Trailers, the little things

The D-rings are nice but they still won't hold if you hit somthing, i had a 63 vette roadster on the back of a slopeback carhaller and hit a parked semi and it pulled the two rear rings out of the bed, smashed the t-bar into the cab, and sheared off a 2 5/16 ball like it was sawn off with an empty 20ft car trailer. SO BE CAREFUL AND PAY ATTENTION.:bang

Dar
 
They will if you get the correct size. I welded on 1" diameter D rings on my trailer and if they ever come off I am going to be hurting.

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Running boards. You can actually stand on them and open a door on a loaded vehicle and get in. I love them.

I didn't add them, but I requested them when I ordered it. Make is a breeze for us "aging" guys when the wranglers get tight around the butt and we can't jump up 2 foot like we could 10 years ago.


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I am going to bump this back up since we are coming into winter now, I am finally going to get a chance to work on some projects hopefully. So far on my trailer I have added several things, and plans for more over the winter.

D rings 1" as pictured above, still have a few more to add though.

Winch, 17,500# straight line pull

Marine battery to run winch, and charges off of truck when towing

Under body boxes to store chains, binders, straps, etc.

LED lights all the way around, with highest LED count I could find

Work lights on neck, led, run off battery on trailer

Weight box so I do not have to strap weights to the deck

Work light at back of weight box to shine up under truck while loading, run off of battery on trailer


Still to add

Lights in the boxes to see chains and such at night, run off of battery on trailer

Ammo can with toggle switches for truck charge, work lights, box lights, and volt meter for battery

Relocate battery to under side to keep it out of sight and the elements

Add hitch on rear with 7 flat connector

12V outlet on rear of trailer for hazard beacon or flashlight

Maybe back-up lights

Metal plug (tired of breaking the plastic one's)


Anyone have any more ideas or things you have done to make your trailer work better for you.
 
I am hoping to add a grill to our new trailer. Should be nice for those long pulls.

Anyone have ramp ideas? Our new to us trailer has slide in ramps. I don't want to have to take them in and out all the time.
 
Instead of loading and unloading the wieghts at every pull I Leave them on and put jackstands under the wieght bar and chain the weight bar down to the jackstands. It helps when the front of the truck isnt bouncing while loaded on the trailer.
 
HIGH TECH RAM said:
Instead of loading and unloading the wieghts at every pull I Leave them on and put jackstands under the wieght bar and chain the weight bar down to the jackstands. It helps when the front of the truck isnt bouncing while loaded on the trailer.
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We have a trailer jack that attaches to our weight box for this reason too. Saves some stress on the box as well as your back!
 
I have the weights hanging on the uprights. Pull the truck up and all you do is transfer about 3 feet from bar to bar, piece of cake. I like the slide in ramps, they are light and you can use the full deck, don't have to worry about pulling the truck far enough forward to fold the ramps, etc. I am debating a 1500W invertor or just use my 3k generator, and put 110V outlets on each side of the trailer at just under the deck, so you can fire the gen or maybe just use the invertor and plug in at ground level. Plus if I mount the invertor near the truck battery, and then just run a 110V 12 gauge cord versus monster battery cables.
 
@ 145lbs I hate dont like moving 10-104lbs weights. My ramps are wedge style so, If need be I can back onto them allowing for a quad or whatever to be stored infront of the puller.
 
I went to 17.5 tires and wheels on my gooseneck. Stopped alot of the bounce and seems to pull easier with the higher pressure tires.

The cheapest heavy ply 16 I could find was over 150 dollars and it was a piece of crap. I bought these shipped on rims and ended up around 230 apiece for the rims and tires.
 
i am lookin into adding a small crane to the neck of my trailer to pick up motor and other such
 
gwhammy said:
I went to 17.5 tires and wheels on my gooseneck. Stopped alot of the bounce and seems to pull easier with the higher pressure tires.

The cheapest heavy ply 16 I could find was over 150 dollars and it was a piece of crap. I bought these shipped on rims and ended up around 230 apiece for the rims and tires.
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That sounds like a good idea. The only thing I could see being a problem would be on the off chance you need 2 tires on a trip somewhere. The tires may not be easy to find in a pinch.
 
I can use a 16 inch tire and wheel for a spare.Hopefully with 6 new tires and wheels I won't have a problem. I do carry plugs in my truck and the truck has an air compressor with stored air in the bumper. When you run skid loaders and backhoes for a living plugs and air are your best buddy.

One other thing I have on my gooseneck hitch is it has a spring loaded lock so when you drop it on the ball it's locked. I know this doesn't sound like much but I have tore a tail gate off forgetting to lock the hitch. I've had it for several years with no problems.
 
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Here is how I mounted my winch, as mentioned in the cage up front and high braced it good. I addedd "D" rings on each side incase I want to use snatch block.

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If you look hard enough in this picture you can see the winch plug on the rear bumper, just left of the 6" hitch :) I just plug in there so no addtional batteries to maintain.

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Here you can see the "D" rings I added on the back for tieing down the truck, the truck has "D" rings welded on the axle, I cross the straps. You can also see the the lower roller I added for the cable to ride on if needed.

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Here you can see the upper roller, and the diamond plating I added to the under side of the ramps, truck goes on ramps go up truck comes back so mule can go on the front

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Here is how I roll:

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The leading "front" sections of my fenders on my 2007 GatorMade 16+2 Car Hauler developed unacceptable stone chipping, rusting, and flaking.

In March 2010 I decided to strip the fenders down to the bare metal and I purchased a one-quart container of Herculiner and am pleased with the results.

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I have towed well over six or seven thousand miles with it since the Herculiner was applied and it still looks great.
 
That there is a idear, my BP trailer needs re-painted, might just go that way and be done with it for good. Hmm
 
Been looking at that or that bed liner out of a spray can on my trailer, I did the tube fenders on my jeep with it and its holding up well even off road.
 
There is a guy over on 67-72chevytrucks.com that used to haul a stepdeck behind his Pete. He had an individual valve for each airbag on his trailer, so he could "walk" it back into tight spaces. I've never heard of it before, but he explained it real well. Makes sense too.
 
BigBadDodge said:
Here you can see the "D" rings I added on the back for tieing down the truck, the truck has "D" rings welded on the axle, I cross the straps. You can also see the the lower roller I added for the cable to ride on if needed.

Roller_and_D_rings.jpg
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Hey Scott where did you get those rollers??? I need 2 as well for my winch on my goose!
 
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