Racing without a radiator or any water ???

VaOutlaw

VaOutlaw

King of the dyno
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Mar 11, 2011
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I just picked up a 12V 2WD Pro Street truck and the previous owner removed the radiator and all water from the block and head and also removed the freeze plugs. The block is NOT filled.

Is there anyone else out there racing without any water at all ? If so , how are you monitoring your temp and how long are you having to wait in between passes ?
 
Water injection for one thing, fill the block. Was the injector issue enough to warrant a rebuild?
 
TMONEYDIESEL said:
Water injection for one thing, fill the block. Was the injector issue enough to warrant a rebuild?
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At this point there is NO water injection on the truck , however I plan on installing a big 1000 PSI system like on my 24V ..

As for the injector issue : We plan on throughly checking out the motor this evening .. " Smokem " has a new set of injectors on the way..
 
Call me later, its still 6am and im in a breakfast coffee nobody bug me mode. :hehe:

That truck has a good setup , i really like the frame work, and the rear end and suspension is setup well. Should be a fun truck for you guys, Weston will no doubt send a good set of injectors.
 
I know Darren and a few others were running without water for a while, don't know if they still are. They use a big fan to blow air through the coolant passages between rounds to help it cool faster.
 
I have dry blocked it before, but you have to start dead cold. I do not recommend it thou. I would run water and circulate water, even if you don't run a radiator. I have quickly disconnects on the dragster to exchange water between passes. When I built the Dr Performance truck I used a Davis aluminum radiator and aerospace inline pump. I likes to stage at 100 degrees if possible
In comp and Pro Stock, we are taking the block and heads down to 40 degrees with heated oil. There is power to be had with starting out as cold as possible, but you have to tune for it .
 
COMP461 said:
In comp and Pro Stock, we are taking the block and heads down to 40 degrees with heated oil. There is power to be had with starting out as cold as possible, but you have to tune for it .
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For clarification, are you saying you're running 40F coolant (I assume this has to be forced cooled with ice) and then heating the oil? If I have that right....doesn't it chill the oil significantly? Or are you running a big enough external reservoir tank that it stays warm with a short staging period?

I assume with this kind of scheme, you'd have to fire the thing up at the last minute, burnout, and go pretty quickly or the water gets warm and the oil gets cooler.

Or school me if I've totally misunderstood.
 
Or maybe utilize a heat exchanger to pump about 40F deg water through the block in between rounds. We use them at work here to cool thermoforming tools. We run them between 5 and 10 deg C.
 
nwpadmax said:
For clarification, are you saying you're running 40F coolant (I assume this has to be forced cooled with ice) and then heating the oil? If I have that right....doesn't it chill the oil significantly? Or are you running a big enough external reservoir tank that it stays warm with a short staging period?

I assume with this kind of scheme, you'd have to fire the thing up at the last minute, burnout, and go pretty quickly or the water gets warm and the oil gets cooler.

Or school me if I've totally misunderstood.
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here is the chiller that we run . some are even going to Brine water to go even cooler . I see condensation on the blocks and heads .

as to the oil we run light weight oil, like Royal Purple lite 11 or 000 oil with tighter bearing clearances .
the oil is in the dry sump tank and you will see it almost smoking its so hot

The Chiller R Racing



I will stage with as cool of water as I can,
 
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Adam in your case, I would carry the extra 30 to 40 lbs. , Of water and radiator and pumps. The Cummins castings are thing in areas that can’t take heat cycles and survive. I carry just water and a circulation pump because in Top dragster we will have to make 5 to 7 passes in a 6 hour race day, sometimes round robin. Thermal control of the motor will yield more power than the weight loses.
 
We run a completely filled bock and only run water in the head. We run a radiator and electric pump. We can street drive and the water will stay around 180* and the oil at 210*. If we have to hot lap, oil will climb to 250*. But as long as we have 15-20 minutes its very manageable.
 
Blacksdieselhp said:
We run a completely filled bock and only run water in the head. We run a radiator and electric pump. We can street drive and the water will stay around 180* and the oil at 210*. If we have to hot lap, oil will climb to 250*. But as long as we have 15-20 minutes its very manageable.
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I was going to ask who has done that...
 
As far as street driving, it stays fine. Water peaks about 180 and oil about 210. Ive driven it quite a bit on the street. But the track heats it up a little more.
 
VaOutlaw said:
I just picked up a 12V 2WD Pro Street truck and the previous owner removed the radiator and all water from the block and head and also removed the freeze plugs. The block is NOT filled.

Is there anyone else out there racing without any water at all ? If so , how are you monitoring your temp and how long are you having to wait in between passes ?
Click to expand...

Id fill the block and move your coolant probe down into the oil pan.
 
Blacksdieselhp said:
We run a completely filled bock and only run water in the head. We run a radiator and electric pump. We can street drive and the water will stay around 180* and the oil at 210*. If we have to hot lap, oil will climb to 250*. But as long as we have 15-20 minutes its very manageable.
Click to expand...

Surprise that is enough cooling for street driving.
 
Thanks for all the responses and suggestions. We do plan on filling the block in the future and at that time I guess we will just run water in the head.

Last night we used a vehicle to tow it around in the pits and was able to make three 1/8 mile passes within an hour without any problem , we used a leaf blower to circulate air through the coolant passes between passes. Oil temp never exceeded 225 degrees.
 
VaOutlaw said:
Thanks for all the responses and suggestions. We do plan on filling the block in the future and at that time I guess we will just run water in the head.

Last night we used a vehicle to tow it around in the pits and was able to make three 1/8 mile passes within an hour without any problem , we used a leaf blower to circulate air through the coolant passes between passes. Oil temp never exceeded 225 degrees.
Click to expand...

Pics of the new truck?
 
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