Sold 47re, new owner says no good

I'm really hoping this "mechanic" didn't do something to F&%k this thing up. He told me he's "been a mechanic for 30 years, ASE Master Certified". I don't think I have a single ASE cert (unless we got some at tech school) and I could run circles around this dude.
 
Well, anything can happen and a mechanics experience with 30 years of say carb work, sure isn't like trans work.!!!

I had a trans go out--turbo 400-- and one of my guys said he would change it out for the rebuilt one.
4 hours later I go out to the shop to check on it and he is cussing up a storm!!!

( I could of changed it out myself in 3 hours.)

He is trying to take the cross member out. I told him it has never needed to come out before and that is the third trans.

I crawl under it and the converter is still on the flex plate!!!!!
He argued that it is the easy way. I told him he is 3 bolts from 1/2 way and he can go home if those 3 bolts aren't out in 5 minutes.
He did it right after that.
 
lmfao, only time i ever leave the converter on is if the engine is locked up and i cant get it to turn.
 
No fluid is moving period. Pulled the cooler line off, and checked at accumulator test port.
It has plenty of fluid in it. I'm going to pull the pan, but I feel like he messed up the pump when installing trans.
I'm also going to remove TC bolts and see if the converter has clearance between pump and flexplate.
 
Well we pulled the trans tonight, and can't find anything wrong. Pump looks fine, converter looks ok, no metal in the fluid, etc. I compared the converter they installed to the one I still had that was previously in this trans.

Any ideas?


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Check the edges of the pump and see if any of the plugs came loose that are pressed in there.

If ok stick an input in the TC and see how it feels if you haven't done that already. I'd have to lean towards tc if it's not the same one that was in it before when it worked.


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Don't know if this will point you in a right direction. This is from the ATSG guide.



NO DRIVE OR REVERSE (VEHICLE WILL NOT MOVE) 1. Fluid Level Low. 1. Add fluid and check for leaks if drive is restored. 2. Gearshift Linkage/Cable Loose/Misadjusted. 2. Inspect, adjust and reassemble linkage as needed. Replace worn/damaged parts. 3. U-Joint/Axle/Transfer Case Broken. 3. Perform preliminary inspection procedure for vehicle that will not move. Refer to procedure in diagnosis section. 4. Filter Plugged. 4. Remove and disassemble transmission. Repair or replace failed components as needed. Replace filter. If filter and fluid contained clutch material or metal particles, an overhaul may be necessary. Perform lube flow test. Flush oil. Replace cooler as necessary. 5. Oil Pump Damaged. 5. Perform pressure test to confirm low pressure. Replace pump body assembly if necessary. 6. Valve Body Malfunctioned. 6. Check and inspect valve body. Replace valve body (as assembly) if any valve or bore is damaged. Clean and reassemble correctly if all parts are in good condition. 7. Transmission Internal Component Damaged. 7. Remove and disassemble transmission. Repair or replace failed components as needed. 8. Park Sprag not Releasing - Check Stall Speed, Worn/Damaged/Stuck. 8. Remove, disassemble, repair. 9. Torque Converter Damage. 9. Inspect and replace as required.
 
Thanks! My ATSG is around here somewhere.

I've checked the splines of the pump housing and the lugs of the gear. Both seem ok in either converter. I'm not experienced on the internals of the TC. Is there a seal that could be faulty and no allow the pump to build pressure?

Before I did anything, I pulled the line between trans and cooler and no fluid came out with the truck running in neutral.


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Only other thing I can think of is that they took it apart and didn't get it back to together properly. In the image below this plate will cause a NO Movement situation.

Causes the piston to over extend.
 

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Yes, I dropped the pan. Everything looked normal. The same amount of stuff was on the magnet from when we pulled the trans out of the original truck. No way the trans was torn down.

I'm going to check the pressed-in balls on the pump, and check out the TC some more. If I can't find anything, I'll probably reinstall with old TC and see what happens. I thought about building something to put on a drill and spin the pump, with the trans on the bench, just to see if it would move fluid.
 
I'm still green on auto transmissions, but what would have happened if they didn't fill the convertor with fluid before install? Would that cause any issue like this?
 
I can never get the TC to take much fluid. The pump should fill it the rest of the way pretty quickly.
Is there a deal for the input inside the TC or just a bearing?


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Figured out the problem. Just wish I would have caught it before pulling the trans!
39f4e1b07ed1d1a5cb14719224ed070d.jpg


Snap ring on the shift rod wasn't seated, so it wasn't actually shifting in the valve body. The arm walked up and out of the spool. The detent ball and all that was still working, so it felt right. I didn't look close enough when I pulled the pan the first time.
Thanka for all the suggestions!


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The snap ring goes on top, outside the trans. It was still there along with the washer, they just weren't seated.


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