Water Injection Systems???

XLR8R said:
Just the nozzles or the whole nozzle assembly, ready to screw into the bungs?
Push-locks on top? - or NPT, 37*JIC, 45*SAE or inverted flare? Our push-lock tubing is rated to ~350psi.

I prefer spraying the runners (if you have them) because of the ability for cylinder EGT tuning.
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Ready to screw into the bungs.\
I think I would prefer NPT or 37* Jic.

What pressure do you recomend?
 
You need enough pressure to finely atomize the water... hydraulic pumps already have high pressure accompanying their high volume, and that pressure is likely needed with the type of nozzles they have to supply.

We use orifices with micron-rated droplet sizes at 100psi @ rated flow, so there's no need for such high injection pressures... it just usually comes with the (pump) territory.

IMO a high-volume medium pressure (250-350psi) pump makes the most sense when matched to appropriate nozzles.
 
im thinking or putting a system together.

if I inject it into my intake horn since it already has 5 NPT bungs on it..how many nozzles are needed since its all coming from one location?

mine is just a 2.6 truck that hits brush pulls but i wanna keep things cool. also, how do you set the system up to activate? just use a boost switch to turn it on?
 
I think many people are getting hung up on the number of nozzles.

First thing you need to ask is how much water do I need? A good 3.0-up truck is going to need about 1 quart of water in a run. Then you need to set up the system to spray that amount of water. I would run as few nozzles as possible to keep things that can go wrong down. The more parts you have the more potential for trouble you have.

As far as activation a simple boost switch will work but is tricky to get set right. If the water comes on to early it will put the fire out and you will snuff the charger.
 
well i have just a 2.6 truck thats seeing 1500* ont he highway on a WOT all out run but it never clears the smoke, i think its overfueled enough that its keeping it a little cooler right now. what wrong with setting the boost switch to come on at like 35-40psi, i shouldn't snuff a 2.6 charger once im spooled as long as the amount of water is right.
 
XLR8R said:
You need enough pressure to finely atomize the water... hydraulic pumps already have high pressure accompanying their high volume, and that pressure is likely needed with the type of nozzles they have to supply.

We use orifices with micron-rated droplet sizes at 100psi @ rated flow, so there's no need for such high injection pressures... it just usually comes with the (pump) territory.

IMO a high-volume medium pressure (250-350psi) pump makes the most sense when matched to appropriate nozzles.
Click to expand...

Wonder what the flow is when you have 80 psi or more boost pressure with 100 psi system pressure???
 
... likely not much more than a dribble (flow won't change dramatically, but atomization would be in the toilet).

You need a minimum of 100psi pump overhead (not 100psi absolute system pressure) for a nozzle rated at 100psi to deliver flow quality according to design spec.
 
XLR8R said:
The 12-runner manifold is currently set up with a set of nozzles that add up to ~7.5gph... hoping the Shurflo is enough to keep them from dribbling!
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Ok I did some math and this is what I figure:

7.5 gph = 28,380cc per hour
28,380/12=2,365 per nozzle
2,365/60=39.4cc per min per nozzle
39.4/4=9.85cc per 15sec per nozzle

So in an average pull that lasts roughly 15 seconds you will use 118.2cc's of water over the 12 nozzles at 9.85cc each. The most I have seen out of a Shurflo pump is 250 psi at that pressure a .022 hole will flow 110cc per 15 seconds.

Those are some small nozzles, where did you get them?
 
I need to find out what the flow rate is for a 150psi Shurflo (think that's what the Snow kit has)... pretty sure I ordered the smallest jets available, figuring on using my orifice drill to open them up as needed with a better pump, or to tune for individual cylinder EGTs.
 
When trying to tune the individual cylinder EGT's do you plan on swapping probes from cylinder to cylinder to test for differences in probes?
 
No, we've never seen enough of a difference to warrant that... it's not like we're shooting for NIST-quality data! :hehe:

Besides, it's much easier to test them at operating temperature with a digital pyrometer - we have been known to do that. :owned:

Type K probes in good working order can vary ~ 25*F.
 
It has been awhile I have to go back to some notes it won't be tonight.Will try to find out as soon as possible.

Dale
 
Got my pump and regulator today...

Now I'm looking for info on what kind of nozzles to run. I figure two nozzles in the intake to start with. Hollow cone, flat cone, what style? To get 1 quart / 15 seconds (which is 60 gal/hr), I would need two 30 gal/hr nozzles equivalent to 0.5 gal/min or 1 oz/sec or 31.5 cc/sec (however they are rated).

I'd like to size the nozzles for this flow at around 1000 psi and then regulate the pressure down if it's too much water. Much easier/quicker to adjust the regulator than to swap out nozzles...
 
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