Using compressed air to aid spooling of big singles.

Dumping the air would just be taking heat energy away from the exhaust correct? Especially dumping co2 or nitrogen.
 
They why I am figuring is that its going to come into play why before we have to worry about heat energy. I have seen it done on small turbine engine and have one setup myself. I have also found some done on very large diesels in the marine industry. I am going to plumb a small orfice that is very close to the turbine wheel so that it hits the very tip of the wheel that well it makes the most good of the stored energy. PS a turbine sounds amazing when this is done and I think its going to turn some heads with a very short exhaust like a hood stack.
 
what would happen if you put the compress air into the intake system?
 
From what I can figure from a numbers stand point is that you can't store enough air to put it into the intake. That and if the charger is not up to speed in the map you will just bark the turbo and all the air you want in the engine just went back out the intank make sense.
 
If I look at it like its a compressor setup twins and large single's do a very good job at moving alot of air at a moderate pressure. Thats why I plan on using high press as the higher the pressure the more energy I have stored vs low pressure high volume. I have an exhaust housing I plan on drilling and welding on and I will post pics of how its going to look so as to help you guys out what I am doing.
 
Sorry about the spelling and grammar guys last night was a long one and the head can't keep up with the fingers:)
 
From what I can figure from a numbers stand point is that you can't store enough air to put it into the intake. That and if the charger is not up to speed in the map you will just bark the turbo and all the air you want in the engine just went back out the intank make sense.

Now I got it!
 
With the way that this is going to be setup I am actually worried about breaking the turbo shaft. It is going to make it come up to speed like a raped ape, so I might have to pin the nut and compressor wheel like CDS does on there super farm turbos. But man will it sound cool. I just got to figure out how to tune this ppump for it. Will the afc keep up with the rate of change of boost. Any help and advice with this parts will greatly be accepted.
 
With the way that this is going to be setup I am actually worried about breaking the turbo shaft. It is going to make it come up to speed like a raped ape, so I might have to pin the nut and compressor wheel like CDS does on there super farm turbos. But man will it sound cool. I just got to figure out how to tune this ppump for it. Will the afc keep up with the rate of change of boost. Any help and advice with this parts will greatly be accepted.

Do like every other puller and take the arm out of the afc and also ditch the fuel plate...with a large charger you will want all the fuel you can get...if you don't already have you will need some large injectors, full cut dv's along with some other pump tweaking and tuning

If you fill in your sig we will have a better idea what you are working with:poke:
 
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take the arm out of the afc and also ditch the fuel plate
If you fill in your sig we will have a better idea what you are working with:poke:

Will it rev like this is my question. Can I just sit there at say 4000 with it not making any real boost and then hit the button and POW:charger: the charger comes alive like*nx*. Or will it miss and break up on its way to 4000 like the pullers do. This truck is a stone stock 96 2wd with a 180 pump. I am doing it as an exp and its not going in my sig. Kinda a joint venture between my brother and I.
 
Alright let me ask the question like this. If I pull the charger off of the truck after it has pump mods, injectors, studs, all the little things it takes to make big power, will it rev up or will it miss and stutter?
 
Do like every other puller and take the arm out of the afc and also ditch the fuel plate...with a large charger you will want all the fuel you can get...if you don't already have you will need some large injectors, full cut dv's along with some other pump tweaking and tuning

If you fill in your sig we will have a better idea what you are working with:poke:


The AFC can be very useful in spooling a charger. With my setup, if I mash it to the floor it will NOT light the charger. I have to bring the fuel back to get the charger lit.
 
I understand that Zstroken, but will the engine rev and sit on the gov springs is what I need to know. I want to put a single charger so big on that will not lite. Say for max cfm/psi at said rpm then I will blast the turbine with compressed air so that it spools almost instantly and bingo away we go. If the truck just will miss and break up then I need to use the AFC and tune it if it will keep up with the rate of change. Am I making any sense?
 
The AFC can be very useful in spooling a charger. With my setup, if I mash it to the floor it will NOT light the charger. I have to bring the fuel back to get the charger lit.

I didn't say or mean that^^^ with the afc removed and along with the proper pump mods the fuel is all in the pedal and the driver has total control of turbo spool...it does take some fuel to light a large charger

Alright let me ask the question like this. If I pull the charger off of the truck after it has pump mods, injectors, studs, all the little things it takes to make big power, will it rev up or will it miss and stutter?

If the pump is tuned and timed properly the engine will rev freely without boost...it will just be smokey 'til the boost comes up
 
Thanks Dragnsled thats what I needed to know I figured maybe it would. Since this truck is a 2wd I am thinking that its going to be a fun one for the track. I want to hook up the air to aid the spool like a 2step on a gas motor so that I can time it from the first yellow lite on the tree. So you stage mash the pedal let the smoke pour while sitting on conveter as with no boost it will never make enough power to slip the tranny. Then the first yellow drops and you let of the button and hang on and wait. Should be fun or at least break some stuff:evil:evil:evil plus if this works it might save some money with laughing gas.
 
If your going to ruin a turbine housing by drilling and tapping a hole in it, you might as well do it on the inducer side of the turbine wheel. Good luck, I'm not saying it will work, but you never know.

I think thats the plan...at least the way understood it...I just wanna know how it works LOL
 
I found a large Cat turbo that a buddy had hiding. It was on a twin 3412 anybody want to take a guess at what this is it doesn't have any tags on it. Its a split housing so I planned on drilling right down the center at the end od the tang on an angle to inpart the most force on the wheel tips. Worst thing I can see happening is when that cold air hits the wheel. These things go through such a wide temp swing so it might handle it. Oh well out one junk turbo.
 
I found a large Cat turbo that a buddy had hiding. It was on a twin 3412 anybody want to take a guess at what this is it doesn't have any tags on it. Its a split housing so I planned on drilling right down the center at the end od the tang on an angle to inpart the most force on the wheel tips. Worst thing I can see happening is when that cold air hits the wheel. These things go through such a wide temp swing so it might handle it. Oh well out one junk turbo.

I like this one:hehe:

That'a Boy!!!!!
Carnage is a Good thing!!!!!:rockwoot:
Go big or go home!

:rockwoot::rockwoot::rockwoot:
 
Thanks for the moral support. I really enjoyed breaking parts when I was in my teens and I have a buddy that has saved every freaking turbo he has come across. If this works though I am going to put together a bare bones kit that is cheap and effective.
 
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