Retorque Factory Head Bolts

I can't stand standard ARP's. what a waste of money.. I'm going back to stock head bolts with my new build.
 
jaybuller said:
oh good ill take the waste of money arps off your hands.....
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I've got a set for a 24 valve and a set for a 12 valve out in the garage. You don't want em. I've used em for just about everything now. Lifting motors, using on chains, kicking em across the floor, whatever else I can figure out to use em on.... Other then the engine of course.
 
hahha, pretty funny, i do know they they are better than facotry ford 7.3 headbolts.... i put a new 7.3 together with standard headbolts new torqued to specs and blew the gasket after first time i got it over 35 psi. put back together, didnt change anything but standard arp studs torqued to arp specs, it held no problem after that and even with more timing and way more boost pressure than before with stock bolts. So i know they do clamp better and more even than stock bolts. what dont you like about them? or is it you just like the high dollar arps that much better?
 
jaybuller said:
hahha, pretty funny, i do know they they are better than facotry ford 7.3 headbolts.... i put a new 7.3 together with standard headbolts new torqued to specs and blew the gasket after first time i got it over 35 psi. put back together, didnt change anything but standard arp studs torqued to arp specs, it held no problem after that and even with more timing and way more boost pressure than before with stock bolts. So i know they do clamp better and more even than stock bolts. what dont you like about them? or is it you just like the high dollar arps that much better?
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I tore my motor down, studs were in there for maybe a year? Rusted and pitted.. Took them out of a friends trucks while swapping motors.. Rusted and pitted.. Plus all of the threads I've read about on here who have had broken bolts pop up because they are rusted and pitted.. Too many people (who know what they are doing) have had too much luck with stock bolts to ignore it. So I'm going back to them.
 
Lucky Jeff said:
I tore my motor down, studs were in there for maybe a year? Rusted and pitted.. Took them out of a friends trucks while swapping motors.. Rusted and pitted.. Plus all of the threads I've read about on here who have had broken bolts pop up because they are rusted and pitted.. Too many people (who know what they are doing) have had too much luck with stock bolts to ignore it. So I'm going back to them.
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So true.

No one wants to remember all the threads with studs breaking.

Studs are over rated unless going with 625's or H11's
 
jaybuller said:
hahha, pretty funny, i do know they they are better than facotry ford 7.3 headbolts.... i put a new 7.3 together with standard headbolts new torqued to specs and blew the gasket after first time i got it over 35 psi. put back together, didnt change anything but standard arp studs torqued to arp specs, it held no problem after that and even with more timing and way more boost pressure than before with stock bolts. So i know they do clamp better and more even than stock bolts. what dont you like about them? or is it you just like the high dollar arps that much better?
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six fasteners per cylinder >>> four fasteners per cylinder
 
BigErk77 said:
Yall muthafukkas need JESUS!LOL
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Perhaps its the beer deciding this but...

That, my foul mouthed evangelist friend, is going in my signature.

I have never quoted a screen name for inspiration before. You may possibly be the next bumpkin Billy Graham. I'm saving that one for later there, Boyd.

BTW, You owe me a monitor, asshole. :hehe:
 
"Next we torqued all the bolts to 100 lb-ft and marked them. Make sure to use smooth, even pulls with the torque wrench. It also sometimes would take more than 100 lb-ft to break the bolt loose, so the wrench would click once when the bolt started turning, then when it clicked again we would stop. The guys at Big Power Diesel have tightened many a head bolt, so they are familiar with how they are supposed to "feel.""

This is taken from that diesel power link. Am I crazy or did they exceed the torque wrenches' torque setting trying to get the bolt to overcome its stationary friction, then continue to push harder after the wrench had 'snapped over'?? If so, that is the dumbest **** I've ever heard.
 
asauer said:
"Next we torqued all the bolts to 100 lb-ft and marked them. Make sure to use smooth, even pulls with the torque wrench. It also sometimes would take more than 100 lb-ft to break the bolt loose, so the wrench would click once when the bolt started turning, then when it clicked again we would stop. The guys at Big Power Diesel have tightened many a head bolt, so they are familiar with how they are supposed to "feel.""

This is taken from that diesel power link. Am I crazy or did they exceed the torque wrenches' torque setting trying to get the bolt to overcome its stationary friction, then continue to push harder after the wrench had 'snapped over'?? If so, that is the dumbest **** I've ever heard.
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I can't comprehend what your saying, but I pulled mine to 125 ft lbs. Been a year or 2 with twins. No problems so far.

Knock on wood.
 
my headgasket was cooked.... when i retourqed my bolts it made it worse...

i like my A1's.... banks can lick my sack the real dragster is still faster

what else.... oh yeah, CR's are for queers

and uhm that cousin of your, with the deer fondling problem.... i think i know a girl up here with sort of the same issues.... except it's only when she's drunk and it involves horses mostly.... and sometimes... if your real lucky, you get to see what a drunk chick, a rubber glove and a stoned dog can acomplish together.... think van wilder
 
I originally pulled my stockers to 125 with a click type and popped a gasket less than a year later.........

I bought new bolts when I did the gasket...... pulled them to 150ftlbs in 5lb increments with alot of time between with a digital wrench..... then waited overnight and pulled them one more time...... it appears to be holding great!!!!

I didn't like how it felt much above 135ftlbs but the clamp was still there..... I used a JD Moly synthetic grease on the threads and under the bolt head.......

"The Jeff Garmon" says "150ftlbs cold is about 125ftlbs hot" FYI
 
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