Sled pulling questions

cummins724

cummins724

BREAKING $HIT
Joined
Apr 16, 2007
Messages
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I have pulled a few sleds just for fun at the local events, but my truck is mostly just a daily driver/tow rig. I just drive to the local pulls after work, change my ball to a twisted clevis & run it. I have noticed that the competition at these events usually have airbags, blocks etc. on there trucks. I was thinking about building a set of blocks for my truck, but am not sure of the rules for this mod. Are blocks allowed in the hot diesel, street classes? I will be building a hitch for this season & thinking of making a weight bar to slide into my snow plow bracket. Do the weights help that much? Is it worth it? Thanks for any help guys.
 
depends on which class and which organization ---some prohibit blocks, other's will let you use them if the allow 1" of travel, others 2" of travel and others solid----best to build them adjustable then you're good to go....chris
 
csutton7 said:
depends on which class and which organization ---some prohibit blocks, other's will let you use them if the allow 1" of travel, others 2" of travel and others solid----best to build them adjustable then you're good to go....chris
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Thanks. I'll have to check the rules, but I don't remember reading about the travel. Anyone got any pics of some adjustable blocks? I'd appreciate it, gonna make a set soon.
 
just get you some 2x4 box steel and slide em over your bump stops there a easy slip on slip off deal
 
allisfarmer said:
just get you some 2x4 box steel and slide em over your bump stops there a easy slip on slip off deal
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Really? That sounds like a plan. I have a set of solid steel 4" lift blocks sitting here that my friend gave me & all the steel to build a set of blocks. I thought they would have to bolt on.
 
I've been doing some research on the block idea & come across a post which said that you shouldn't use blocks without bars. I don't have traction bars because I tow so often & heard they aren't good for heavy towing.
 
I agree, I built traction bars to put on and keep them on all year for towing, takes axle hop out completly, I would get some axle hop out of my 97 fully loaded with Hay.... hhop is completly gone, I got the bars on my 98 now...
 
I could build some, no problem. I had more than one guy tell me that they are gonna be bad for towing. I have a GCWR of 26,000.
 
They will be good for towing. You'd be suprised how much that axle twists underneath that truck.
 
Kman9090 said:
They will be good for towing. You'd be suprised how much that axle twists underneath that truck.
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I thought they would help also, but was told that since I tow heavy in tight places that I shouldn't use them. The guys said that the bars will hold the axle from flexing & on a off camber turn, The truck will get pushed around. They said that I will either break something or bend something. I asked a guy to explain & he said to imagine going down a steep grade & making a sharp turn, your axle is going to want to twist to keep the wheels planted. The bars won't allow it to twist & the weight will just push your rear around. Not real sure what he meant by this.
 
Huh?? Unless you have a locker in the rear that is locked all the time, that's what the differential is for. The axle won't flex enough to allow it to do that, nor would you want it to!

Put bars on it, you won't regret it!
Chris
 
Signature600 said:
Huh?? Unless you have a locker in the rear that is locked all the time, that's what the differential is for. The axle won't flex enough to allow it to do that, nor would you want it to!

Put bars on it, you won't regret it!
Chris
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Oh, I am. I trust you guys more than those guys. I actually have been looking for materials to build them. My father in law donated some 1/2" plate steel that I picked up today. I am still trying to find the tubing. What is DOM tubing that I keep reading about? I have located some 2" tubing with 1/4" thick walls. Is that enough or should I keep searching? I have alot of friends with the materials & could probably do the bars for free, except the heim joints.
 
Two years ago I towed Bills DMax back from Charleston. His truck puked and mine was on the trailer set up and ready to pull. The only thing I did was remove the bump stops. Air bags would help keep the suspension in the sweet spot with a heavy load.
 
Just make sure your bars are long enough so that they won't inhibit flex. If made right they should allow the axle to make all of it's normal movements in everyday driving, but won't allow it to wrap the springs. Using a leaf spring bushing in the front will keep vibration from traveling through the frame, and you can use a turn buckle from a tractor 3rd point in the rear. If you cut it in half, you will have one for each side, and most are greasable. I used 2"x3" heavy wall square tubing for mine. They didn't cost too much, and they will let you decide if you like them or not. If not, then you have some material for another project.-Nicholas
 
NCOVEY said:
Just make sure your bars are long enough so that they won't inhibit flex. If made right they should allow the axle to make all of it's normal movements in everyday driving, but won't allow it to wrap the springs. Using a leaf spring bushing in the front will keep vibration from traveling through the frame, and you can use a turn buckle from a tractor 3rd point in the rear. If you cut it in half, you will have one for each side, and most are greasable. I used 2"x3" heavy wall square tubing for mine. They didn't cost too much, and they will let you decide if you like them or not. If not, then you have some material for another project.-Nicholas
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I'm a little confused about the design of my bars. I've read posts throughout this site & one guy recommends square tubing, another round tubing. I was gonna build a set like BBD, but then saw a post where a guy said that BBD bounced. I am lost here guys. Thanks for your help guys. Any pics would be appreciated. I need to figure out if I want a single bar or not, how to attach to the rearend etc.
 
I was also thinking of doing a set like these, but with a bigger frame plate, more bolts & use 1/2" plate for the mount to the rear u-bolts. Also, Is that just a regular 3 point hitch top bar link that he uses for the ends of the bars?http://lazarsmith.com/tractionbars.html
 
The 2" DOM, 1/4" wall would be perfect....I actually have 1.5" DOM and it works fine....I just wish I went with the 2" though for piece of mind...I mounted mine to the frame even with the yoke coming out of my transfer case. That should let the rear axle cycle up and down during normal driving without "binding" anything. I used heim joints from the local Farm Supply since I offroad a bit and still wanted my axle to articulate reasonably. Weather permiting I'll be sandblasting them this weekend and painting them, they have been under my truck all winter "testing" them, lol
 
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