Spoolin' the front?

satburn

satburn

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Joined
Feb 3, 2007
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Alright, this year was fun and I learned a bit more about setups and watching other people and vids. I've been building and adding stuff as I go, but this winter the plan is to go ahead and get her "caught up" to speak. One of the many mods is getting rid of the open diffs. As I said before, it's not that I didn't know I needed them, more like the kids needed shoes, braces, etc. My thoughts are to spool the front and detroit the rear. This is a street truck and I enjoy being able to drive it around and play with it. If I spool the front and run it around with the CAD off and in 2wd will it be hard to steer and/or drive? In my mind with the CAD off and the transfer case in 2wd, it should still act like an open diff in the front and not be too bad to steer. Anybody try this setup on the street? Is it "streetable" or is this something more for those guys with the gooseneck trailers?
 
Well it would cause the ring gear to spin all the time along with the front driveshaft, even the inner pass axle too for that matter. I suppose this would cause some resistance to the drivers front tire, but if the CAD is disconnected it shouldn't really have any ill effects?

I suppose if I take the truck anywhere tomorrow I could flip the switch to lock the front ARB :shake: while in 2wd and tell you exactly how it acts...
 
To be able to spool the front you would need to buy the lockout kit for our trucks which when you get that and the spool you are lookin at the same price as the ARB and compressor or more I just went ARB.
Brandon
 
spooling is fine if you don't plan on using 4wd on the street. If the cad works you can turn just fine. If you put in a 2wd low switch to disable the CAD you could have 3 wheel drive on the street. A locket front end is very hard to turn even on dirt.
 
97' CTD said:
To be able to spool the front you would need to buy the lockout kit for our trucks which when you get that and the spool you are lookin at the same price as the ARB and compressor or more I just went ARB.
Brandon
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Just to make sure I got you correctly are you saying that to spool the front I'll need manual lockouts out at the wheel, which seems to suggest I'll be replacing the CAD and the long axle. Do they not sell a drop-in spool to replace my current carrier, accepts my current splines (30) and lets me keep the CAD?

I just saw this:

http://dodgeram.org/tech/specs/axle/axlespecs.html

dodgeram.org said:
Front axle traction aids are limited because one axle shaft is permanently engaged in 2WD. The ARB Air Locker is the best choice for either axle. The TrueTrac is available for the Dana 44 used in the 1500 trucks, and one person has used it successfully.

Several people tried the LockRight in the front axle and reported numerous problems. I don't recommend any type of automatic locker in a front axle Center Axle Disconnect system.
Click to expand...

I thought that even though the left front is engaged, it would free wheel with the CAD disconnected? Seems to me that even though you're taking the spider gears out of the equation you still have a right shaft that isn't seeing the pavement/dirt right? Or am I really in 3wd all the time?
 
Oh no, you can go spool but with it you will always be turning the short side shaft and wheel it will always be locked in which would put more wear and tear on parts. But with the lock outs I (think) you can get 1 long side inner delete the CAD your shafts will always spin but they will not be always attached to the wheel when the lockouts are turned then you will be fully locked in just if I was ganna do it I would do it this way but the way you want to is totally doable I just wouldent want to drive it street wise very much, wether it hurt nothing or not JMO.
Sorry I did not explain better.
Brandon
 
zstroken said:
spooling is fine if you don't plan on using 4wd on the street. If the cad works you can turn just fine. If you put in a 2wd low switch to disable the CAD you could have 3 wheel drive on the street. A locket front end is very hard to turn even on dirt.
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Ok, I was with you right up to the end of the second sentence, then you turned right and I apparently had the CAD locked in and blew right through the intersection so to speak.

I thought the 2wd low switch was giving you the ability to drive around in 4 low without the CAD turned on? I typically don't drop her into the low side until I'm pulling out on the track, but I'm not following what you mean by using it for the street? I don't use the low side on the street, maybe once in a blue moon here around the house if I'm working out in the woods or something. Is this what you mean?

A locked front end is very hard to turn even on dirt.
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With the CAD engaged? I would imagine so, or do you mean with it disengaged it's still hard to turn?
 
IF you put the truck in 4wd and the front is welded, then the cad collar shifts and locks the wheels together. If you have a solenoid in the cad line to keep the collar from shifting over and locking, then you only will be driving the drivers side wheel. It will be better than having all locked together. In 2wd it will perform fine, because the driveshaft of the front is free and can spin whatever rate it needs too. Pretty much like a truck with out a cad system. Hope that makes sense.
 
I have a welded carrier in my front, gladly trade for a open carrier! I wont ever run a spool or a welded in the front again. ARB or some sort of limited slip is the best. Spools and welded carriers make front axle shafts break alot easier.
I can turn ok on dirt and loose ground with it locked in. Hang 1000 lbs on the front and forget it no turning happining. I always have to be that idiot that drives down half track then back up to the sled just so I can be sure the axle is locked in and no turning is necessary.

have a good one
Adam
 
I drive down half track with an ARB, just to make sure it is locked in! I can't turn with a hoot with the front locked in on dirt even.
 
Same here, drive down quite a ways to ensure its locked in. Although, even with it unlocked when weights are on the front, its very hard to turn. I'm thinking maybe my PS pump is getting weak.
 
If you happen to break a rear axle shaft the shock rebound will almost always break a Detroit Locker. I would put a ARB in the back as this will not break if an axle breaks. Also remember that if you put in a Detroit, it breaks and you have to put in a second Detroit you would have saved money with the ARB. Depends on How much power you plan on making. I don't think 500 will break axle shafts but more definetly could.
 
You wouldn't know anything about breaking axles would ya?...lol
 
Excellent point on the detroit. You could repair the detroit, but your about 75% of the cost of a new one.
 
RSieck said:
You wouldn't know anything about breaking axles would ya?...lol
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I broke three axle shafts this year and 4 lockers. Only two were detroits. My truck will have a fully built Dana 80 in it next year.
 
lubeowner said:
If you happen to break a rear axle shaft the shock rebound will almost always break a Detroit Locker. I would put a ARB in the back as this will not break if an axle breaks. Also remember that if you put in a Detroit, it breaks and you have to put in a second Detroit you would have saved money with the ARB. Depends on How much power you plan on making. I don't think 500 will break axle shafts but more definetly could.
Click to expand...

...let's lean towards more than 500.

Good info, I like the different perspectives. I haven't made a choice as of yet, but I want to be armed with all the "gotchas" before I do. Thank you.
 
If I put a posi-lock in front why couldent I lock my ARB in then once I am almost to the sled pul my posi-lock to me that would ensure that it is locked right.
Brandon
 
Why not run a spool for the rear?
lubeowner said:
If you happen to break a rear axle shaft the shock rebound will almost always break a Detroit Locker. I would put a ARB in the back as this will not break if an axle breaks. Also remember that if you put in a Detroit, it breaks and you have to put in a second Detroit you would have saved money with the ARB. Depends on How much power you plan on making. I don't think 500 will break axle shafts but more definetly could.
Click to expand...
 
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