throttling problems, please help!!!!!!

y couldnt use just have the pump pinned, pop the gear loose and then turn the motor back to the desired degree? that is what i did.

Because then you are on the coast side of the gears not the drive side that the engine runs on (leaving backlash in the gears), and the timing will be off a few degrees. 45* is way overkill but its the idea that matters

And make sure to hold tension in the counterclockwise direction on the pump gear when you reinstall it to eliminate the backlash there also.
 
Ya but another thing to consider is that it depedns on the pump shop that did the pump. The pin can be anywhere in reference to the #1 plunger. The most accurate way to tell is the 'bubble method' to find port closing.
 
pin it then put a light on it takes the guess work out of it been there done that to many times with these pumps
 
i have to get the truck running first. im think the timing is way higher than i set it at. it should fire right up, but it kinda struggles a little bit and doesnt.

so your saying pin the pump and have the engine at tdc and then start it and see what its at?
 
where was your pump benched at? here's what i would do in your situation, if you are still learing about this stuff.. Pin the pump where u see the tab, pop the gear, get it to TDC with a dial indicator. then tighten the gear.. and see if it starts.. DON'T FORGET TO TAKE THE PIN OUT OF THE PUMP. :D
 
the pump was benched at turbo and diesel injection in Indianapolis, IN...im gonna have mark who is the guy that works there that did this come down and help me out.

refresh me how to find tdc with a dial indicator?
 
Here's what I did to find tdc. Remove #1 injector. I took a small piece of metal and put two holes in it to allow it to be bolted down to one of the injector hold down bolts. Then put a small rod thru the other hole, thru the injector hole, down on to the center of the piston. Mounted a dial indicator to measure movement of the rod. Rotated engine over to note highest lift measurement. Then rotated it in either direction until I saw 0.050" change and marked the balancer for both spots. The 0.050" is pulled out of the air (can't remember what I actually used?) but it shouldn't matter as long as it is the same on either side. I'd make sure you mark both points while the piston is either traveling towards TDC or away from TDC. Do it the same for both marks or else you will have some small amount of error due to bearing clearances.

Then mark the exact middle of these two points on your balancer and you have TDC.
 
i guess im just gonna wait till i find someone to help me do that. i dont have any of the tools to time with. hopefully mark can get down here and help me out. im sure he knows exactly how to do this.

thanks for all the info guys, i really appreciate it. keep it coming.
 
im hoping its just a timing issue. i cant think what else it could be.

my guess is when the pump is pinned its at something other than 0* and the timing is advanced way too much then.
 
well heres the easies way i would do it if i were u.. set up a pointer on the balancer.. i used a piece of mechanics wire that i bolted to the oil pan underneath.. take out #1 injector and make sure you are on the compression stroke of #1, not #6.. get a wooden dowl or piece of steel that is hair smaller than the injector tip.. make sure it's pretty long.. send it down in the head so it rests on top of the piston.. set up your dial indicator so it reads off of the top of the dowel.. make the dial indicator read .050 on the upstroke, make a mark on the balancer, make the dial indicator read .050 on the downstroke, make a mark on the balancer.. then find the middle of the two marks and that is your TDC mark.. time consuming, but most accurate..use a scribe or fine pencil, and a machinist rule to keep your measurements and marks as accurate as possible..

P.s.: Some pump shops will set the pump to factory timing, so it may be pinned at 12* btdc and meant to be put on an engine locked at TDC, you follow? that's what i bet happened.. A good pump shop will pin the pump at #1 port closing, so you can put the engine where ever you want in reference to the pump..
 
so your say the pump may be pinned at *12. so then i would have to roll then engine back say 10* to get 22* of timing like i am wanting?
 
correct... but if you have the ability to find port closing on the pump and set the engine where you want it... Then, that is by far the most accurate way..
 
port closing?....is that where you take the #1 dv out and put a Dial indicator in?
 
it prolly more than likely that the pump is not at 0* when pinned correct? even though the kid i bought it off of said it is, and mark the guy who might have done the work said he would've lock timed it to zero...but maybe a diff guy worked on it.
 
anythings possible, lol there's no set place for that lock to be, so it can be anywhere in reference to the #1 plunger.. #1 port closing is the point at which the plunger covers the inlet ports in the barrel and the injection event starts. You can find this by taking the delivery valve out of the DV housing and removing the spring and shims.. make sure the DV housing is still in the pump and re-install the DV holder.. feed 5psi of regulated air into the pump. run a hose from the #1 outlet into a bottle of water. turn the pump clockwise until you have one air bubble every 2 seconds.. this is #1 port closing..
 
alright. well im gonna get an expert on this down here next weekend, or at least try. and see if we can figure this out.
 
When you try to crank itdoes it roll smoke and shake but not really run. If it does that is what mine did on first start up. My linkage was actually too tight giving it throttle and also i had to back the idle down. Those two things had me worked up on mine too. I got on the right track by unhooking the linkage and then starting it. Then it still wanted to idle at about 1100. Got them adjusted and works like a champ now. Tim
 
I sent you a PM, I can get you the tools I used to do mine by Wednesday if you need them.

Don't worry, you will get it figured out and never look back...
 
it prolly more than likely that the pump is not at 0* when pinned correct? even though the kid i bought it off of said it is, and mark the guy who might have done the work said he would've lock timed it to zero...but maybe a diff guy worked on it.

I would say that is very likely. Also be certain that you are not 180° out of time. Remember on a 4 stroke engine the piston will be at top dead center a total of two times during one engine cycle.
 
I would say that is very likely. Also be certain that you are not 180° out of time. Remember on a 4 stroke engine the piston will be at top dead center a total of two times during one engine cycle.


Ya when finding TDC make sure both #1 IN/EX vales are loose , Like seting them if one is tight or the other then rotate it, then mark everything balancer, pump gear, pump shaft and I even marked my cover so if I poped the gear and shaft jumped and go back and line the shaft back up thats 90% of problems is the shaft turing when u pop the gear it can go 180 in an instant
 
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