Sled pulling questions

It looks like the exact same 3rd point link I used on the rear of mine. On the mounts at the frame, use the spring bushings for your pivots, and you won't get the vibration through the frame. I don't think the shape of the metal makes that big of a difference, as long as the metal is thick enough. I used the 2"x3" square tubing since I had it. My bars go up under the cab to mount to the frame. I will try to get you some pictures if I can-Nicholas
 
JFlagg said:
The 2" DOM, 1/4" wall would be perfect....I actually have 1.5" DOM and it works fine....I just wish I went with the 2" though for piece of mind...I mounted mine to the frame even with the yoke coming out of my transfer case. That should let the rear axle cycle up and down during normal driving without "binding" anything. I used heim joints from the local Farm Supply since I offroad a bit and still wanted my axle to articulate reasonably. Weather permiting I'll be sandblasting them this weekend and painting them, they have been under my truck all winter "testing" them, lol
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What is DOM? I can get 1/4" wall pipe for free. Is DOM something special? Gt any pics of your setup? Of the axle mount? Thanks
 
DOM is Drawn-over-mandrel tubing- made from cold-drawn electrical-resistance-welded tube that is drawn through a die and over a mandrel to create such characteristics as dependable weld integrity, dimensional accuracy, and an excellent surface finish.
 
displacedtexan said:
DOM is Drawn-over-mandrel tubing- made from cold-drawn electrical-resistance-welded tube that is drawn through a die and over a mandrel to create such characteristics as dependable weld integrity, dimensional accuracy, and an excellent surface finish.
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Thanks man, I can't explain what I've been through tring to find some DOM tubing. Nobody around here heard of it, they kept saying, "Yes, I'll give you some damn tubing.":hehe: I was getting tired of hearing that one. My friend has piles of tubing with 1/4" wall ranging from 1"-9". He said, whatever you want just take it.:rockwoot:
 
NCOVEY said:
It looks like the exact same 3rd point link I used on the rear of mine. On the mounts at the frame, use the spring bushings for your pivots, and you won't get the vibration through the frame. I don't think the shape of the metal makes that big of a difference, as long as the metal is thick enough. I used the 2"x3" square tubing since I had it. My bars go up under the cab to mount to the frame. I will try to get you some pictures if I can-Nicholas
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Can never have enough pics/ideas. I appreciate all the help guys.
 
cummins724 said:
Thanks man, I can't explain what I've been through tring to find some DOM tubing. Nobody around here heard of it, they kept saying, "Yes, I'll give you some damn tubing.":hehe: I was getting tired of hearing that one. My friend has piles of tubing with 1/4" wall ranging from 1"-9". He said, whatever you want just take it.:rockwoot:
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No problem, glad to actually be useful for a change:hehe:

Why don't I ever have friends say stuff like that to me?
 
I have located some heim joints at Tractor supply, but where can I get some of the ones with the rubber bushings for the frame mount?
 
My Uncle stopped by today & we were talking about the tubing that I need for making my bars. He can get me either 2" tubing with 1/4" wall or solid 2" bar stock. I'm not sure how I would make the solid bar work, but either one is free. Which should I get?
 
I was wonderin about the solid bar myself i have some layin around its heavy as hell i know that.?
 
I doubt you would bed the 2" solid but structurally....the 2" tubing in even a 1/4" wall will be stronger than the solid.

RyanB
 
RyanB said:
I doubt you would bed the 2" solid but structurally....the 2" tubing in even a 1/4" wall will be stronger than the solid.

RyanB
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Good call, Solid tube up to a certin diameter seems to bend with less force than tube?
Brandon
 
RyanB said:
I doubt you would bed the 2" solid but structurally....the 2" tubing in even a 1/4" wall will be stronger than the solid.

RyanB
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I actually was arguing this out with my Uncle & he swears that the solid is the way to go. I told him that the tubing would be stronger & wanted some opinions to show him. He is not sure if the 2" was Dom tubing or welded joint tubing, but if it is just welded, I'll make ladder bars. I can't pass up free tubing.
 
most solid steel is just mild steel like they make rebar out of it is usually not heat treated or anything like that to make it stronger so tubing is lighter and stronger in many cases
 
Well I went to Tractor Supply today & bought a top link. It has 3/4" holes in the eyes of the heim joints. I also bought a hitch, but they didn't have the "C- Channel" with the holes for mounting the pintle. Didn't have a 3" pintle either, but the hitch has a 5x7 plate with 6 mounting holes. One thing at a time I guess.
 
cummins724 said:
Well I went to Tractor Supply today & bought a top link. It has 3/4" holes in the eyes of the heim joints. I also bought a hitch, but they didn't have the "C- Channel" with the holes for mounting the pintle. Didn't have a 3" pintle either, but the hitch has a 5x7 plate with 6 mounting holes. One thing at a time I guess.
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i plan on doing something like that for mine hitch to find that c channel most trailer places have it or www.awdirect.com has it also
 
getblown5.9 said:
because the bolt holes dont line up with the lunette eye
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I'm gonna check with Highway trailer in Hopwood, Pa. They have a bunch of different lunette rings. I am hoping to find a bolt on ring. Tractor supply had one that bolts up, but only had a 2 1/2" I.D. ring. It was rated at 60k# & I was thinking about grinding a 1/4" out of it. I actually think a 2 1/2 ring would work, because for the last 2 years I've only used a twisted clevis with 2 3/4" eye. It worked fine, but I borrowed a Hitch from a friend at Waynesburg pulls last year & got my furthest pull of the year. That is what made me want to build a hitch. I think the twisted clevis was stretching & I was losing some height or something, It felt different pulling with a good hitch.
 
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