Pulling cam gear with out pulling cam?

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thisguy65

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I don't mind pulling the cam to replace timing housing gasket but what I'm concern about is disturbing the headgasket from removing the rockers.

I know that some guys pull the cam off and heat the gear up around 300 degrees. How successful is this approach? I understand that cummins does it but they aren't building 400+ engines.

Will one of the 3 jaw pullers for autozone/advance be able to pull the gear, using the 3 small holes in the gear (closest to the center) with out having to remove the thrust plate?
 
not sure how easy it is to pull the gear, but you won't disturb the head gasket removing the rocker assemblies. just retorque all the head bolts while you're doing it.
 
I have done it both ways. I put the gear in the oven at 400* while I get the case switched out, so ussually 30 minutes.
 
thanks guys. I figure anytime you mess with the head bolts you run the risk of comprising the headgasket.
 
350+ degrees on the gear or you will have trouble from my experience.

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Thanks guys.

Has anyone pulled the rockers and soon after had a head gasket related issue?
 
Any time you pull the cam gear, you risk damaging the cam. Just keep that in mind. I always find it tricky to get the puller situated so the Jaws pull properly and I use a spacer so the cam snout doesn't get marred. With my puller, I always have to pull the cam out about 1/4" or so to get the Jaws in place. Heat the gear to a good 300* and have a small hammer close by so you can tap the gear on if it starts to get tight towards the end. Use a prybar to hold the cam forward while you tap the gear or you risk pushing out the rear freeze plug.

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thisguy65 said:
Thanks guys.

Has anyone pulled the rockers and soon after had a head gasket related issue?
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I've done several timing case gaskets and have pulled the rockers every time. Knock on wood, those trucks never had a head gasket issue. One of them has 15k miles on it and I sold the other one with 40k miles on it since pulling the rockers. The others all had thousands of miles with no issue.
 
Takes 20 minutes to pull push rods and drop in 1/2" wooden dowels to hold the tappets up. Just taper the ends going into the tappets and secure each pair together tightly with zip ties or rubber bands, and pull the tappets up allowing the cam to slide out freely.


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You can normally back the lash adjusters off, then take the snap ring off and slide the rocker off the shaft without removing the stand.
 
Financial Mistake said:
Takes 20 minutes to pull push rods and drop in 1/2" wooden dowels to hold the tappets up. Just taper the ends going into the tappets and secure each pair together tightly with zip ties or rubber bands, and pull the tappets up allowing the cam to slide out freely.


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Click to expand...

Rockers still have to come off though correct? I was going to use hose clamps as I have to replace the tappet cover seal anyhow.
 
thisguy65 said:
Rockers still have to come off though correct? I was going to use hose clamps as I have to replace the tappet cover seal anyhow.
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I have luck with zip ties. Never did try the hose clamps although I'm sure they work.
 
Would definetly steer away from pulling the gear off the cam, too much risk and can cause more damage if not seated properly going back together. I've used both dowl rods and zipties to hold the tappets up, whatever your more comfortable using. As long as you retorque your bolts then you'll be fine. Believe headbolts are 85ftlbs
+ 90* final torque.
 
I like using 1/2" dowels, as they are a tighter fit in the tappets, giving you a much smaller chance of dropping one in to the oil pan.

But like they say, there's more than one way to skin a cat.


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JNewman92 said:
Would definetly steer away from pulling the gear off the cam, too much risk and can cause more damage if not seated properly going back together. I've used both dowl rods and zipties to hold the tappets up, whatever your more comfortable using. As long as you retorque your bolts then you'll be fine. Believe headbolts are 85ftlbs

+ 90* final torque.
Click to expand...



I know it CAN be done, we do it often on the cams for the QSK50s at work, BUT, they are set to make peak power at 1900rpm, vs us looneys who try to make power past 4000rpm. I won't do it on my personal engines due to concerns over heat stress cracks. Now, I know this can be prevented with proper a proper cool down procedure, but still not a risk I want to take on something that has dollars coming out of my own pocket. Just like I've seen many cam gears crack due to shops welding them to the cams instead of using an actual retainer.

Just something to think about.

I like the oven idea tho, nice, slow, consistent heat is much better than blasting it with a rosebud and oxy/acet


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I pull the gears off with a posi-lock 3 jaw puller and impact. Tried last night installing the cam gear by freezing the cam and heating the gear in the oven but it only went on a third of the way so taking to get it pressed on today.
 
Financial Mistake said:
I know it CAN be done, we do it often on the cams for the QSK50s at work, BUT, they are set to make peak power at 1900rpm, vs us looneys who try to make power past 4000rpm. I won't do it on my personal engines due to concerns over heat stress cracks. Now, I know this can be prevented with proper a proper cool down procedure, but still not a risk I want to take on something that has dollars coming out of my own pocket. Just like I've seen many cam gears crack due to shops welding them to the cams instead of using an actual retainer.

Just something to think about.

I like the oven idea tho, nice, slow, consistent heat is much better than blasting it with a rosebud and oxy/acet


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Click to expand...
5 +/- minutes on the induction heater to 400 degrees and it dropped completely onto my cam, no issues. Science is fun.

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