Think I Blew Head Gasket. The plan is to......

NickTF

NickTF

Single turbo turd.
Joined
Jun 4, 2007
Messages
5,887
Wanted to get input from those who've been here before doing anything for sure. After running the truck hard a few times for the hotrod show I think I blew the gasket. I bumped timing and increased boost via the quick spool flange so it seems logical. I used to get almost no pressure in my cooling system. After making some hard runs Sunday I noticed I now get pressure in the cooling system and am having some bubbles on occasion in the reservoir tank. Sunday I actually filled the reservoir up with coolant. I drained some out and havne't seen the reservoir budge from the level i've drained it since but still see bubbles from time to time. I'm guessing it's the head gasket with a very very minimual leak which will only get worse.

I have an o-ringed head on the truck from PDP with stock head bolts torqued by the garmon method.

I'm thinking trying to torque the head down is not going to work even though the leak is very small. Any input there?

My thinking right now is to remove the head, replace the gasket, and line torque using arp 2000 studs. Does this seem like a good plan? I can't justify $1000+ in this tear down via shaving and re-oringing the head so need something that's going to work without a huge investment.

Any input is appreciated, especially from those with experience having the same issue:bang:doh:
 
I've never done a head before so here are a few questions:

1. Do you thread the studs into the block then slide the head over them? Wasn't sure if the cowl would allow enough clearence for that to work.
2. Do the ARP 2000 studs come with the lube I need? I recall something about using the supplied lube on the head end and motor oil on the engine end?
3. In removing the stock head is there any specific pattern for removal which should be followed? If it makes a difference the bolts have been torqued to 130/140 ft-lbs.
 
Studs have to go in after the head, I usually get the head within 1/2" of the block and then start a stud in the back and the front to help guide the head down onto the dowels.
Once the head is in place I screw all the studs into the block, coated the threads with supplied moly lube. I then coat the washers top and bottom as i slide them onto the studs.
Torque up to 125lbs. in 3 steps and then take to 145ftlbs. in 5lbs. increments.
 
DTanklage said:
so you dont ever loosen them and retorque them?
Click to expand...

they should be loosened before the next torque step

Nick, you can put a few studs through the head and hold them in place w/ rubber bands, have the head floating over the block w/ a hoist, then thread a few studs to help properly locate the head as you're setting it down.

main thing is you don't want that heavy bastard to come down wrong and nick the gasket (BTDT :( )
 
Just did one this weekend with the studs in the block already.( common rail if it matters) Royal PITA. It wasn't my truck, or it wouldn't of happened that way, but I wouldn't even think about doing again ever.
 
GRotman said:
Studs have to go in after the head, I usually get the head within 1/2" of the block and then start a stud in the back and the front to help guide the head down onto the dowels.
Once the head is in place I screw all the studs into the block, coated the threads with supplied moly lube. I then coat the washers top and bottom as i slide them onto the studs.
Torque up to 125lbs. in 3 steps and then take to 145ftlbs. in 5lbs. increments.
Click to expand...

Glen, should I just follow the cummins torque sequence? Also, what about re-torques. I have never re-torqued the stock head bolts and was told it was not necessary. Thanks a bunch man!

Any comment on removing the head bolts? Should I remove them in sequence or just remove them as is convenient? sorry if I sound like an idiot, I just don't want to screw this up and have to do it again. I've been spending a whole lot of time lately on the truck and the GF is having enough and honestly I can appreciate where she's coming from because I am too lol.
 
If you're going to lift the head then it doesn't matter what sequence. If you want it to stay in spot take one bolt out and put the stud in then tq to factory specs.

I lowered my head without any guides and it went on perfect. Trick is to go slow and make sure it's level from front to back and keep checking the alignment. Afterthat I did factory up to 95ftlbs and then in 10lb increments to 125ftlbs. Holding strong so far.
 
NickTF said:
Glen, should I just follow the cummins torque sequence? Also, what about re-torques. I have never re-torqued the stock head bolts and was told it was not necessary. Thanks a bunch man!

Any comment on removing the head bolts? Should I remove them in sequence or just remove them as is convenient? sorry if I sound like an idiot, I just don't want to screw this up and have to do it again. I've been spending a whole lot of time lately on the truck and the GF is having enough and honestly I can appreciate where she's coming from because I am too lol.
Click to expand...

Yes, follow the Cummins sequence. To minimize head distortion, it would be a good Idea to remove the bolts in reverse sequence.
 
GRotman said:
Yes, follow the Cummins sequence. To minimize head distortion, it would be a good Idea to remove the bolts in reverse sequence.
Click to expand...

That makes good sense and that's what I will do. Thanks guys for all the input, keep it coming if there's anything you think that will help out.
 
GRotman said:
Yes, after they are all torqued I plug in the block heater and bring the motor up to temp. let cool and then repeat the torque steps.
Click to expand...

When you say repeat the torque steps can you elaborate on the loosening? Should I loosen the studs one at a time all the way or to a certain value and then use the same torque sequence (up to 125ft-lbs then up to 145 in 5 ft-lb increments)?

roughly how long should it take for the heater to bring the block up to temp?
 
Also, I have a question regarding removing the rockers. When I loosen the rockers I assume it is a good idea to bar the motor over so the exhaust or the intake are not opening the valves correct? Is this unnecessary with these bohemoth rockers? We always did this with gas stuff to prevent from bending shafts on shaft systems but this is also in applications with far more spring then 60 lb cummins pieces.
 
loosen up the adj first so they will be loose when you put it back together

i didnt spin the motor - just yanked em
 
x2 on loosening the adjusters. Make sure they are loose when you tq down also.
 
NickTF said:
When you say repeat the torque steps can you elaborate on the loosening? Should I loosen the studs one at a time all the way or to a certain value and then use the same torque sequence (up to 125ft-lbs then up to 145 in 5 ft-lb increments)?

roughly how long should it take for the heater to bring the block up to temp?
Click to expand...

Loosen them one at a time and tq to the next step in the sequence, then move onto the next stud and loosen tq to sequence so on and so forth.

I had mine plugged in over night and unplugged the next morning and gave it time to cool then went to town that night and got it knocked out.
 
does the block heater really get it hot enough for a retorque?

guess on the positive side you are not running it (no cyl pressure) but hummm
 
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