TDI no power

Davids, let me know if you need the cable for Vag-com and I'll send it your way, the program is free.

turbom, if you need the timing belt tools, let me know, I bought the whole kit from Diesel Geek and will gladly rent them out, just send back some really good beer when you return them :)
 
Sure sounds like the symptoms of an over boost condition,the n75 should back the boost down with a surge to 18 psi I believe, If the ecm has been tuned an after market mechanical boost control will be needed as the factory one will not respond fast enough and will put the car in limp mode as you describe until the key is cycled but the check engine will remain on.
 
Car is completely stock other than egr delete.

Not sure it'll be Over Boost because it seems to do this at low rpm's most times around town... Or it'll do it on the hwy at a steady speed but with sudden inputs to the throttle to excellerate or decellerate.

It'll limp it sometimes for just a second and then I'll feel it let go and excellerate as normal... Then other times it'll stay limped and nothing will fix it except a re-key.

The rekey would not be a big deal but since these car Force the head light opperation when you re-key the head light blink twice or so and everyone in front of me gets pissed thinking I'm asking them to move over! LOL
 
Swole

Mine would do the samething and it was mostly at low boost. Everytime it would go to limp mode is when I was lugging the motor down.

From what I can tell the computer thinking that it should see boost and when it doesnt because (atleast on my car) the vanes were stuck half open it goes to limp mode. It would only do this when I was driving the car nice. It would also go into limp mode if I went over 3000-4000rpm. I think this was because it would get a true over boost. Which I verfied with a boost gauge hooked up.

I'm going to be pulling the motor and transmission out of mine this week. I will take pictures of what the turbo looks like when I get it apart and post them up here.

My guess you need to clean your turbo and replace all vacuum lines.

If you EGR deleted you should really on have 3 or 4 lines to worry about.

Mike
Mike
 
Looking over things today ( not know much of what I was looking at .. lol )

When we did my egr delete, the tit on the dash pot for the flapper was petrafied (sp?) and it broke when we tried pulling it off. He said leaving unpluged would be ok, it would just shake a bit when I cut the engine off.

This vacum hose was just left hanging and the little dash pot left the way it was too..

Could either of these to things cause my limp mode issue?

I folded the hose over (see pic) and put a zip ty on it.. It seemed not to make a difference .. Still limped several times while driving tonight.


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Not sure it'll be Over Boost because it seems to do this at low rpm's most times around town... Or it'll do it on the hwy at a steady speed but with sudden inputs to the throttle to excellerate or decellerate.

I guess you don't have a boost gauge? On my gf's when the stock tune is loaded the boost spikes on the occasions you just described, the blips or half throttle inputs from zero or slight throttle. Those little VNT's don't take any time at all to hit 24+ psi when the vanes are closed/slow to open compared to the rate of fuel being dumped in. It's not so bad though with the tune on, it mellows the spikes out quite a bit. Boost actually falls off with or without the tune on as you run it up in the rpms, when the vanes have time/enough force to work right.

It'll limp it sometimes for just a second and then I'll feel it let go and excellerate as normal... Then other times it'll stay limped and nothing will fix it except a re-key.

Does it smoke at all when it does either of these, then surge forward sometimes but not all the time? If so it's from the vanes sticking closed and cutting off the exhaust flow, not limp mode, just no exhaust flow. Her car has also started doing this within the past month. I know for a fact what it is because the same thing happened on my diesel samurai with a vnt turbo...cleaning the vanes fixed it.
 
Could either of these to things cause my limp mode issue?

I folded the hose over (see pic) and put a zip ty on it.. It seemed not to make a difference .. Still limped several times while driving tonight.


If that's the control for the flapper valve in the intake I would hook it back up! That's the only chance you have to get the motor to stop if it runs away from a blown turbo seal.
 
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It really doesn't take much soot to make them stick.

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Cleaned
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Thanks guys!

How hard is it to get the turbo out?
From the top ot bottom?
 
Swole I just took mine out last night wasn’t to bad at all. I did break the oil feed line as it was all rusty when it goes into the turbo.

I pulled my intake manifold off as it only took me about 5min to do so. Make it a ton easier to find all the bolts to get the exhaust manifold off.

You can do everything from the top side except unhooking the oil drain back tube and support bracket. All in all I think I had an hour in getting the thing off and on the work bench.

Of course once it was on the workbench that’s when the fun started. The two bolts that hold the actuator on where way to rusty and the heads where already round. So I had to cut them off. Will dig them out with a mill today at work.

For the life of me I cant get the turbo to separate to clean the vanes tried everything last night but the blue flame wrench.

What I ended up doing was taking a piece of plate steel and some gasket material and clamping it across the exhaust ports on the manifold and then tip the turbo up so the outlet for the turbo is facing up and I filled it full of diesel and let it sit over night. This morning the turbo vanes already feel way easier to move. I brought it with me to work and I'm going to try heating it up this morning and hopefully I can get it to come loose. I will take pics once it apart.

I can tell you one thing these turbos are tiny. I set it next to one of the Garrett 2871 I use on my sleds and it would almost fit in the exhaust ports of the 2871 and my sleds only 700cc or .7L. Crazy that a 1.9L diesel would use such a small turbo.

The fun of working on your own stuff.

Mike
 
Here is picture of me getting the turbo apart. These things are tiny. Heated it up with the torch just a little and it just about fell apart in my hands doesn't look to bad but its stick in places when going threw the range of motion with it.

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Decide I had enough with work and wanted to go out and play one last time. We were making our own trails threw Forest Lake. I think we put on 33 miles of which 20 of that had to be water skipping in the ditch and creeks. Still a good time with lots of snow up in around Stacey and North Branch.

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Mike
 
The turbo vanes sticking is the problem most of the time with the issues you guys are having.

You can as mentioned earlier in the thread use a had vac pump on the line going to the actuator and watch for movement.

You can also just reach down there and move it with your hand, if it doesn't move or only move a little your problem is obvious.
There is a spec for it, something like 3" of vac when it starts to move and full open at 10" of vac.
Those #'s are not correct just an example. I dont have my Bentley at work so I cant look it up.
 
Got a little crazy with the torch. Trying to take a picture with a huge rose bud torch warm things up faster then I thought.
 
Figured out clutch issue. I'll let the photo speak for them self but it looks like the pressure plate came apart causing the disc to get ground to a million little pieces.

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MIke
 
my uncles 2000 tdi jetta has no power either. It is a pig getting on the highway and he says he used to be able to hear the turbo spooling now it sounds like an NA tractor motor. I will check to see if the vanes are moving.

thanks
 
If it hasent had any work done to it and it has over 100k on it. It needs an intake cleaning. it like trying to breather thru a straw works fine in till you do anything diffcult.
 
not to revive a 2 month old thread but, just put a new vnt actuator on my car. it wouldnt make any boost but then sometimes it would at like 3k then the next day nothing, then it spooled at 2k for a week straight, then nothing, pulled the vnt actuator off and when moving it in and out with my hand rust came out and you could shake it like a babys rattle. also the vane lever wouldnt move so we hit that with some penetraiting oil and it freed right up and replaced the actuator. it gained a little pep but nothing like it used to. but in my cummins i ran a product called power D2, it was a bottle you pour in the fuel and an aerosol can you spray into the intake, after the turbo. i guess it did a good job cleaning everything out because i felt a very noticeable increase in spool up. sould i give this a try in the tdi?
 
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