Turbine Wheel Ex. Housing 101...

97' CTD

97' CTD

FeFiFo-FoFeFeFi
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Jun 4, 2007
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I want to learn more about turbine wheels and their housings, I pretty much have a good idea on the basics but I really want to grasp the whole science of the 2.

I want to know some ups and downs of different options such as what causes surge, what is better for NOS, what is better for quick spool, if u could put a large turbine in a small housing what are the pros and cons, would the shaft speed of the charger stay the same if I went from a small turbine to a big turbin in the same housing would it just flow more exhaust?

Like I said if u have any info or any facts on any thing related to this subject please post some info, I think this will help alot of members gain some knowledge unless I am the only dummy (Good Chance).
Brandon
 
I hardly think you're the only dummy, since I know I am one. The club may be a big one. LOL
 
a bigger turbine wheel will flow more in the same housing. blade pitch and clipping also effects flow and spool.

bigger turbine housing will flow more with the same turbine wheel
 
I see turbochargers much the same as camshaft design. There's alot of bad information out there and some good. Only way to really find out things 100% is try them for yourselves. Just that whole money and time thing that keeps that from happening for most of us:(. Next best thing, find someone who's having good success putting people in the winners circle whip out the plastic and put an order in with all the details of what you want from your truck.

In other word, I don't have any constructive input for this thread:p.

I do think though slippier cartridge sections (ball bearing designs) may help bridge the gap between streetable and huge power in single apps! Tighter housing with external gates sound like the best way to get a large single to work but then there's that whole surge thing. Oh the trials and tribulations lol.
 
Nick, that's exactly how it has to be done... trial and error, standing on the shoulders of others, etc.
 
I have played alittle I ran a .9 then went to a 1.0 and to me noticed a huge difference half track. 74/83 Turbine.
Brandon
 
97' CTD said:
I have played alittle I ran a .9 then went to a 1.0 and to me noticed a huge difference half track. 74/83 Turbine.
Brandon
Click to expand...

Perhaps an external gate would have bridged the gap between last half of the track to the finish with the smaller housing.

I want to get around to wiring up a drive pressure gauge I just haven't had the time. It doesn't sound to me that there's a really full proof way to run one and keep it from freezing up eventually. I think alot can be learned from one. I went from my modified 191 dvs in my truck back to 181s with no changes and noticed about 4 less psi but the truck doesn't seem slower. Only thing I could think is drive pressure increases too much for that extra 4psi of boost with the 191s or my butt dyno is off:doh:
 
NickTF said:
Perhaps an external gate would have bridged the gap between last half of the track to the finish with the smaller housing.

I want to get around to wiring up a drive pressure gauge I just haven't had the time. It doesn't sound to me that there's a really full proof way to run one and keep it from freezing up eventually. I think alot can be learned from one. I went from my modified 191 dvs in my truck back to 181s with no changes and noticed about 4 less psi but the truck doesn't seem slower. Only thing I could think is drive pressure increases too much for that extra 4psi of boost with the 191s or my butt dyno is off:doh:
Click to expand...

I agree 110% my thoughts exactly! I ran a tattle tale on both of my housings and saw no drop in DP, but I often wonder if their was a spike and that spike is what the tattle picked up on.............
45Psi boost to 60lb of DP
I will be running a gate this year :D
Brandon
 
Nick, you can just hook up a gauge to see where you're at. a cheap oil pressure gauge will work fine. Mine would hang up every now and then, but it doesn't damage the gauge, it's just soot clogging the line right at the base.
 
Turbos are like a women, They cost to much, They all blow hot air, They blow up for no reason, I dont understand the first thing about them, But I have to have one!:bang
 
I'll check into the oil pressure gauge idea then. I suppose any fluid pressure gauge will work? I have the ports in Bodie's header ready to go just have to run the lines to a gauge.
 
Nick or anyone else can you walk me through the parts needed to make a DP gauge? I know I have to drill and tap the manifold but from there what do I need?
Pm me please I dont wanna cluster up this thread like ive already done!:bang
 
yeah, I just use copper line from the hardware store. put a few coils in it and run it over to the drivers' firewall corner, union it to nylon going into the cab.
 
Thats how we do it too Buddy. We like 10-15 feet and coil it up around a piece of 2" exhaust pipe. Copper to Nylon, instead of a union we run a small inline 3m filter to keep soot out of the gage.
 
unless there's something wrong w/ the gauge, there's no reason soot should get to it. it's receiving pressure, not flow :D
 
carfichris said:
Thats how we do it too Buddy. We like 10-15 feet and coil it up around a piece of 2" exhaust pipe. Copper to Nylon, instead of a union we run a small inline 3m filter to keep soot out of the gage.
Click to expand...

Thanks Chris, you will have a email tomorrow!
Can a regular boost gauge work?
 
And the answer to soot killing the gauge...... buy a cheap sunpro oil pressure gauge from Auto Zone for 22 bucks. It comes with nylon line, fittings, and even a light for those ambitious guys. I got away with running it on 16" of 1/8" copper tubing and using a brass compression union to transition from copper tubing to nylon. After a week the nylon tubing started to show signs of soot. It worked great for a month and then I removed the whole system as it was using my egt probe hole and I was satisfied with my drive pressure data.

For 22 bucks, how can you go wrong. In fact, no need to run it into the cab, just route it under the back of the hood and slip the gauge under the driver-side wiper blade. Put a little duct tape on the gauge flange to keep it from scratching the glass when you inadvertently hit the wiper on.
 
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