Software beta testers needed for 'Anteater'

Ok, I have a update for the guys that were also having the no OD shift issue until lifting throttle... I dropped my truck off Tuesday night. Had scheduled for new Carli ball joints on Wednesday. Anyway, Wed morning the shop called and said truck wouldn't start and batteries wouldn't take a charge. Told them go ahead and throw 2 new batteries in... well, picked up the truck and guess what ? Trans is now shifting into OD perfectly!!! Kind of strange, because I wasn't having any starting problems before, and voltmeter guage in dash always said 14+ while running. But new batteries and the OD shift issue disappeared!!
 
Where did you get power and ground for the Anteater?

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Power is with "add a circuit" into fuse box. #28. Overhead display. (Key ON power). And ground is to body ground bolt directly behind fuse box.
 
Removed ground bolt and wire wheel buffed it and the sheet metal bright and shiny when installed.
 
Not sure why new batteries fixed it. Never had any issues with starting or making voltage before I dropped it off at the shop. Kind of figured they left something on overnight after I dropped it off... but the only change was the addition of new batteries, and now it shifts to OD just like it's supposed too, so...
 
I've been running mine from the PCM trans circuit (not recommended) , Kickstart is wired to a large ignition wire (brown with a green stripe?) and then yours.

All three grounded to a body panel.

It's possible they need more current.

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joefarmer said:
Yes, like Kyle mentioned there are solder pads inside the remote that allow the factory shifter stalk microswitch to be wired to the OD Lockout button. You can use any microswitch as long as both terminals are terminated on the remote circuit board.
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I had no idea about these! Would be a good selling point to advertise. Maybe even put some quick disconnects on the harness coming out of the remote. Also would be good to put a quick disconnect tap on the harness for a lockup switch, I didn't really want to tap the anteater harness for one but did anyways.

Also I would like to use the button on the end of the column for a lockup switch but it's momentary, is there any way to make this work? I found some latching relays but all of them require a powered circuit to work.
 
I was under the impression any 12 volt, fused, key on power circuit.
 
QMFB said:
I was under the impression any 12 volt, fused, key on power circuit.
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12V, yes, but think about if in Watts. If the source is a controller designed for a mA load, it's not going to play well. Exaggerated of course, but you get the idea.



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Watts is voltage multiplied by amperage draw... so wattage is only limited by what your fuse can handle, right?
 
Kick Start said:
Where is recommended?
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Anywhere you can source 10A of ignition switched power. During operation, it only takes between 2-4 amps depending on what's needed. However, the ability to dump 10A is as important as sourcing 10A because of the flyback on the solenoids.
 
kxhonda said:
I had no idea about these! Would be a good selling point to advertise. Maybe even put some quick disconnects on the harness coming out of the remote. Also would be good to put a quick disconnect tap on the harness for a lockup switch, I didn't really want to tap the anteater harness for one but did anyways.

Also I would like to use the button on the end of the column for a lockup switch but it's momentary, is there any way to make this work? I found some latching relays but all of them require a powered circuit to work.
Click to expand...

Yeah, the PCB solder points are a hidden feature typically used by Firepunk in-house custom work. It wasn't finalized until the remotes were finalized a year ago.

How do you envision the momentary working for lockup? One click, lockup on? Does the anteater automatically turn it off again when it drops under the set MPH? Is it TPS based so that it only works from >75% TPS? To be honest, I'd not considered using a momentary for lockup or allowing lockup from anything but the tune's lockup curve.
 
Speaking of remotes being finalized Brandon... I got with Paul a while back about possibly getting a guage pod style remote. He was gonna ask you about it. Are those still available?
 
QMFB said:
Speaking of remotes being finalized Brandon... I got with Paul a while back about possibly getting a guage pod style remote. He was gonna ask you about it. Are those still available?
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Paul asked but there's an issue with the gauge-style falling apart in the warmer states. Some of the parts were only good to 120F and cab temps were exceeding that.
 
joefarmer said:
Paul asked but there's an issue with the gauge-style falling apart in the warmer states. Some of the parts were only good to 120F and cab temps were exceeding that.
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Well hate to hear that, I'm in Fl and it's probably close to that temp everyday here recently. I hope you help your early customers if there's a problem, none yet with mine but I'll keep an eye on it.
 
Well if you guys develop a guage style remote that can handle the South Texas heat... then I'm in !
 
I just picked one up prior to this bit of news and I live in Vegas. It was only 116 today.
 
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