street single? how big?

I'm going to dyno my truck on the 16th with similar mods to what you are thinking. 5x0.018 injectors and a 66/74/14. Ill post what it lays down.

sent from my SAMSUNG CAPTIVATE using tapatalk
 
Lol, not keeping me up, I'm at work, and trolling 10 different forums is all thats keeping me awake. And I'm happy to offer my little bit of knowledge to anyone who'll take it.

Mark TDC turning the motor both ways, and the middle of those 2 marks is True TDC.
See if the pin is showing in the pump, it should be if you are still at stock timing.
Going clockwise, mark where you want your new timing.
Remove pump gear.
Turn engine back so new timing mark is at the top.
Make sure pin in pump is still showing.
Put pump gear back on.
Double check timing to make sure it's where you want it (not necessary, but good insurance)

If my mind can put this all together right now, the formula is
(Dampener diameter*3.14159)/360*=how many inches in one degree of timing

So if you want to advance 8* of timing, mulitply it by the answer to the above formula

EDIT: wait for someone else to verify my post. I really might have forgotten something lol
 
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TTR 21 said:
I'm going to dyno my truck on the 16th with similar mods to what you are thinking. 5x0.018 injectors and a 66/74/14. Ill post what it lays down.
Click to expand...

awsome, i would appreciate that! and good luck! hope you lay down the numbers you want!

madmikeismad said:
Lol, not keeping me up, I'm at work, and trolling 10 different forums is all thats keeping me awake. And I'm happy to offer my little bit of knowledge to anyone who'll take it.

Mark TDC turning the motor both ways, and the middle of those 2 marks is True TDC.
See if the pin is showing in the pump, it should be if you are still at stock timing.
Going clockwise, mark where you want your new timing.
Remove pump gear.
Turn engine back so new timing mark is at the top.
Make sure pin in pump is still showing.
Put pump gear back on.
Double check timing to make sure it's where you want it (not necessary, but good insurance)

If my mind can put this all together right now, the formula is
(Dampener diameter*3.14159)/360*=how many inches in one degree of timing

So if you want to advance 8* of timing, mulitply it by the answer to the above formula

EDIT: wait for someone else to verify my post. I really might have forgotten something lol
Click to expand...


out of every forum post/thread ive read, this makes the most sence to me! As soon as i can get ahold of a pump gear puller i will give this a go and post up my results. And the pin i would be looking for, do i need to touch it at all or simply just llok to see if its still in its place? again, thank you for the help!
 
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madmikeismad said:
Lol, not keeping me up, I'm at work, and trolling 10 different forums is all thats keeping me awake. And I'm happy to offer my little bit of knowledge to anyone who'll take it.

Mark TDC turning the motor both ways,Using the drop valve method!! and the middle of those 2 marks is True TDC.
See if the pin is showing in the pump, it should be if you are still at stock timing.
Going clockwise, mark where you want your new timing.
Remove pump gear.
Turn engine back so new timing mark is at the top.
Make sure pin in pump is still showing.
Put pump gear back on.
Double check timing to make sure it's where you want it (not necessary, but good insurance)

If my mind can put this all together right now, the formula is
(Dampener diameter*3.14159)/360*=how many inches in one degree of timing

So if you want to advance 8* of timing, mulitply it by the answer to the above formula

EDIT: wait for someone else to verify my post. I really might have forgotten something lol
Click to expand...

Your welcome
 
I ran a 64/71/14 and now I have a 66/74/14. The 64 spooled a hair quicker but didn't seem to pull as hard as the 66 I'm running now. 66 is a little more smokey around town. I'm pulling off my AFC this weekend for some tuning and adjustments and bumping timing from 20 to 24. I'll report back to see how it's doing on the street..
 
Well I ran a 76/85 24 as a single for a while. I raced a friend with a 64/71 and he pulled like a mofo till my turbo spooled lol. But I have moved to a smaller turbo gt4202 and it spools much better. Being at sea level rocks
 
jakemono said:
I ran a 64/71/14 and now I have a 66/74/14. The 64 spooled a hair quicker but didn't seem to pull as hard as the 66 I'm running now. 66 is a little more smokey around town. I'm pulling off my AFC this weekend for some tuning and adjustments and bumping timing from 20 to 24. I'll report back to see how it's doing on the street..
Click to expand...

awsome, would like to hear about the results! i think im leaning towards going with a 66 and if it is a bit more smokey around town, just gives me more afc tuning to do!
 
Madmikeismad, that's how I time all the trucks I do. It's easier than pulling the Dv and lines etc. Plus once you mark the balancer for tdc you never really have to check again. This makes for adjusting the timing a couple degrees forward or back much much easier.

And on edit, box stock S366sx's (66/73-.91 t4) are $680 shipped.
 
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RJM06590 said:
Madmikeismad, that's how I time all the trucks I do. It's easier than pulling the Dv and lines etc. Plus once you mark the balancer for tdc you never really have to check again. This makes for adjusting the timing a couple degrees forward or back much much easier.

And on edit, box stock S366sx's (66/73-.91 t4) are $680 shipped.
Click to expand...

as soon as i get things figured out ill be doing my truck that way as well. Also when i can get the money, would this S366sx be something i could order through you?
 
RJM06590 said:
Madmikeismad, that's how I time all the trucks I do. It's easier than pulling the Dv and lines etc. Plus once you mark the balancer for tdc you never really have to check again. This makes for adjusting the timing a couple degrees forward or back much much easier.

And on edit, box stock S366sx's (66/73-.91 t4) are $680 shipped.
Click to expand...

With a marmon flange on the exhaust they sure are. You will need to have it machined if you want to use the common hx40 flange.
 
NickTF said:
With a marmon flange on the exhaust they sure are. You will need to have it machined if you want to use the common hx40 flange.
Click to expand...

Lostnwalmart said:
Or get a marmon flange from aiflo and weld it onto a down pipe.
Click to expand...

Yep, machining is only about $75, while the flange is pretty much the same.

Borg Warner S200SX, S300SX3 V-Band KIT [3541, 3501, 3001, 2501, 3000] - $67.90 : Himni Racing, Turbocharger, Turbo, Garrett, Turbo Kit, GReddy, Mazda RX-7, HKS, Apexi, TiAL, TurboXS, TurboSmart, Flange, Turbonetics, Exhaust, Intercooler, ACT, Intake
 
Aside from the turbo talk, I think it would be a good idea to hook up a fuel pressure gauge if you haven't done so already.

I've read about some guys having an air dog, or fass, etc, and still weren't getting the power they want. They hooked up a fp gauge and were able to determine they had a clogged fuel filter or their ofv was worn out or had a broken spring in it. I just hooked an electronic one up in my truck a couple weeks ago and bought a new ofv and am going to perform the bic pen spring mod sometime this weekend to fix my low fp problem.

Might save you some head scratching down the road.
 
Lostnwalmart said:
Well I ran a 76/85 24 as a single for a while. I raced a friend with a 64/71 and he pulled like a mofo till my turbo spooled lol. But I have moved to a smaller turbo gt4202 and it spools much better. Being at sea level rocks
Click to expand...

Flatlander.


Where are you from in CO AlmostBroke?
 
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