Ram50

Hey thanks Leiffi. I read most of tall boys post on the scania build. I'll have to admit most of it was above me.

I was hoping you might know more about that little yellow BMW. I sort didn't figure it set the world on fire having just the three videos and absolutely no text from google search.

I'm still tossing around ideas. You are correct about just staying with the electronics. I just need to either man up or find someone close who aint afraid of this stuff. lol
 
adaptronics

I have been e-mailing back and forth with Ruud Visser. He says they cannot control the Piezo injector?? I would have to switch to the solenoid style to use his controller. I can't figure out which type I have in the engine right now. I guess short of pulling one and tearing it apart, I will never know.
 
Bodacious said:
I have been e-mailing back and forth with Ruud Visser. He says they cannot control the Piezo injector?? I would have to switch to the solenoid style to use his controller. I can't figure out which type I have in the engine right now. I guess short of pulling one and tearing it apart, I will never know.
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Google says BMW started to use piezos in 2005, yours were 2011 ? Do you know if injectors are interchangable or do you have to change head also ?
 
Done any research on what the issue their is?
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I didn't really ask. He just stated that they couldn't control the DI piezo injectors.

Do you know if injectors are interchangable or do you have to change head also ?
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From what I could find, which was very limited, the only injectors offered to the US was the piezo style. I think in 2015 the N57 will be released in one of BMW's vehicles in the US. I'm pretty sure they will have the solenoid injectors and I have no way of knowing for 100% sure if they will even fit. Same with the early Euro M57's. Additionally, the earlier versions worked at a lower rail pressure so I might possibly even have to switch to the cp1 set up to run them. Ultimately, I'm prob better off just the pay the extra for the NIRA and get it over with.

Skynam may be another option as they are asking me a lot of questions and seem to be willing to go out of the way to get a controller working for me. They are also cheaper than the NIRA controller. They are not diesel specific so it worries me just a little.

You all sure you wouldn't want me to go the mechanical way??????????
 
Bodacious said:
You all sure you wouldn't want me to go the mechanical way??????????
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There is even more work to change it mechanical. Look at how fast thais are running with their commonrails, there is lot of potential in them.

NIRA might be the way to go then, swedes are running endurance racing with diesel BMWs with NIRA.
 
Hello all, thought I'd jump on and give an update. Someone posted a while back that I might end up the most knowledgeable person on this BMW engine and I think they were right. At least the most knowledgeable in West Virginia. lol

Dale at Mt. Diesel sent up an A-pump and I've been studying on mounting the pump to the M57. The A-pump appears to be about 2/3 the size of a P-pump. I'm not sure about the weight but I would guess it would be about 2/3 as well. After some band sawing and grinding, it will now be possible to mount the pump. The dang rack travel plug was really giving me head aches until I found a small opening for it behind the timing cover. Now, it's almost like it was meant to be. I will have to have the pump receiving hole milled out for the larger pump hub.

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Now on to driving the pump. I discovered that BMW built an M47 engine and it was mechanically injected from 1998 - 2001. The M47 is a four cylinder version of the M57. The injection pump on the M47 is a VP style semi electronic rotary driven with a double drive chain. Also, from what I can tell from the parts images, the injectors are the same length and mount the same way. I had to order the parts all the way from Romania and I only ordered one injector just in case. If it works, I'll get the other five coming. Plans are to have these injectors opened up for more flow.

These engines seem so fragile compared to the 'ol 5.9. I used the 1/4" drive ratchet during tear down 'cause I was afraid of breaking something. lol

Here is a shot of the end of one of the cams. Sumbiches are hollow????

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I need to find a machine shop that would be competent enough to enlarge the piston bowls. Anyone know anyone they would recommend.
 
Thanks for putting me on to Will their Crackerman. As soon as I get the other engine tore down, I'm gonna send the pistons to him.
 
I spent 5 hours reading and watching all your videos last night until I couldn't keep my eyes open any longer hahaha. I love this build. Its unique in a lot of different ways and very impressive! Keep up the good work and I'm anxious to see what you can do with the new engine.
 
Hey thanks for the comments Grapevine. I'm hoping this BMW thing works out. lol

I pulled the pistons and rods out of the first engine today. I have many questions for the compd family.

First off is the rods. Keep in mind, this poor little engine will probably be pushed to failure, but, I would like to give it every opportunity to make some big power before this happens. Take a look at the pics and let me know if you think these rods will be the week link. Carrillo makes H-beam rods for the 3L Mercedes and they are incredibly light compared to the stock rods. I could probably have a set made if the general consensus is that it needs to have them. This is the first time I've ever messed with rods where the caps were broken off. Before breaking the cap bolts loose, you couldn't tell where the cap ended and rod began.

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The next question, should I have the engine/head fire ringed, o-ringed, or just leave as-is. Keep in mind, this is aluminum head to aluminum block. The factory head gasket is a 3 layer laminate with the middle layer about twice as thick as the outer two. This normally would be a no brainer, however, two variables may make either a fire ring or O-ring impossible. First variable is that this is the only head gasket that may be available. So, if a fire ring is necessary, would I simply cut out the part of the head gasket next to the cylinder walls? Would simply o-ringing the head work with the laminated style gasket? The second variable is the minimum amount of space between the bores. Have a look at the pic and see what ya think. Also, just as a general question, if the Fire or O-ring is feasible, would the ring be placed outside the steel sleeve or directly on the sleeve?

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Last question for this post. The block is all cast aluminum. I had to do some cutting and grinding on it a little and I can tell ya this stuff is harder than your typical aluminum. I was even able to file on it without the material filling up the file. Anyhow, take a look at the pic. The crankcase is deep skirted which will allow for a girdle if necessary. So, what do you all think? Should I build a girdle to tie all the main caps together? If so, what thickness would be necessary? Naturally, the thicker the better in this situation, however, keeping weight in mind, would something like a 1/4" girdle aid enough in the bottom end to break other parts or do I even need a girdle???

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I thought I'd post up a few pics of the pistons before sending them off to Big Blue 24. They are Mahle and appear to already have some sort of coating on the skirts.

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Cracked rods aren't a good combo with new found horsepower. In the cummins application, 03 up guys will take them out and run a 12/24v or billet rod so I would say look into something like a H beam just to be safe. Fire ring looks to be out of the question in my opinion due to the lack of surface between cylinder but I'm not a machinist so I would wait for a reply from someone who is.
 
Grapevine said:
Cracked rods aren't a good combo with new found horsepower. In the cummins application, 03 up guys will take them out and run a 12/24v or billet rod so I would say look into something like a H beam just to be safe. Fire ring looks to be out of the question in my opinion due to the lack of surface between cylinder but I'm not a machinist so I would wait for a reply from someone who is.
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Some early 03 have the early vp rods. Also want in on this build.
 
Yeah, those cracked cap rods are probably not that great. Also have will taper the tops of your pistons if they already arent. Dont need that top expanding into the block.
 
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