so here we go... 2.8

VTECSTI said:
cds is VERY pricey. i know its well made but ive found a few scheid 13mm's for sale used on here and the genious forums.
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make sure it is a P7100 and not an P3000. the 3000 are cheap cuase most people are going P7100. the 3000's are known for stickin plungers at rpm's over 5000.
 
as far as mechanical lift pumps go, you will need one or you will later have issues. but why waste your cash buying one from a performance shop? ebay and racin junk have really smokin deals on nice used ones.
 
DarrenKrueger said:
If your wanting an electric lift pump get an Aeromotive eliminator from summit, it will keep up with whatever you decide to run. And get yourself a real clutch (haisleys or Kennys).Talk to 01ppump about a pump hes a good guy to deal with.
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trying to stay as far away from electronics as possible. monster pump left me with a pretty bitter taste, thats irrelevant to lift pumps but you get the idea.

you are the first person ive heard refer to a southbend as a non "real" clutch. i was trying to stay away from weighted clutches as i want to be able to drive it once a millenium on the street. i still have not decided though. i will talk to E.D monday about the pump. thanks for your input.

thanks for the heads up on pump differences.
 
VTECSTI said:
trying to stay as far away from electronics as possible. monster pump left me with a pretty bitter taste, thats irrelevant to lift pumps but you get the idea.

you are the first person ive heard refer to a southbend as a non "real" clutch. i was trying to stay away from weighted clutches as i want to be able to drive it once a millenium on the street. i still have not decided though. i will talk to E.D monday about the pump. thanks for your input.

thanks for the heads up on pump differences.
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You don't really need that high of a plate load if you are going to a triple disc. bdp (CompD sponsor) is running a 3250 triple from SBC on his 3.0 truck. Also, other members on here that are running Kenny's clutches are in the 3200-3600 plate load range. $.02
 
j-rod said:
You don't really need that high of a plate load if you are going to a triple disc. bdp (CompD sponsor) is running a 3250 triple from SBC on his 3.0 truck. Also, other members on here that are running Kenny's clutches are in the 3200-3600 plate load range. $.02
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save my left leg a little. good plan. might need it to kick the truck if i go with the valvetrain ideas mentioned in the first pageLOL
 
what are yalls thoughts on gearing for front a rear? and what cam?
 
well first off you need to decide if your gonna drive it on the street or not... alot of these parts dont work to good on the street... such as a big clutch along with bridges in the head.

i would def go with a mech pump on ur timing cover.


01ppump you do have a great running truck and all but do you really think 14mm head studs are necessary.

i would go with a cast cam that is an over size blank. i mean billet will be your strongest choice... but do you have an unlimted budget.

hamilton cams is used by alot of people along hasilys,scheid,eep they all have great cams. i would suggest putting bushings in also.

if it is a budget build i would go with the musts first then add from there... and yes i would start from the bottom and work up. we all know gaskets and such are not cheap.
 
Diesel Buddy said:
well first off you need to decide if your gonna drive it on the street or not... alot of these parts dont work to good on the street... such as a big clutch along with bridges in the head.

i would def go with a mech pump on ur timing cover.


01ppump you do have a great running truck and all but do you really think 14mm head studs are necessary.

i would go with a cast cam that is an over size blank. i mean billet will be your strongest choice... but do you have an unlimted budget.

hamilton cams is used by alot of people along hasilys,scheid,eep they all have great cams. i would suggest putting bushings in also.

if it is a budget build i would go with the musts first then add from there... and yes i would start from the bottom and work up. we all know gaskets and such are not cheap.
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hamilton is roughly 2 hrs away so ill most likely go with them. thanks for the input. big budget for the most part. and EXTREMELY little street driving...
 
ILLINOISRAM said:
Advice on the drivetrain, okay.

Honestly i run all stock driveline parts in my truck with no issues yet but my truck was a 70,000 mile dd that now has a dozen hooks on it. I am now in the process of upgrading the driveline. Of course my tranny has all the upgrades like normal, 241dhd and a 1 piece 1480 series ujoints drive shaft. When i go to 5.13 gears, i will buy the spool and 37 spline axles from haisely for the rear d80. The front is all stock with the powertrax no slip thrown in the factory carrier. Im sure this year with the new pump and turbo that i will break some driveline parts and i will replace them as i go.



Tim
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where did you get your power trax from? i'm planning on welding mine but thats gonna require a posi-lock cable for the 2 piece shaft so i can still turn. maybe a limited slip will be better for me.
 
getblown5.9 said:
where did you get your power trax from? i'm planning on welding mine but thats gonna require a posi-lock cable for the 2 piece shaft so i can still turn. maybe a limited slip will be better for me.
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Your 02 have a two piece?
 
zstroken said:
Your 02 have a two piece?
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yea i got the early 02 with CAD. it stays locked in all the time ever since i did the 271 swap, something with the vacuum switch wasnt right, so the collar never releases, and my 4wd light is on all the time. its either one piece shaft and limited slip, or weld it and get a posi-lock.
 
where do you get your one piece from? and the limited slip? i would like to be able to turn lol
 
Depending on the year truck if it is an 00+ you can get a factory piece. If it is prior to 00 you have 30 splines which should be upgraded to 35 spline. Any driveline place should be able to help you out.
 
zstroken said:
Depending on the year truck if it is an 00+ you can get a factory piece. If it is prior to 00 you have 30 splines which should be upgraded to 35 spline. Any driveline place should be able to help you out.
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its a 98.5. what kind of driveline place? not much around my part of texas.
 
VTECSTI said:
i did a rough little outline of what im planning to do to get started in the 2.8class. like i said rough but any suggestions are nice and price quotes are also welcome on any parts.

ENGINE
• Billet cam (any suggestions?)
• Fly cut Mahle pistons (cut for cam)
• Billet valve keepers/retainers
• #110lb 12v valve springs
• Cr tappets
• 14mm main stud/girdle
• 14mm head studs
• Machine off intake manifold
• Custom plenum (PDR or Scheid)
• Bore/install
• Balance to XXXXrpms?
Driveline
• Front locker (arb?? Welded?)
• SB 4200 triple disc
• Dana 80 (w/ 5.13s)
• Dana 60 (5.13s)
• Haisley axles
• Spicer non greasable u-joints
• Driveshaft loops
• Custom ladder bars

Fuel
• 13mm pump (scheid? Cds? Fbd?)
• 5x.22 injectors
• d/v’s?
• .120 lines
• BIG F$#KING LIFT PUMP
• 1” lines?
Air
• S400 (2.8)
• Water injection or air to water i/c
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Looks good. Haisley clutch instead of your chosen clutch. Waterman mechanical lift pump. 3/4" fuel lines to your dump valve. Come out of the dump valve and Y out into 5/8" fuel line that will enter your 13mm Harts pump (P7100). And run water/air IC and don't mess with the water injection.
 
cam bushings for sure. Leave the bridges and the retainers stock, they will do just fine. Also the 24v tappets 1998-2002 will do fine. They are wide enough and they weigh a good bit less than the cr tappets
 
Hamilton Cams said:
cam bushings for sure. Leave the bridges and the retainers stock, they will do just fine. Also the 24v tappets 1998-2002 will do fine. They are wide enough and they weigh a good bit less than the cr tappets
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thanks for the input zack. i have 24v tappets out of my old motor so thats good news. id like to talk with you about the cam as well. thanks!

j-rod: it is a 12v build

thanks for your input 2tone12v. love your truck! keep it up.
 
getblown5.9 said:
where did you get your power trax from? i'm planning on welding mine but thats gonna require a posi-lock cable for the 2 piece shaft so i can still turn. maybe a limited slip will be better for me.
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I got it from Randy's ring a pinion for like 350$. It actually operates like a detroit locker. You can here the teeth ratchet when it breaks loose but from our experiance it doesnt break loose very often. But at least you could put a one piece shaft out of a late 02 and eliminate the cad and vacumm lines. Tim
 
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