground, and I know leafs are better than bumpstops, but new springs are not in my budget for this season.

This suspension will be combined with the addition of a roll pan to get the hitch moved forward another 8" also.
 
I think the lower you can get the front of the truck and maintain a good hitch height it trys to keep the front of the sled elevated somewhat to give the puller some advantage???
Brandon
 
Signature600 said:
I assume the weights got there OK? Look alright to you?

Chris
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I won't get them til tonight, but Travis called me after he met with you and told me he got 'em. Thanks again dude for the sweet hook-up :ft:

I don't know much about farm stuff, but he said its a great deal!
 
Good, glad I can help. If you need any idea for using that bracket I sent you, PM Brandon (97' CTD) and he can show you what he made;) Looks pretty clean when it's done if you ask me!

Chris
 
Brandon...send me those pics!

My neighbor and I will be fabbing up the mounting system soon.
 
TJ I have consulted what I classify as an expert. Hopefully he will get back to me.

What you ahve to consider is there any reason to do it? Does it increase the lever arm? The DMAX guys do it to save their front CV joints. Does it make the front end of the truck harder to lift? If it doesn't then short of making the driveline angle for the front shaft it doesn't help much. I would get rid of the lift blocks though.
 
uh oh...look what i got

215341.jpg
 
i have a dip tank full of gloss black rust inhibitor...that will take care of them :D
 
Those look heavier than 100's....maybe its just cuz their so thick. I need to find some more weight for my truck too. How good of a deal did you get? I see them on Ebay cheap occassionally, but if their not close, shipping sucks up all the savings....
 
JFlagg said:
Those look heavier than 100's....maybe its just cuz their so thick. I need to find some more weight for my truck too. How good of a deal did you get? I see them on Ebay cheap occassionally, but if their not close, shipping sucks up all the savings....
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Sikeston Has brand new JD wedge stile(there not like the old longer skinnier kind) 100lbs weights on sale every monday I think for like 60 bucks a peice i think i may buy about 1300 lbs worth senice i can putt 1100lbs on the front and i still have the tail gate and spare on the truck.
 
where or what brand has lighter weights? It gets old moving 100#s three and four times per pull.


C-ya
 
zstroken said:
TJ I have consulted what I classify as an expert. Hopefully he will get back to me.

What you ahve to consider is there any reason to do it? Does it increase the lever arm? The DMAX guys do it to save their front CV joints. Does it make the front end of the truck harder to lift? If it doesn't then short of making the driveline angle for the front shaft it doesn't help much. I would get rid of the lift blocks though.
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Actually, the main reason is to keep from breaking Tie Rod Ends. The Center Link tries to rotate and which pulls on the tie rods, which can cause them to break where they neck down and are threaded, BUT it's just insurance for the CV's also.:)
 
i make them JD weight's almost every day and can't get them :-( argh! foundry won't let me buy direct. heck friday before christmas i made 1800.
 
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