Sticky VGT.

Snedge said:
Not recommended.
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I mean, hell, I cussed enough changing the oil on the Buick last night for schidt's sake and that's a 10 min or less job.

BigPapa said:
Get you a school bus. They’re easy to get to on them.
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I think they've got another one for sale that I can get for about $500. Might turn another one into some profit. Recoup some of the dozens of hours of labor I've spent trouble shooting wiring on them bastards. I know this particular one has sat in my driveway many times. :D
 
4x4dually said:
I mean, hell, I cussed enough changing the oil on the Buick last night for schidt's sake and that's a 10 min or less job.



I think they've got another one for sale that I can get for about $500. Might turn another one into some profit. Recoup some of the dozens of hours of labor I've spent trouble shooting wiring on them bastards. I know this particular one has sat in my driveway many times. :D
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School bus wiring will make you an indestructible troubleshooter fo-sho. I have so many stories



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biggy238 said:
School bus wiring will make you an indestructible troubleshooter fo-sho. I have so many stories
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It's impossible without schematics. I owe a fella a steak dinner and some drinks if I ever get to meet him. :D
 
That dump truck runs like a scaled ape.....at anything less than 45 mph. :hehe:

It just needs a hood. I'm not sure why it is still relevant.
 
No hood makes turbo swaps easier!

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J-Pipes said:
No hood makes turbo swaps easier!
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It's right out in the open. Nothing easier than that one to swap. I do need an exhaust outlet that will mate with that big ass HX52 or whatever in the hell is on there. I really do need to get exhaust ran on it as well. It's currently just exhuast wheel open to the firewall. In other news, the cab heats up fast in the winter time. LOL
 
4x4dually said:
It's right out in the open. Nothing easier than that one to swap. I do need an exhaust outlet that will mate with that big ass HX52 or whatever in the hell is on there. I really do need to get exhaust ran on it as well. It's currently just exhuast wheel open to the firewall. In other news, the cab heats up fast in the winter time. LOL
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It'll run even better with a down pipe at least. Hell, with no hood, you could run an up pipe.
 
Hood stack it like a real diesel bro...

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J-Pipes said:
Hood stack it like a real diesel bro...

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Exactly.
Build a hood from sheet metal with butterfly flaps on both sides. Wouldn't even need it to tilt. Just put some pins where the hinges were so you can remove it if needed.
 
Autocar/hayse/WS/Pacific like a real man

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biggy238 said:
Autocar/hayse/WS/Pacific like a real man

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Had one of those Autocar hood flaps fall on my back once while changing an injector. That was the day I learned to tie them up, and not trust the slide lock.
 
Hoods in general are the devil. I guess I'm young enough I haven't worked on any split hoods. They were everywhere when the coal mines were running back home. And spokes.

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List your codes when you get it charged. If you haven't already, make sure your EBP tube and sensor is clean.

As mentioned, check out city diesel's actuator. DDP has a trouble shooting guide as well, but usually the actuators are on back order. https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0615/2559/0073/files/Actuator_Guide_Codes_Instructions_-_DDP_Motorsports.pdf?v=1706729616

If you pull yours apart, there is a chance it will need to be recalibrated which (from what I understand) requires WiTech or a trip to the dealer.

Cheetah uses the same failure prone actuator and recently guys have seemed to have a heck of a time getting them to work without re-calibrating the actuator.

Otherwise, BD is paying up to $600 for a core. The swap really isn't that hard and you don't need a lift.
 
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idk where yer getting actuators but theyre avail all over the place. almost all are the upgraded 18 version too.

cheetah on 3g is a 100% bolt on...seen probly 6 of em on trucks since i did mine..bolt on..roll.. no recal or nothing...guys arent getting the perf they want but the application is wrong
 
Didn't pull codes (forgot), but I did manage to figure out my battery drain is in the stereo wiring somewhere in the vicinity of the amp under the driver's seat. I found the driver's side battery to have a 45mA draw on it. Removed the amp power wire from the large distro block and it went away. Removed amp and tied hot and ground direct to battery, the draw was no longer present. I'll pull the seats and rewire all of it. It was kinda temporarily done anyway and never was put under the carpet like it should have been. I kinda patched it together one day to test it all out and never cleaned it up. Both batteries tested over 800CCA at NAPA on their fancy machine.

I'll drive it some this weekend and see how it acts with better voltage.
 
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