Someone learn me on the factory exhaust brake.

So far I am less than impressed with the VGT swap other than being different. It doesn't tow worth a damn and it is smokey. Watching the drive pressure gauge peg at 60# makes me cringe. My truck is a 2000, stock VP, new factory injectors, 110# valve springs, Hamilton pushrods, studs, O-rings, and a Quad 4k, 5spd. I'm wondering if I need to put a small set of injectors in it. I'm averaging 12.5 mpg no matter how I drive, with or without a trailer. Avg. is over the last 3,500 miles. I was doing better with my old s366 and 7x11's and it wasn't any worse as far as haze goes.
 
Boost and Drive VS Time

Here you go, gentlemen. This is a plot of Boost and Drive vs Time (logs a point every .020 seconds). Power Level 0 (stock) but it does have a tranny tune. Everything else on the truck is stock except normal full deletes.

From a stop, I floored it. Once I got to about 80 mph (in a 55 zone LOL) I let off it for a second or two, then started to slow down and let the E-brake take over (dayum stop lights). You can see that shifting (in an auto) doesn't affect the boost pressure near as much as it does the drive pressure. You can see the actual shifts in the drive plot. You can also see the downshifts in the drive pressure a lot more pronounced than in the boost as well (expected.)

Does this help? I haven't got the RPM parameter hacked from the OBD port yet so I don't have the ability to log and display it. That feature is in the works. A plot without RPM is like shooting pool with a rope....but all I got right now is that rope.

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So are these VGT's wastegated? I'm assuming that is controlled electronically as to not open when the brake is used...or is there no gate? I'm VGT dumb.
 
no gate on the vgt. i hooked up a dp gauge and found 24-25 of boost = 24-25 drive pressure. after that the drive climbs faster boost. at 32 lb of boost = 60lb drive. the exhaust brake also puts 60lb on the dp gauge. this is how i come up with my limit towing at 32 lb of boost. only my opinion
 
Now I don't feel so bad about closing that charger down to get the trailer moving, or the drive I see with the exhaust brake. It is one laggy pig if you try to keep a 1:1 pressure ratio. If you get time see how they compare at cruising speeds. I need to pinpoint my fuel mileage issue. Thanks again.
 
I'll log it again when I leave work at normal acceleration and cruising speeds and post that up in the morning. I'll shoot for cruising on level ground.
 
Maybe this video will help.

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tJEk-yYOHpU"]Holset VGT Turbo HE351VE Controller Development Stage 1 - YouTube[/ame]
 
Very helpful. Thanks! I didn't know if there was a butterfly in addition to it or not. I've not had any parts of this new truck apart to really learn much yet.

So I'm assuming that is what I've read about people saying they soot up and stop working? The sliding piece (forgive my lack for correct term) gets stuck?
 
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Very helpful. Thanks! I didn't know if there was a butterfly in addition to it or not. I've not had any parts of this new truck apart to really learn much yet.

As far as I know, the only thing in there is the sliding collar. It can pretty much close completely down to create the exhaust braking force. Here's a link to Holset's website that has a brief write up of their VGT technology and a short video in there as well. Holset's Variable Geometry Turbos.
 
In the hotter tunes the timing is increased, i can see that reducing drive psi a bit.
On my autocal (mpg, tow, race) i run the tow tune, it runs cooler and i see 1:1 no problem. The race i see 1:1 (ish) until im up to speed and dp increases past boost 36b/48dp.

All stock, just deletes


Sent from my fphone
 
I guess I need to log WOT runs on all four settings and compare.

So, in the literature, I see a speed sensor output. Is that on these trucks? If so, how can I "hack it?" LOL
 

That is the video I was going to post when I got access to a computer rather than my cell phone.

I have a 351VE on my 12 valve, which is great for low end - mid range performance (relatively speaking, as my truck is far from a powerhouse). However, it really falls on it's face after about 2700 RPM. I believe it is due to high drive pressure above that RPM range, and at one time considered putting an external wastegate on the truck to alleviate that symptom. I would have to root through old posts to find it, but someone adamantly shot that idea down, so I never pursued it.

Recently, I did see where a person put an external wastegate on a 6.7 Liter Cummins with a 351VE using the EGR mounting location on the exhaust manifold and appeared to be pleased with the results.

So, in the literature, I see a speed sensor output. Is that on these trucks? If so, how can I "hack it?"

All HE351VE's are equipped with a shaft speed sensor. Judging from some of the other Engineering projects you have posted, I am sure you can get that output to your screen. You could try contacting the guys at Fleece, since they have a retro-fit controller for the less desirably injected trucks.
 
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I guess I need to log WOT runs on all four settings and compare.

So, in the literature, I see a speed sensor output. Is that on these trucks? If so, how can I "hack it?" LOL

Yes, there is a speed sensor. It's mounted in the center section.
 
Yes, there is a speed sensor. It's mounted in the center section.

So, is it a frequency output that need divided by the number of blades or is it internally divided. I WANT INFO! LOL I've got a frequency input on my display that would love to tie to something.

Check that....if it is in the center....it prolly don't need divided huh....duh.
 
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So, is it a frequency output that need divided by the number of blades or is it internally divided. I WANT INFO! LOL I've got a frequency input on my display that would love to tie to something.

Check that....if it is in the center....it prolly don't need divided huh....duh.

I think there is a flat spot in the shaft or something that it measures. This is what the sensor looks like. I have no idea about the signal it puts out.

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