Ram50

all I could sponsor is beer if I was closer!
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You know you just committed yourself. This world is way to small for us never to meet up and my crew and I can drink truck loads of beer.:hehe:

Thanks Crackerman. Will, did you get that???

I found this post on my thread over on Bimmerfest to be very informative and well written. A fella that goes by the screen name of 'Hooper' wrote:

"For the cracked rods, they should be viewed just like any other rod in a stock engine. Some are very capable, and some are not. Cracked is apparently pretty common for an OEM engine these days, so you could easily have an OEM that isnt providing them big enough for high HP applications, and some that are. Whether these BMW rods are in the strong camp or weak camp, I dont know. In a 1 to 1 comparison with the only difference being the rod end is either cracked or machined, the cracked end should be a bit stronger or longer lasting because the fit between the cap and rod is as close to perfect as it can get, where as a machined cap is likely not installed as accurately. However, cracked rods have to be made from powdered metal instead of forged steel since forged would be inclined to stretch before cracking, which obviously would not work well for this method of rod end construction. I would expect forged steel rods to be stronger using the same dimensions as powdered since everything I have ever been told about powdered metal use tells me that its not as tough as forged."

I sent Carillo and Auto Verdi an email last evening to see if they would be interested in making some custom rods. Auto Verdi sent this e-mail:


"Hi .

We have make rods for the 6 Cyl Mercedes Diesel engine with good success .

I need from you sample rod then the bushing for the small end about 14 Pieces so I have 2 extra if some problem .You bay them from BMW dealer as spare parts . I have not any for so big diameter as diesel rods have .

205 Euro per rod + Sweden Vat 25 % have you company with Vat Nr ?

Stefan Verdi"

Anyone know what the heck VAT is???
 
Bodacious said:
So, if a fire ring is necessary, would I simply cut out the part of the head gasket next to the cylinder walls?
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yes. Do you have a pic of the stock head gasket? On a 5.9, you can just remove the factory doubled over ring in the stock head gasket and replace with a fire ring.
 
It would have to be a tiny ring with the little amount of surface between cylinders...
 
Copper o ring just outside the fire ring portion of the factory multi layer steel head gasket.
I have seen hose types of gaskets handle over a thousand hp without an o ring on turbo 2.0 liter 4 cylinder.
 
would r&r be able to build you some cheaper
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Forgive me for posting in my current state. I've spent the last four hours downing coors light while one ov my berry vest friends dorve me around in our idelesel rihino. lol Had a blosats by the waaay. lol

i'll syee ya'll to morrow. lol
 
I'd say run the stock rods till they fail. There's no real way to know exactly where they will break. It might be a good idea to research other v-6 diesel motors and compare the design and dimensions of your rods vs say Mercedes rods. If yours are the same size as the Mercedes and the Mercedes are good till 600 HP, then you at least have a ball park on where they may fail.
 
Drunk post!!!!
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lol, yep, it happens. Sure am paying for it this morning.

Thanks for the suggestion Big Blue24, will do. In the meantime, Carrillo sent an e-mail back and I think I'm gonna send them a rod to, at the very least, get a price for 12 of 'em. Oh yea, it is an L6 too. Not a v-6.

Copper o ring just outside the fire ring portion of the factory multi layer steel head gasket.
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Here are some pics of the head gasket. The top and bottom layers measure .008" and the middle layer measures .039". I like the O-ring idea, but, with the rigid center layer, I think only the side the o-ring is on will get sealed better. IIRC, I think it is the blacks diesel truck is running with just the layered gasket???

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would r&r be able to build you some cheaper made local in the US
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Possibly, I'll shoot them an e-mail as well.
 
I'll be sending RR Racing a rod.

Does anyone have a p-pump out where they could measure the hub OD where it goes in the timing cover?

If it is the same as the a-pump I have, I'll also need the ID of the hole in the timing cover.

Thanks
 
MLS (multi-layered-steel) head gaskets are usually plenty strong for a performance build if you add-in some high strength fasteners for the head, such as ARP 625's. As an added precaution, you could oring the block or the head directly centered over the factory fire-ring portion of the gasket and use a softer o-ring material such as copper .041" wire pressed into a .038" groove that's .031" deep. The softer oring will bite the fire ring more firmly without compromising it's structural integrity. If you do a little more research and or testing, you can use stainless wire but you need to get the protrusion spot-on so you don't cut through the fire rings of the MLS gasket. With a Cummins standard gasket, .008"-.013" protrusion works fine, with an MLS gasket, I've seen sealing problems on Cummins with .013" protrusion.

If you're looking for a DIY home-remedy, look into the Isky Groov-o-matic, it cuts a groove in the block following the cylinder bore and includes the proper cutter and copper wire. Lots of the gasser BMW in-line engine guys use this very tool/oringing method on their high powered gasoline motor builds.
 
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Does anyone have a p-pump out where they could measure the hub OD where it goes in the timing cover?

If it is the same as the a-pump I have, I'll also need the ID of the hole in the timing cover.

Thanks
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Anyone?????
 
I found out the front bearing retainer is almost an inch larger in diameter on the P-pump so I've struck out here.

I think my best bet will be to get the proper square type O-ring for the retainer and just sneak up on it at the machine shop. I'd say as long as the pump engages with some resistance, the O-ring will seal.
 
OH geez. Thanks a lot JQ!! You got my daughter all wound up now!!

By the way, your getting the blame for this bastard BMW mechanical project. LOL

I'm having a heck of a time with the pump drive. I can move forward, just not sure it will hold????

Sometimes 'Ya got to risk it to get the Biscuit' lol
 
Bodacious said:
OH geez. Thanks a lot JQ!! You got my daughter all wound up now!!

By the way, your getting the blame for this bastard BMW mechanical project. LOL

I'm having a heck of a time with the pump drive. I can move forward, just not sure it will hold????

Sometimes 'Ya got to risk it to get the Biscuit' lol
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You should talk to these guys, they did a remote mount p-pump....

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http://www.dieselarmy.com/features/car-features/funkengruven-2001-chevrolet-silverado-powered-6-7-cummins/
 
I received the prices back from the three places I had pricing the connecting rods. Would it be unprofessional to post these prices here? I was shocked to say the least.

Thanks JQ for the pic. A belt drive is already being considered. I didn't really study on placing it on the passenger side, however. Lots of stuff over there to run into. Also, I'm not sure how to oil a dummy shaft where the CP4.2 would have been? I would have to build a shaft that was supported by the timing cover and the pump housing. Machine the original pump gear to spin freely on the shaft yet it couldn't be allowed to walk on the shaft any.

One thing we are running into is that these sprockets are very hard material. One of the hang ups is how to get the sprocket back to the original hardness after it is softened and machined??

Thanks for the reply dvst8r, I should have listened to you on the 47rh.
 
Cut pistons: Stock compression ratio was 16.5:1, opening up the bowl and decking the piston top to remove the flycut mess dropped the ratio down to 13.7:1. Might have to use a little whiff of ether to get this BMW diesel started, but at least you'll know you made every effort to help the block, crank, and headgasket live with the compression drop.....


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