Twin delima....

Spooler

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Aug 13, 2008
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It was looking good to upgrade to a set of twin garrets. GT3788r over a GTX4508r. The cost is tough. Not sure if I should stick with this setup or go for my current single HTT 62/71/13ss over a S478. Funds are not looking good for the Garrett setup. Still need to do springs, studs, upgrade sticks, and CP3 upgrade. That would be an easy 10grand to do a complete upgrade. Any advice? Setup will need to tow heavy.
 
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My same exact dilemma. I just spent over 13k on complete new front end with Carli stuff, SpynTec hubs, Mopar 8.5 + box upgrade, new aluminum driveshafts, complete brake overhaul and kind of tapped out right now. Truck runs like glass down the road though. I am thinking 3788 over 4508. Or 3582 over 4202. Problem is I looked at a set of BW turbos with FMW and the price was not much less surprisingly so why not hold out for the Garrett's? But in the same boat looking at sticks springs studs and twins puts me at around 12k to do it all right. Ouch.
 
Yeap, don't forget the dual pumps. I'll be right at about 10K if I sell my current turbo and manifold. Damn I want them bad...LOL
Got 7K stashed away but not enough for everything....
 
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For heavy towing I would look at a GTX3582R over a GT4202R, with a steed speed and a external gate on the GTX.

I will be seriously considering adding a GT4202R to my GT3782R in the next month with my rebuild.

Fast spool, great airflow and enough air to cool more fuel than the oil/coolant can handle sustained.

The GTX vs GT 3582 may or may not be needed. The GTX has the flow of a 3788 with the spool of a 35, the GT3582R has the same wheel as my GT3782R. In a compound setup that tow's I do wonder if you will be able to tell a difference.
 
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We talking $7k blow money or $7k savings? The reply is obvious depending on the answer. :beer:

Its easy to get caught up in all the high end stuff some people have on here. Go cheap, box borgs, leave some mulla in your pocket. Im assuming this isnt gonna be a comp use truck of course.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
 
For heavy towing I would look at a GTX3582R over a GT4202R, with a steed speed and a external gate on the GTX.

I will be seriously considering adding a GT4202R to my GT3782R in the next month with my rebuild.

Fast spool, great airflow and enough air to cool more fuel than the oil/coolant can handle sustained.

The GTX vs GT 3582 may or may not be needed. The GTX has the flow of a 3788 with the spool of a 35, the GT3582R has the same wheel as my GT3782R. In a compound setup that tow's I do wonder if you will be able to tell a difference.

Precisely what Pat at Big Twin Diesel said would work well for my intended use of the truck. Are those GTX wheels super quiet? Just curious about that since I love to hear the whistle from my GT3782R. I would seriously miss that now I have gotten used to it. Sounds silly but I need to hear that whistle. Well I need the spool up more but here is a question: Will the GTX3582R spool better than the 3782 I have now? I think it could spool better than it does and those guys running the BW S362FMW/.83 are saying they are at 10 psi before 1500 rpm which is spooling up quick. It just seems like the BW turbos move a LOT more air from looking at their compressor maps but the Garretts are supposed to be better? I like them due to the BB and the water cooling plus the cartridges I think are better etc.?

I am just about a second away from calling up Pat and telling him to put me on the build list BUT I really want to clear up these questions first. Cost aside are the Garretts with BB really much better than BW turbos with journal bearings?
 
Not all boost is created equal. Boost is a measure of restriction, and the low restriction turbine of the Garrett's allows for more flow thru the engine which means less boost for a certain lb/min.
 
We talking $7k blow money or $7k savings? The reply is obvious depending on the answer. :beer:

Its easy to get caught up in all the high end stuff some people have on here. Go cheap, box borgs, leave some mulla in your pocket. Im assuming this isnt gonna be a comp use truck of course.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

I am with ya. I may just take and put an S478 under my current setup and call it a day. I may just keep it the way it is.....LOL
 
I think that's what I am going to do. Keep the 3782 on and go ahead and get the 625s and springs done. Do more research and save money to work with. I would really like to pull the motor and do a full rebuild with the good stuff so I am really in between figuring out exactly what I want to do with it.
 
Why are you doing a rebuild?

I suffered oil pump housing failure. Not sure if it's the chicken or the egg at this point, but lots if shavings thru the oil. I was in the middle of nowhere (mountains, and extreme backcountry) and had to run it for 45 minutes with a whine. It still ran, with good pressure but without taking it apart I have no clue what was done to the bearings.
 

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I suffered oil pump housing failure. Not sure if it's the chicken or the egg at this point, but lots if shavings thru the oil. I was in the middle of nowhere (mountains, and extreme backcountry) and had to run it for 45 minutes with a whine. It still ran, with good pressure but without taking it apart I have no clue what was done to the bearings.

OUCH!!!! at least you got home.
 
That just got me to elk camp, it was a 255 mile tow to Big Twin Diesel (65 of which was dirt).
 
OUCH. That would completely freak me out. No choice but to pull the engine and do a full rebuild. Strange and your maintenance is impeccable.
 
Yeah, so why bother maintaining the thing when it's just gonna fail!!

I might as well make the best of it...

Marine Pistons/Injectors
110# springs
push rods
balanced assembly
new water pump
rebuild the alternator and starter
little different cam maybe?
steed speed maybe?
numerous other little things...
 
I suffered oil pump housing failure. Not sure if it's the chicken or the egg at this point, but lots if shavings thru the oil. I was in the middle of nowhere (mountains, and extreme backcountry) and had to run it for 45 minutes with a whine. It still ran, with good pressure but without taking it apart I have no clue what was done to the bearings.

You don't think the oil filter caught the shavings that were headed for the bearings?
 
The main oil filter not able to capture anything under 20 micron or something like that? Unless there was a bypass filter most likely some small particles may have gotten by.
 
I think it caught a lot of them, but I don't think it caught them all, at least not enough to load the family up and head 70 miles back into the boonies and have a bearing fail.

The biggest particles were caught, but the main wear causing particles are generally 5-8um and the meshing of gearing and rubbing of gears was filing the pieces so there are an immense amount of small particles. The oil filter I run has the best flow/filtration ratings of any ISB full flow. It's 15um absolute (98.7%) and 7um at 59%. Anyhow oil filters are muti-pass rated, so particles got thru and how many and what damage was done cannot be known until it's out. I also have a 2um bypass, but that only filters 10% of the oil at a time and is there to polish the oil, not prevent big particles from going thru. The oil filter did catch a LOT of materiel, but how many tries did it take? The filters job is to catch normal wear and tear particles, not a rapid influx of small failure materiel. If the filter did it's job then the block will be fine and just new bearings are all that's needed.

The motor ran for at least 45 minutes after the oil pump housing failed, but with the road conditions being noisy it could have been longer. The metal materiel in the filter had a steel and copper tinge to it. It's prudent to tank the motor and replace all the bearings, so really the only added work is the machine/balance work and might as well with it apart. I'll upgrade the pistons/nozzles/cam/springs/pushrods, but otherwise it's just an extensive inspection.
 
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I suffered oil pump housing failure. Not sure if it's the chicken or the egg at this point, but lots if shavings thru the oil. I was in the middle of nowhere (mountains, and extreme backcountry) and had to run it for 45 minutes with a whine. It still ran, with good pressure but without taking it apart I have no clue what was done to the bearings.

What is the line across the bottom of that chunk?

From my Not-So-Smart phone
 
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