Stock headbolts

J

joni1013

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Feb 1, 2011
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im poorboying this at the moment so the wanted headstuds are out of the question. :doh:

what do yall recommend to retorque them to and in what increments?
 
Call Jeff Garmon or Darren Morrison... Both of their race trucks (Big HP) have stock head bolts...(of did)

They can work well with retorque...

I've had them up to 150 ft. lbs.....
 
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If you can't find unicorn piss, just torque them dry to about 145 ft lbs.
 
Alright Im gonna go put my head bolts in the freezer over night. I dont want them to get to hot when I go to dry torque them.
 
Big Swole said:
Call Jeff Garmon or Darren Morrison... Both of their race trucks (Big HP) have stock head bolts...(of did)

They can work well with retorque...

I've had them up to 150 ft. lbs.....
Click to expand...

:hehe: okay I got the unicorn piss. Found it under the pot of gold at the end of the rainbow! And while i was there I found me lucky charms.

What sequence did you do to get to 150Lbs?
 
Everybody wants to be a comedian!! lol


Like I said, call Jeff or Darren... Jeff's 12v (800hp) race truck has had 5+ seasons on the same motor.. Stock bolts..

Darren beleives in the same deal.. I have seen his trucks .. I beleive his 1000 hp 1/2 ton had stock bolts at shop day..

My old o-ring'd head in my truck (CR) held close to 800 runninf mid 11's with three retorques... Only got he studs after one of my melt downs.. I did two cold torques after heat cycles and one warm torque.. Starting at 100 and increasing by 5's every 10 mins or so..


Jeffs Ram 2000 (700+) with stock bolts (May it rest in peace)


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5+ seasons on this motor


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Darrens 1/2 ton (1000 hp) with stock bolts, last time I saw it.


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Timbeaux making sure it had stock bolts lol




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Is the reason for the retorqes at numerous temps to ensure yourself you get the "slack" out of the headbolts?
I have been having bad luck lately and knock on wood... I would break the head bolt off, crack the head or crack the block.

It's my DD an sucks feeling like I'm back in jr high having my parents taking me to work. -_-
 
Forrest Nearing said:
what compression ratios are they running?
Click to expand...

Oh Im sure they are quite low.. Not stock..

Prob. 14:1 - 14:5-1


Takes either in the winter when cold...



My old cr was decompressed also.. 14:5 - 15:1 (guessing)


So yeah, you got me there though.. But they shove lots of boost in there..
 
Does the mileage on the stock head bolts matter? Going by his Sig they have 435k miles but that's an assumption. After how many miles is it still safe to retorque them without increasing the risk of breaking and or stretching them?
 
Big Swole said:
Oh Im sure they are quite low.. Not stock..

Prob. 14:1 - 14:5-1


Takes either in the winter when cold...



My old cr was decompressed also.. 14:5 - 15:1 (guessing)


So yeah, you got me there though.. But they shove lots of boost in there..
Click to expand...

if you dont mind me asking , what pattern or where is there secret in getting there head bolts to work? marine bolts?
 
joni1013 said:
Is the reason for the retorqes at numerous temps to ensure yourself you get the "slack" out of the headbolts?
Click to expand...


To me it has nothing to do with the bolts.. Its about letting the hg settle / crush during heat cycles... Then the last retorque was my way of feeling like the fire ring in the HG would get that last little bit of "Crush" when the metal is still warm and plyable (sp?). Just kinda makes sense to me. But Im known as a dumbas$ to many around here... lol

So listen to me at your own risk.. LOL
 
my cycle is initial, then block heater for 24 hours repeat ,then idle 30 min repeat, drive 10 miles repeat and drive like a girl for a week and do another. I want my firerings to crush.
 
97rada said:
if you dont mind me asking , what pattern or where is there secret in getting there head bolts to work? marine bolts?
Click to expand...

Far as I know with Jeff and most likely Darren, they are just reg. Stock bolts... Mine were in my CR.. But once again, I tend to break chit no matter what, but they did hold quite well for 4-6k miles.. ( Hard miles) on that motor.

As far as pattern... Same ol circle motion from inside out..
50,75,100,110,115,120,125,130,135,140,145,150. Allowing 5-10 between each.

Takes a long a$$ time but it worked...



(disclaimer again) Listen to me at your own risk. lol
 
joni1013 said:
Is the reason for the retorqes at numerous temps to ensure yourself you get the "slack" out of the headbolts?
I have been having bad luck lately and knock on wood... I would break the head bolt off, crack the head or crack the block.

It's my DD an sucks feeling like I'm back in jr high having my parents taking me to work. -_-
Click to expand...

retorques should be done cold... metal expands when hot
 
DDually... If they are that old and that many miles I honestly can't tell ya... I'd think it would matter more if they'd ever been retorqued before.. If so, how many times..

Not sure the time and mileage matters as much... But I honestly dont know.
 
Big Swole said:
Oh Im sure they are quite low.. Not stock..

Prob. 14:1 - 14:5-1


Takes either in the winter when cold...



My old cr was decompressed also.. 14:5 - 15:1 (guessing)


So yeah, you got me there though.. But they shove lots of boost in there..
Click to expand...

and that explains why...

I wish people would quit recommending stock head bolts to guys running stock compression ratios :(
 
Forrest Nearing said:
and that explains why...

I wish people would quit recommending stock head bolts to guys running stock compression ratios :(
Click to expand...

I can appreciate that Forrest, but his build didnt look like it was major hp... So they'd have a good chance of living...

But I do agree... If the money is there, do ARP 625's and be done!!
 
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