Timing Trouble!!!!!

Instead of removing a valve spring, on #1 intake valve, crank the valve adjustment in like two turns, bar the motor over (gently) until you feel the piston hit the valve (crank will stop turning) then make a mark on the balancer. Back the adjustment off two turns and roll engine past (about two inches from your mark on the balancer ought to work). Crank the adjustment down two tuns again and bar the motor over in the opposite direction (gently) and make a mark. TDC is exactly between your marks. DON'T forget to readjust your valve!
 
yoshi470 said:
Hey thanks for the info guys this will come in handy when i do my p pump swap. Any special place to mark the dampner?
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yes ... you need to mark it where you can see it:lolly:

I lined my timing mark on my damper up with the fan belt. So every other time the damper mark crosses where the belt is thats TDC.
 
i used a dial indicator and deg/timing tape on the balancer.


used the indicator to find the start and end of tdc and the tape to find the center. i have set the timing everywhere form 14deg to 28deg and i still have a haze at idle and a slight rough idle.


one thing i did notice is that there is no spacers between the spring and pin(or what ever you call it) in the dv holder.
 
kalder said:
Instead of removing a valve spring, on #1 intake valve, crank the valve adjustment in like two turns, bar the motor over (gently) until you feel the piston hit the valve (crank will stop turning) then make a mark on the balancer. Back the adjustment off two turns and roll engine past (about two inches from your mark on the balancer ought to work). Crank the adjustment down two tuns again and bar the motor over in the opposite direction (gently) and make a mark. TDC is exactly between your marks. DON'T forget to readjust your valve!
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Even better is put a dial on the valve. You can put it within .0005" of where it was on the other side of TDC, and you can see when the piston touches the valve. I mark the balancer when there is .002" deflection due to the piston hitting the valve. Gotta run the valve down .100", .050" just isn't enough I find. The further down the valve goes, the more accurate you're gonna be, since the more the crank throw moves toward TDC, the piston travel per degree of crank rotation lessens.

I would start suspecting your injectors if timing change isn't fixing it. A timing light would be handy to confirm your readings, but it is only as accurate as your TDC marks.
 
thanks for the help guys....and not to sidetrack but everyone says to get the motor to TDC and then "pin" the pump, how exactly is this done...sorry im new to p pumps and timing..lol
 
On the front of the gov housing, there is a 24mm plug. Take that out, it will drop about a half litre of oil. There is a plastic pin either in the hole or inside the plug (depends where it sticks). With the pin out, bar the engine around. There is a little arm on the camshaft. Once it is centered in the hole (use a mirror), you can flip the pin around (steel bit to the outside) and it will engage the arm. The pump is now pinned, and won't jump around.
 
kalder said:
Instead of removing a valve spring, on #1 intake valve, crank the valve adjustment in like two turns, bar the motor over (gently) until you feel the piston hit the valve (crank will stop turning) then make a mark on the balancer. Back the adjustment off two turns and roll engine past (about two inches from your mark on the balancer ought to work). Crank the adjustment down two tuns again and bar the motor over in the opposite direction (gently) and make a mark. TDC is exactly between your marks. DON'T forget to readjust your valve!
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No telling how many times I've done it this way.

Jim
 
Jim Fulmer said:
No telling how many times I've done it this way.

Jim
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Thanks for the tip guys. I used this technique tonight and it worked very well. I was about to pull out my valvespring compressor tool and decided to try the above method. It worked perfectly. And for accuracy, I pointed the flat screwdriver slot on the adjustable end toward a corner of a head bolt. Made if very easy to set the valve to the same depth for the other side of TDC.

By turning the adjuster in 1.75 turns, I ended up with two marks 28.5mm apart.

This was much easier than fiddling with the valve spring or pulling an injector.
 
you could time it in like i did mine take the glow plug outta number one cylinder and bump the starter till it blows your finger off the hoole and you have your preicise TDC
 
76RT said:
hey it looks like mmomy and daddy bought you a nice truck come on down here to witchita and il show you a idot..beyhaaawww!
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making assumptions i see?? Some of us work hard for what we have
 
76RT said:
you could time it in like i did mine take the glow plug outta number one cylinder and bump the starter till it blows your finger off the hoole and you have your preicise TDC
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cummins 6bt's do not use glow plugs, and if they did how would that be TDC? you finger would start to blow off during compression way before TDC


76RT said:
hey it looks like mmomy and daddy bought you a nice truck come on down here to witchita and il show you a idot..beyhaaawww!
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Really? :umno:
 
76RT said:
you could time it in like i did mine take the glow plug outta number one cylinder and bump the starter till it blows your finger off the hoole and you have your preicise TDC
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:hehe: This has to be a joke.
 
76RT said:
hey it looks like mmomy and daddy bought you a nice truck come on down here to witchita and il show you a idot..beyhaaawww!
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LOL 23 posts in less than an hour...did mommy forget to give you meds?
 
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lets keep it to timing, and not what some kid is rambling about.


tate- that only work when sitting the timing to stock.......and even in that case you run the risk of breaking the plastic pin and it falling in the bottom of them pump. i have seen 2 pumps with half of the plastic tab broken off
 
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